BACKGROUND- (Please see cliffnotes below if you don't care and just want to give tech advice)

Hello everyone. My name is Craig and I have been a member for going on two years. I don't hardly ever post as I am mostly on here doing research and learning. I bought my car in May '07 as a project without knowing much more about rotaries besides they didn't have pistons and could rev high. I made a few post on here soon after and was immediately told to just take the car to a shop, I was in over my head. I could not afford an expensive rotary mechanic and parts so I started learning. After learning a little, I became scared of owning a rotary. I couldn't believe how bad the mpg was, and for a car that cost nearly 50 grand new, how unreliable it was said to be. I started to wonder if maybe I should sell the car, hell I even started to part it out to do the dreaded LSx swap. (Which I really wasn't that into, I had a camaro and traded it for a Miata if that tells you anything) Anyways, I decided to quit being scared and give the 13b a shot. So I have spent the last year or so buying back parts I sold, learning about my car, and planning a build. Alright, now to the tech stuff

CLIFF NOTES-
My car is 1993 VR base with 135,000 miles. Mods are
-Garrett 60-1 turbo with racing beat manifold
-Apexi Power FC
-KG parts secondary rail w/ 1600cc injectors, 550cc primaries
-Competition fuel pump (what build sheet said, supra tt pump maybe?)
-SX performance afpr
-3in downpipe and midpipe, with apexi GT catback
-Apexi hybrid FMIC with Greddy RS bov (battery in rear bin)
-Greddy profec b and greddy tt
-Aluminum radiator

I bought the car with numerous issues from a dealer who assured me it was fine because they're wasn't a rod knocking I have since then been fixing issues one by one to only find out the I have a bad coolant seal, so time to pull the motor. I plan to do as much as possible while the engine is out. If there is one thing I have learned about working on cars is to do it right the first time.

1. Rebuild short block with kit, not sure which one, as of know I am leaning towards atkins. I am assuming my core will be rebuildable, if not I will buy used housing as I can't afford new ones
2. Replace oil pump, necessary gaskets
3. Delete ac/ps, AWS, and OMP
4. Have injectors cleaned and flow tested
5. Simplify harness
6. Buy new tranny or have the 5th gear syncro replaced in mine
7. Make a v-mount style of intercooler as opposed to front mount (if budget allows)
8. Add parts I kept for the FD when parting out my dsm (slim fans, aeromotive afpr with gauge and SS lines, konin villians, possible egt, oil press, and wideband gauges if I can afford a pod)

Questions-
1. I have read that for budget builds it is not necessary to replace the side seals. Do the side seal springs still need replaced? Does anyone absolutely disagree, and thinks they should be replaced no matter what?
2. Is it worth it to lap the irons? I know I will need to if they are out of spec, but how important is this? It seems like for my type of build it isn't necesarry
3. Fuel pulsation dampener? I have read to replace this as a precaution, but I do not fully understand why or how to check if mine is okay
4. Since I am on limited funds, how important is a oil pan brace?
5. Engine mounts? Yes or no and if yes from where?
6. Is it more cost affective to have the syncro replaced in my tranny or just buy a used transmission? I hesitate to just fix my syncro as my transmission has very high mileage and the cost of newer used transmissions are relatively cheap.
7. To wire up the slim fans, do I just need to cut the connectors off of my stock fans and wire them up to the new ones? That is what I did on my dsm.

All advice is welcome. My plans are to use the car as a weekend warrior. Ultimate goal now is a 'reliable' 400hp. Also, my current engine has already been streetported so no need to worry about that Here is a link to some older pics of the car http://http://s204.photobucket.com/a...5/liv4psi/RX7/ I am sure someone of you have saw it before. I plan on taking a lot of pics along my way and being descriptive so other newbs like myself aren't scared to tackle their own project.

Thanks for looking

 

no tech advice but i learned the hard way if you are not mech knowledgable about rotaries and dont have the loot, you shouldnt be driving one...

but if you know how to take care of it and diagnose the problems rotaries are hella fun.....

i had enough with my rx8 so lsx is what i plan... later on i do want a 20b tho... good luck, keep us posted!

 

I have a honda accord as a DD, and it and the FD are payed off. I don't make much but I manage my money well and have no car payment, so that helps. Also, I have a local rotary mechanic that is all about 'helping' me along the way for a minimal price. He was a DIY'er so he understands. Plus I enjoy building my cars, even if I had the money I would want to do it on my own. Driving something you have built yourself is a whole different sense of pride.

 

1. After reading and checking with ALOT of guys whose opinions I valued, I went with Mazda hard and soft seals. Including stock 2 pc. apex seals. Suited my purposes for the car.
2. With that many miles, your oil pump might have seen better days, especially the chain. But I'd wait until disassembly to make sure. You can buy a gasket kit from MAZDA. I would order the metal front cover gasket separately.
3. Delete AWS for sure. I kept the OMP but with stainless lines and new crush washers.
4. FWIW I sent mine to these guys.... http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=fuelinjectclean and was happy.
#3. The fuel pulsation dampner has a tendency to leak unexpectedly from heat and age. Visually there wouldn't be a clue. Either replace with new (~$110 IIRC) or check this sight for a simple how-to on deleting it with apparently no ill effects http://www.banzai-racing.com/
#4. It's not critical but sure a 'nice to have' IMO. There are other things you can do to help avoid leaking...peening the surfaces etc. that don't cost, but re-sealing the pan with the motor in the car was not something I wanted to worry about.
#5. I really like my NOLTECS, but opinions differ and Banzai has also had good feedback.
#6. With that many miles, I'd look for a used transmission. But remember finding one with lower miles that hasn't been abused might also be challenge. YRMV.
#7. IMHO, for your purposes (street), I recommend staying with a SMIC. And with a good SMIC, Blitz, Greddy or PFS you shouldn't have to mess with slim fans etc. KISS.
Order the rebuild video from here.. http://rotaryaviation.com/Books_videos.htm
Get a hard copy of the FSM unless you want to get a laptop greasy.
If you've never done a rebuild before, look for some experienced help in your area. Also need an appropriate clean space that can be tied up for several weeks, and a willingness to buy a few tools....pilot bearing remover, large socket for FW nut, an engine stand and rotary engine stand adapter. You can generally rent a engine hoist. You'll also need micrometers, feeler guages etc. Also figure a silicone hose kit, ALL coolant and rubber fuel hoses and maybe some DaleClark check-valves. Also incidentals like Hylomar, Hondabond, anti-seize (hi-temp), assembly lube etc. Air tools and a compressor are nice to have.
If you end up over your head, there are a couple of rotary shops close by....rx7store and Banzai in Pierceton IN.

 

Thank you for your reply Sgtblue.

I guess I can add it to the list of things to eliminate, especially since I will be using an Aeromotive regulator right by the rails.

Those were the two brands I was referring two. I had never heard of the NOLTECS until I saw them when searching on ebay. I might hold off if the mounts aren't two hard to change with the engine installed.

Also, I have a 24x24 garage, hoist and engine stand, rotary shop two streets over, and I love any excuse to buy new tools. Plus the Atkins DVD is in the mail, so I should be good with everything in the last paragragh. Thanks again for the input and help.

 

Hey, no problem. Keep us posted on your progress.

I intentionally avoided these two questions because I've only done one rebuild.....and that was with technical help of a friend who had done several. Since no one else posted I'll give you my .02, but I'm definitely not a builder. You might also search in the rotary tech section of this forum too.

#1. It is NOT absolutely necessary to replace the seals themselves. DO replace the springs. Of course you won't have to clearance new seals if your re-use them, but it's critical (can't remember if the video addresses it) that you replace them in EXACTLY the same positions on EACH rotor as they were removed. Use whatever numbering/labeling system will work for you.

#2. This really depends on the irons IMO. I went by the FSM when I checked mine and all surfaces were well within spec to MAZDA...so I didn't. My corner seal grooves weren't too bad and the coolant seal channels were in good shape too. Instead I put the money to new housings.

Other things to consider...I chose to do:
*Replaced all four bearings.
*Replaced thrust bearing and washers
*Front and rear seals.
*Replace the OEM wax thermopellet with the all metal piece. I bought an Atkins engine stand adapter and they threw one in for free . http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/pr...age=1&featured

 

its great to see you are working on that car again. also i think you link is broken. but i wold really like to see it when its all done.

 

I've been going working on it little by little. I finally bought a new house this spring with a good sized garage, so that helps. So far I have changed the fuel filter, plugs, wires, etc, I had a new downpipe made to replace the rusted one, and I sandblasted the purple intake manifold back down to bare metal. Oh, I also bought a PFC commander. I have a few thousand saved up, so I hope it's enough to do a decent rebuild. I am all about going for a good long cruise with another 7 once I get her on the road.

Quick question about fuel support, if anyone wants to chime in. I have a supra tt pump I believe with 550cc/1600cc injectors. I was going to send my injectors in to get cleaned and take the car to rx7store to get tuned once I am done. It seems to me I should upgrade my primaries to 850cc while I am at it. I'm not worried about a slightly rich idle as the car won't be a daily, any reason why not to upgrade? It seems like the more fuel support the better with these cars. I would like to eventually go with dual pumps and SS lines, but that won't be until later on.

 

I would say to be safe, switch your primaries to the 850's. I used 850's when I had stock twins, standalone ecu, and my v-mount installed, and used a good bit of the duty cycle. I would say it's a good idea because rotaries not getting enough fuel= meltdown. Depending on what you are using to control the car(ecu wise) you can tune the idle so it's not rich.

 

Alright, so I think I am going to add some 850cc injectors to my list. I either have to have my primary 'rail' modified or buy one from kgparts right?