Yikes... spiked ~12 psi on my stock FD, why the boost spike?
12-24-07, 09:54 PM
#1
Yikes... spiked ~12 psi on my stock FD, why the boost spike?
Hey guys,
This past weekend I was messing with my turbo system- testing the solenoids. And I had to install turbo control pills- accidentally chucked them in my old lines
So anyways, I drive the car around, warm it up, and give it some gas and it HITS, NICE!! not really... it hits 11.5-10 psi and then just bleeds bleeds bleeds. Ok, I did this 2 more times to confirm it (which was VERY stupid on my part) and then came home, idled it, and shut it off.
*Note- I had BOTH of my pressure chambers (the one that sits right in front of the intake mani and the one behind the PS pump) off, could this be why?
Start it up again... drive it around, accelerate a bit to pass someone up, hitting about 5 psi and BAM! it felt like the engine just hit a wall?! Do it a few more times, same thing, yeah...
Now my pressure chambers are hooked up, but I'm scared shitless that it's going to hit 12 psi and blow up
A few notes-
-Turbo control pills are installed correctly, got them from Ihor with them installed in the lines already
-Rebuilt/streetported- 3k miles
-Downpipe, hose tech. vac lines, FC rad switch, New pd, silicone coolant lines, pretty much all reliability mods.
I honestly don't care about getting 10 psi, this is my cruiser car, I could care less about getting max boost. I just want my secondary to come online and the car to boost properly, which it doesn't, even after replacing the solenoid on the rats nest. Shoot, I'd be down for 8 psi... Should I just get an MBC and 'tune' it?
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
This past weekend I was messing with my turbo system- testing the solenoids. And I had to install turbo control pills- accidentally chucked them in my old lines
So anyways, I drive the car around, warm it up, and give it some gas and it HITS, NICE!! not really... it hits 11.5-10 psi and then just bleeds bleeds bleeds. Ok, I did this 2 more times to confirm it (which was VERY stupid on my part) and then came home, idled it, and shut it off.*Note- I had BOTH of my pressure chambers (the one that sits right in front of the intake mani and the one behind the PS pump) off, could this be why?
Start it up again... drive it around, accelerate a bit to pass someone up, hitting about 5 psi and BAM! it felt like the engine just hit a wall?! Do it a few more times, same thing, yeah...
Now my pressure chambers are hooked up, but I'm scared shitless that it's going to hit 12 psi and blow up
A few notes-
-Turbo control pills are installed correctly, got them from Ihor with them installed in the lines already
-Rebuilt/streetported- 3k miles
-Downpipe, hose tech. vac lines, FC rad switch, New pd, silicone coolant lines, pretty much all reliability mods.
I honestly don't care about getting 10 psi, this is my cruiser car, I could care less about getting max boost. I just want my secondary to come online and the car to boost properly, which it doesn't, even after replacing the solenoid on the rats nest. Shoot, I'd be down for 8 psi... Should I just get an MBC and 'tune' it?
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
12-24-07, 11:57 PM
#3
Well I actually had the one in front of the intake mani because I cracked the nipple installing it, so I had to reattach the nipple and let the epoxy dry. The other one behind the PS pump has NEVER been on, because when I rebuilt my engine, I forgot to shove it in there, and I didn't feel like taking off all that crap to put it on, but I finally did route it right under the stock intake elbow. So now that they're back on, should I try things out?
Well, I'll do a quick full-boost run and *hope* I don't hit 12 psi. Merry Christmas guys! Thanks!
12-26-07, 10:54 AM
#10
Well with the boost pills out (how I originally had it), I was only boosting 7 psi, and I guess I have to run 8 psi or more (according to the site AHarada) to operate the secondary turbo actuators.
And under the 'Symptoms' section, this caught my eye:
Primary turbo- Solid 12 psi Primary and Secondary- 5 psi or less
Check- One of the vacuum hoses connected to the pressure tank, pressure tank chack valve, or hose between turbo and check valve. They will come off again unless the hose is replaced or zip-tie it at both ends.
Err, but now I have to track down whatever is making me hit that wall now...
And under the 'Symptoms' section, this caught my eye:
Primary turbo- Solid 12 psi Primary and Secondary- 5 psi or less
Check- One of the vacuum hoses connected to the pressure tank, pressure tank chack valve, or hose between turbo and check valve. They will come off again unless the hose is replaced or zip-tie it at both ends.
Err, but now I have to track down whatever is making me hit that wall now...
12-26-07, 10:58 AM
#11
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If you are not Non-Sequential then you need your tanks. IMHO no one should work on these cars until they have a good understanding of how everything works. These cars do not have a buffer zone. In other words if you do something wrong, 9 times out of 10 it is going to do some harm.
I did hours of reading and research before I converted to non-sequential especially because I kept all the emissions stuff and I found no write ups on going non-Seq while keeping all emissions stuff.
Good luck and don't be afraid to post questions you may have before doing something. There are lots of people on here with great knowledge who are always more than happy to lend a hand. Majhik and dgeesaman come to mind.
12-26-07, 11:03 AM
#12
+1!!!
If you are not Non-Sequential then you need your tanks. IMHO no one should work on these cars until they have a good understanding of how everything works. These cars do not have a buffer zone. In other words if you do something wrong, 9 times out of 10 it is going to do some harm.
I did hours of reading and research before I converted to non-sequential especially because I kept all the emissions stuff and I found no write ups on going non-Seq while keeping all emissions stuff.
Good luck and don't be afraid to post questions you may have before doing something. There are lots of people on here with great knowledge who are always more than happy to lend a hand. Majhik and dgeesaman come to mind.
If you are not Non-Sequential then you need your tanks. IMHO no one should work on these cars until they have a good understanding of how everything works. These cars do not have a buffer zone. In other words if you do something wrong, 9 times out of 10 it is going to do some harm.
I did hours of reading and research before I converted to non-sequential especially because I kept all the emissions stuff and I found no write ups on going non-Seq while keeping all emissions stuff.
Good luck and don't be afraid to post questions you may have before doing something. There are lots of people on here with great knowledge who are always more than happy to lend a hand. Majhik and dgeesaman come to mind.
Thanks. I'm definitely a noobie to how all the solenoids/lines/tanks interact with each other. I built my motor (with the help of a friend) and assembled the whole longblock, but minor things like this (well, not so minor anymore, heh) always get me, and these are the things that'll make her pop 
12-26-07, 12:42 PM
#13
Have you tried it without the boost pills, I have also heard of the no 8si no secondary transition. However, every car I have ever owned that has been sequential(not alot but still a decent amount) and none have ever had a problem with the boost pills removed with the sequential system.
12-26-07, 11:12 PM
#14
Yeah, that's how I originally had it, and it was boosting 7 psi. I'll report back to you guys once I get some time to take the FD down for a day and check the intercooler couplings for a leak. I think it might also be my Y pipe, where they connect at the center, but what seals the Y pipe there? An o-ring?
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