FCNAred

iTrader: (2)

I just installed a new motor for a friend of mine. By new, i mean NEW NEW from mazda (not reman). We installed an SR motorsports flywheel, ACT heavy duty pressure plate (came with exedy disc). It all fired up right away and ran great.

Problems #1:
When we first got her going, we found the slave was bad. The car could be moved forward and reverse if you pumped the pedal a couple times to build pressure enough to get it into gear. He ordered a new slave and has his friend's uncle or something install it. After that, it won't go into ANY gear while idling.

I went up there today top make sure the fluid had been bleed and the fork hadn't popped off etc etc
everything seems fine, but it seems like the clutch isn't disengaging. I can see it moving to disengage, but it seems like it isn't. This does NOT manifest itself as grinding into gear, but as the car not going into gear at all. If you start the car while in gear even with the clutch down it will lurch forward (or backward).

I tried and double checked everything, even ran it with the rear on jackstands but no luck. It seems to me like the pilot bearing might be siezed, but it was a fresh one that came with the motor installed at mazda. i plan to drop the trans early this week but any ideas before i go that far would be helpful.

Problems #2:
the temp on the powerFC reads fine when its all the way cold, as it warms up however, it will never get above 25C, even when the car is obviously fully warmed and thus the fans don't come on and it doesn't get out of fast idle. He has a defi water temp gauge which seems to be accurate but for the life of me i can't figure out why the power FC is reading funny.

Here is the weird part, they match when its fully cold. When the car warms up to 90C or so the powerFC will say around 24 or 25. After letting it cool down more, the power FC will read 55-56 while the temp gauge reads 60-70, but as soon as you start the car and the temp starts climbing again it drops steadily back DOWN to ~25C.

I am inclined to think that its a bad section in the harness as his was extra crispy, or the sensor went bad. Unfortunely "it worked before (I) changed the motor, so why would it just go bad now?" what would be the best course of action? replace the sensor(s), or check resistance to find the bad section of the harness, or both? Any other ideas are appreciated

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Problem #1:

Could be one of two problems:

a) The clutch disc could be in backwards
b) You need to keep bleeding the clutch to get pressure back into the system. Power Bleeders work well for this sort of thing (or you can also try to bleed the brakes to help build pressure since they share the same reservoir).

RX7turboracerX

problem 1: Haven't encountered this exact situation but I will go with Mahjik and say you clutch disc is on backwards. Only other things that make since would be your pilot bearing is locked up, throw-out bearing has gave in, or the shift fork is off but you said you already checked the ladder out. Mahjik is also right that you might not have pressure in your master cylinder, try to bleed it and the brakes.
problem 2: use a digital multimeter and test the resistance on the harness because that could be it, but more likely is a bad sensor (erratic reading would be caused by a bad sensor or sender unit more likely than the harness itself being at fault).

Dave