Would you say these cracks are beyond repair? (Pics)
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,849
Received 2,612 Likes
on
1,852 Posts
simple answer: yes
complex answer, either no or it doesnt matter. is that the wategate? arent you trying to make it bigger anyways? what does the turbo to manifold flange look like?
mike
complex answer, either no or it doesnt matter. is that the wategate? arent you trying to make it bigger anyways? what does the turbo to manifold flange look like?
mike
#6
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,849
Received 2,612 Likes
on
1,852 Posts
Originally posted by pp13bnos
That is the wastegate. Here is a totaly differnt picture. This one is about 14mm long.
That is the wastegate. Here is a totaly differnt picture. This one is about 14mm long.
mike
#7
There and back again
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Camarillo, Ca
Posts: 967
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your tubos look almost new in comparison to the two sets I have. I am on the same boat, only my original turbos are most likely the worst set in the history of FD.
Trending Topics
#9
Sounds good to me!
My wastegate housing does'nt want to seperate from the turbo. I removed all the 10mm bolts, but the thing still seems pretty much stuck in there. Should i keep taping it with a rubber hammer or something? I'd just hate to break anything....well anything else.....
CJ
My wastegate housing does'nt want to seperate from the turbo. I removed all the 10mm bolts, but the thing still seems pretty much stuck in there. Should i keep taping it with a rubber hammer or something? I'd just hate to break anything....well anything else.....
CJ
#10
Money Pit
iTrader: (1)
Yep, typical Mazda Hitachi turbo housings. If you're on a budget I'd keep running them. You might not notice much of a difference at all, but I'd start saving for a replacement. Probably still get 25-40k miles out of em', depending on your driving habits. Might help if you don't have the stock pre-cat too. If it is any consolation, you are not the only one running housings in that conditon, in fact, I'd bet that 60% if the people out there on stock turbos with over 30k miles are in the same condition, if not worse!
Best of luck!
Frank
Best of luck!
Frank
#11
My driving habits I drive the car about 1k miles at most a year....and most of those miles are on the way to the track. Or pretty much full throttle from every stop sign on a back road. I take good care of the car, but I drive it fairly hard. If the motor lets go, it would'nt make me upset, but it would'nt make me happy. Lets just say, I'm not worried about it. CJ
#12
There and back again
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Camarillo, Ca
Posts: 967
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just ordered this stuff today, Aremco 2400-k cast iron repair putty good for temps up to 2000 degrees.
aremco link
I spoke with them to make sure this stuff would hold up to the beatings of hot turbos and David (sales guy) assured me that the 2400-K was specifically designed for uses with cast iron turbo housings. Sold. I'll let you know how it goes. I will be drilling and grinding out the cracks on my good set (similar to your condition) as well as port out the wastegate and clean up the overall track.
aremco link
I spoke with them to make sure this stuff would hold up to the beatings of hot turbos and David (sales guy) assured me that the 2400-K was specifically designed for uses with cast iron turbo housings. Sold. I'll let you know how it goes. I will be drilling and grinding out the cracks on my good set (similar to your condition) as well as port out the wastegate and clean up the overall track.
#13
Money Pit
iTrader: (1)
Well then, I say run em'! As far as seperating the turbine housing from the turbine canister, just keep tapping it with a mallet, just try to hold it in such a way so that the 2 pieces don't go flying all over the place, it will come apart. Again, best of luck.
Frank
Edit:
Might actually need a hammer, something to shock the housings well enough, a mallet may not have enough shock value to seperate them. IIRC, that is exactly what I had to do. Just tap, not rap.
Frank
Edit:
Might actually need a hammer, something to shock the housings well enough, a mallet may not have enough shock value to seperate them. IIRC, that is exactly what I had to do. Just tap, not rap.
Last edited by Flyrx7; 09-09-02 at 10:36 PM.