Ok I'm looking to do some upgrades with my FD. I already have all the bolt ons except an ECU and midpipe, so basically the question is, I may look to find an ECU for couple hundred bucks. I'm guessing the Pettit ECU would be best as I'm just going to keep my stock twins and raise the boost couple of psi.

Along with the ECU, I'd pickup a midpipe, but my question is, which would be best? I know when I had my 8, I got a supercat, but for the FD, do you think I should go with just a straight through midpipe? (Car was just smogged but I'm still keeping stock midpipe for when I need to smog next)

The other option would be upgrading suspension. This is a daily driver and I already have Tokico shocks so I'm looking at just springs. What I'm looking for is that low aggressive stance, but also for it to be evenly lowered all around (at this time, my front is really low for some reason compared to the rear) Springs I've done research on are the Tein S.techs which are the cheapest, then suggestions on the H&R and Eibach springs saying that they have low drops.

Last but not least, with just ECU/midpipe combo, is there really a big different. Basically I'll be spending around $500 for the ECU/midpipe combo and I'm just wondering if you can really feel the power difference?

 

You will definitely feel a difference with a midpipe and ecu especially. With the increased boost your looking at 30-40whp difference. Its been proven.

If are interested i have a rx7store.net 3" SS midpipe in perfect condition. PM me

 

You will gain quite a bit of horsepower, along with lots of noise and stinky exhaust fumes . If you want to cut down on the noise, get the rx7store resonated midpipe that has a magnaflow muffler welded in. Works very good in my car, cuts down the noise so I can at least drive around town without pissing off every one within 500 yards.

The main concern for you will be tuning, and boost creep. You will almost definitely need your wastegate ported, which is a pricey affair because your turbos have to come off.

Do a search for 'boost creep' and 'ported wastegate' for more info.

 

The only thing I'm worried about is the exhaust sounded like crap. Right now I have an HKS downpipe and RB dual exhaust and I love the low note of the exhaust. I remember when I had my 8 and added the supercat and greddy exhaust, it sounded nice below 3-4k and then around that it turned really really raspy and sounded like *** for the 1-1.5k. I don't mind having it loud as I usually keep my shifts around 3-3.5k when driving around town and keep out of boost, I just don't want the exhaust tone to sound like crap if I add this midpipe.

Is it okay to run an piggy ecu/midpipe and not have a ported wastegate? I know about the boost creep, but if I don't get on it that much until I get a ported wastegate, I should be safe right?

 

What's the point of putting the midpipe on if you can't "get on it"? If you don't want to deal with restrictor plates or porting the wastegate, then just put the Pettit ecu in with the stock cat in. It's not like you can't make a nice upgrade in power running 12 psi or so with the stock cat still in place.

 

I'm not saying I will never port the wastegate, I'm just saying staying off it until I get it ported.

Is there any difference between stainless steel and ceramic coating?

Also, I don't think I can get Pettit ECU because it's tuned for 93 octane? In CA here we run on 91 octane.

 

I am telling you, if you must get a midpipe, get the resonated one. You will get all the flow/power (and boost creep) of a regular midpipe but won't deal with the crazy high decibels.

You won't be able to rev beyond 6000 rpms or so if you keep your wastegate stock. Basically, you're flirting with a blown motor, esp on 91 octane **** water.

You don't need to worry about ceramic coating the midpipe, it's too far downstream to matter. Go with s/s.

 

Well I'm just asking about ceramic coating because I have a friend who is going to sell me a ceramic coated midpipe for less than $100 but then I have another guy who has a SS midpipe for a little more so I'm just wondering which would be best.

I never really reach redline on my FD, but I'll be looking into how much porting wastegate is going to be.

 

Why do you never redline your FD? That's like buying a miata and never dropping the top. Like owning an AR-15 and never going full auto.

Porting the w/g includes a turbo R&R, which is about 6 hrs at most shops. You are probably looking at 600-700$ labor. You seem to be ignoring my advice about the resonated midpipe, you'll see what I mean either the easy way or the hard way

 

No, I'm not trying to ignore you at all, with a resonated midpipe you will still still get boost creep correct?

The only thing the resonated midpipe in comparison to a straight through is noise level correct?

I appreciate you helping me

 

You are correct on both counts. Honestly man, you will probably be happier with the suspension mods, or keep the stock main cat and get an Apexi Power FC and Commander.

 

Rich is definately right. I would make fun of him for years for his loud raspy exhaust untill he finally put on a resonated midpipe. With the full exhaust and straight midpipe combo these cars are too loud and sound like *** in my opinion. There is no reason for a street car to be that loud. Personally, I would leave the stock cat on for the time being untill you can do something about the wastegate porting. I would skip the Pettit ecu for your case and go with a Power FC, which you will be able to have tuned for the 91 octane gas. The Pettit runs too much timing for 91 octane. As for your ride height problem, look at your upper mounts when you do the springs. The stock rubber gets old and compresses. If they are in poor shape or the boots are torn order replacements from Malloy Mazda. Don't forget about the rubber insulator that sits between the spring and the perch on the shock. The combination of both of those can make the car sit too low and cause all sorts of rubbing problems.

 

What about a hi flow cat? Like the one from Rotary Performance.

 

A midpipe doesn't guarantee uncontrollable boost (some people get boost creep, some people don't). However, you should be aware of the possibilty so you can monitor your boost readings should you install a midpipe.

That being said, how do you make a FI car faster? Increase the CFM (i.e. larger turbo and/or more boost) and the accompaning fuel.

 

Alright, well I think that since funds is not avaliable to port the wastegate and do midpipe/ecu together, it's be safer to do suspension, so now to repeat my suspension questions...

This is a daily driver and I already have Tokico shocks so I'm looking at just springs. What I'm looking for is that low aggressive stance, but also for it to be evenly lowered all around (at this time, my front is really low for some reason compared to the rear) Springs I've done research on are the Tein S.techs which are the cheapest, then suggestions on the H&R and Eibach springs saying that they have low drops.

Now in response to Rotary Extreme Seven's post, how do I go about checking my upper mounts and if that is the problem, what would be the costs in ordering all new rubber/getting installed?

 

IMO, RSR Race Springs are the spring of choice right now. Had they been available when I got my Tein S-Tech's, that's what I would have gotten.

 

For your WG issue, why not install a high-flow cat instead of the MP? I have a Bonez 3", and have no creep/spiking issues whatsoever. Also running the Pettit ECU. Sure, it doesnt flow quite as well as a MP, but its not a huge difference at all,few HP at best. You can still be legal, not as loud, and not have the smell issues associated with the MP.

As for the suspension, as Mahjik said, RSR race springs are great. I love my RSR/Koni setup. Running 265/35R18s up front with no rubbing issues at all, car stays flat and controlled. They are a bit on the stiff side though, you can really feel imperfections in the road.

 

That's the thing, I don't need something that's going to be really really stiff, like I said, it is a daily driver and am not going to bring it to the track or anything.

RXmfn7 you have any pics of ur car? I see it a little in your avatar

 

Yes, here are some pics, you can see the stance of the RSR springs.

 

If you lower the car, you need a stiffer spring. If not, the car will bottom out on bumps/dips in the road. So, the lower the spring, typically the stiffer the spring rate.

 

teins are the lowest and stiffest ride right?

 

RSR Race Springs are a little stiffer of the bunch. If ride quality is going to be a problem, get the H&R springs.