Wondering about my cooling system
05-11-11, 01:01 PM
#26
What do you gain forcing the car to run that cool when there is no danger running the car warmer? IMO, you are just running the fans when it's not required creating additional wear on them which will lower their lifetime for no real benefit. The fans should only be needed to keep the car from overheating.
Why does it not help to turn on the fans sooner than 95?
05-11-11, 01:31 PM
#27
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What do you gain forcing the car to run that cool when there is no danger running the car warmer? IMO, you are just running the fans when it's not required creating additional wear on them which will lower their lifetime for no real benefit. The fans should only be needed to keep the car from overheating.
Based off that, and rereading https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/big-fat-fd3s-cooling-thread-571088/ , maybe there is still some air in the system? Since my fans are at 84/85 when my car is in the garage it doesn't go higher than 85, so the t-stat isn't fully open. I can easily change the fan temps, add some water & reburp to make sure t-stat is fully open and everything is moving, then drive and observe the temps going forward.
05-11-11, 02:30 PM
#30
One day last summer I got stuck on the turnpike for a full hour. It was june so it was HOT. Probably like 92 degrees and it was dead stop. Im talking about took 1 full hour to go 2 miles distance. I had the fans running the entire time. Never went above 200f.
05-11-11, 02:43 PM
#31
...Based off that, and rereading https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=571088 , maybe there is still some air in the system?...
Do you hear boiling at all when you shut down?
05-11-11, 05:27 PM
#33
I'm putting money on a defected t-stat. Nothing else that you have mentioned should cause your problems.
Also, I would NEVER let my FD reach 115degrees C. Especially if someone is running around 70/30 mix even with a higher pressure cap that is too much.
I personally start to do cool down laps when/if I reach 105celsius. And my original motor still sings after 4 years of track abuse.
Also, I would NEVER let my FD reach 115degrees C. Especially if someone is running around 70/30 mix even with a higher pressure cap that is too much.
I personally start to do cool down laps when/if I reach 105celsius. And my original motor still sings after 4 years of track abuse.
05-12-11, 06:37 AM
#34
Weird reading all these posts about temps increasing with AC on, especially coming from people with front mounts. I have a Blitz FMIC, Koyo N-flow, Stock t-stat, good ducting, and ~70/30 mixture. Single oil cooler, as well. Stock turbos...
I've NEVER seen above 86C, unless the car had been sitting (turned off) for a while. But even then, if I just leave the AC on with all the fan settings at 85C in my PFC, the coolant temperature will eventually level out at 85-86. The coolant temperature behaves this way regardless of ambient temperature... The ONLY time it has stayed above that was on-track, and it hit 95C max.
As a matter of fact, this was the case when I had the stock intercooler and SMIC set-up. If I turned on the fans with the AC on, temps would only decrease, if above my settings in the PFC. NEVER would the temperatures increase. Either my car is weird, or I have shitty memory...
Back on topic. As others have said, improve your ducting, improve your water/coolant mixture, remove any air that is possibly left, and verify the functionality of your t-stat. There is no reason that you should be seeing those temperatures while moving, with an aftermarket radiator.
I've NEVER seen above 86C, unless the car had been sitting (turned off) for a while. But even then, if I just leave the AC on with all the fan settings at 85C in my PFC, the coolant temperature will eventually level out at 85-86. The coolant temperature behaves this way regardless of ambient temperature... The ONLY time it has stayed above that was on-track, and it hit 95C max.
As a matter of fact, this was the case when I had the stock intercooler and SMIC set-up. If I turned on the fans with the AC on, temps would only decrease, if above my settings in the PFC. NEVER would the temperatures increase. Either my car is weird, or I have shitty memory...
Back on topic. As others have said, improve your ducting, improve your water/coolant mixture, remove any air that is possibly left, and verify the functionality of your t-stat. There is no reason that you should be seeing those temperatures while moving, with an aftermarket radiator.
05-12-11, 03:20 PM
#36
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Yes
One thing I don't understand (and has been said several times now)is how to improve the ducting to my radiator. The sides of it are already blocked by foam, what else is there to do? Remove the fog lights? I'm not going to pull of the a/c or power steering. I guess I should post some pics of how it's setup?
One thing I don't understand (and has been said several times now)is how to improve the ducting to my radiator. The sides of it are already blocked by foam, what else is there to do? Remove the fog lights? I'm not going to pull of the a/c or power steering. I guess I should post some pics of how it's setup?
05-12-11, 03:33 PM
#38
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Make sure the foam, that's on the bottom (inside) of the tray,
fits up against the bottom of the radiator.
I spent alot of time sealing the tray up.
My temps range from 82* to 87*.
fits up against the bottom of the radiator.
I spent alot of time sealing the tray up.
My temps range from 82* to 87*.
05-12-11, 03:39 PM
#39
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Belt is about a month old. I didn't see any wear on the pump when I had it out a month ago. It has the proper tension.
To be honest I don't remember if foam is even there. If it is not there, then it didn't come with it when I bought the car last summer. I can undestand if it wasn't there then air would be going underneath the radiator instead of through it. I just hadn't thought of that, thank you.
To be honest I don't remember if foam is even there. If it is not there, then it didn't come with it when I bought the car last summer. I can undestand if it wasn't there then air would be going underneath the radiator instead of through it. I just hadn't thought of that, thank you.
05-12-11, 03:59 PM
#40
T67, did I say 7?
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Use a flashlight, by looking thru the front (bumper).
In other words, at the front of the radiator.
My foam was falling to pieces, so I pulled it off altogether.
Glued a new thicker piece of foam (cut it to fit), and
used duct tape to make sure it did'nt move.
In other words, at the front of the radiator.
My foam was falling to pieces, so I pulled it off altogether.
Glued a new thicker piece of foam (cut it to fit), and
used duct tape to make sure it did'nt move.
05-12-11, 07:43 PM
#42
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Anyway like some other folks have suggested I'd add the 2nd oil cooler: more cooling and even a little more oil capacity.
I run dual oil coolers, a stock size aluminum rad (radiator world), A/C, fans in datalogit set to 87, 50/50 coolant and my temps even in stop and go traffic rarely exceed 89.
05-12-11, 10:02 PM
#43
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I was testing wires with the multimeter...working
Shorted out the sender, to make sure sending isn't bad. working.
Put everything back into the pod, not working.
Take it back out of the pod, working.
Put everything back into the pod, don't tighten set screw. working.
Set screw that holds gauge in pod causes temp guage not to work.
These are the things that drive me crazy.
05-13-11, 06:45 AM
#44
What do you gain forcing the car to run that cool when there is no danger running the car warmer? IMO, you are just running the fans when it's not required creating additional wear on them which will lower their lifetime for no real benefit. The fans should only be needed to keep the car from overheating.
05-13-11, 08:39 AM
#45
Mahjik - Would you recommend not running a pettit fan switch? I put one in back when I had a stock radiator. Now I have a koyo n-flow and they fans turn on at 85 deg c. according to the temp gauge. They are also draining my battery. Should I just put the stock switch back in? My car is essentially stock other than a DP.
05-28-11, 04:41 PM
#47
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To be honest I have not done much more troubleshooting/testing on this lately. Last weekend I drove to Cedar Rapids, IA and back to KC, KS ~6 hours. On the way there is was raining so the air was cooler (probably low 70's), and never saw my temps past 90*. On the way back it was mostly sunny mid/low 80's and my temps also never went higher than 90*. I did notice at times my oil temps getting close to 210, so I'm trying to find options to add a 2nd cooler now. I'm kind of waiting for warmer weather to see if there really is an issue or not with the coolant system. I haven't added any foam in my undertray to block air from passing under the radiator yet either.
05-28-11, 11:06 PM
#49
The best cooling system mod you can do, is adding the second oil cooler. Think about it. @ 210 for oil you are near boiling point for water. If you were to add a second oil cooler that could potentially reduce your oil temps by another 10 C, your water cooling system no longer has to work anywhere near as hard and you will find your Water temps will reduce as well.
There is a reason why the R1 models came with two oilcoolers... shoud have been standard for all FDs...
There is a reason why the R1 models came with two oilcoolers... shoud have been standard for all FDs...
05-29-11, 08:52 AM
#50
Let's not forget that you can also go with a dual rad setup using small, thick core radiators. 
FWIW, there is a car down @ KDR making similar power to me (high 400s) with dual, thick core rads and according to Dave after a hard pull with it on the dyno (4th gear to redline, even in summer) coolant temps are barely grazing 80 deg C. I'm seriously contemplating doing this, although you do have to relocate your oil coolers...
I just retuned after installing a new fuel pump, and even with a Fluidyne, 160 deg t-stat, fans coming on early, and an 80/20 water/coolant mix, I still hit 108 deg C after one of the pulls.
Normally I'm up around 100 deg C after a pull though, even WITH my cooling mods...According to Dave you're going to put undue stress on your coolant seals running it that hot. It just runs too hot for my taste...He even seemed surprised that I was idling at 86-87 deg.
FWIW, there is a car down @ KDR making similar power to me (high 400s) with dual, thick core rads and according to Dave after a hard pull with it on the dyno (4th gear to redline, even in summer) coolant temps are barely grazing 80 deg C. I'm seriously contemplating doing this, although you do have to relocate your oil coolers...I just retuned after installing a new fuel pump, and even with a Fluidyne, 160 deg t-stat, fans coming on early, and an 80/20 water/coolant mix, I still hit 108 deg C after one of the pulls.
Normally I'm up around 100 deg C after a pull though, even WITH my cooling mods...According to Dave you're going to put undue stress on your coolant seals running it that hot. It just runs too hot for my taste...He even seemed surprised that I was idling at 86-87 deg.