will it be okay?
will it be okay?
i've heard that performing too many mods to increase HP at once without upgrading the ECU can cause engines to run lean. that being said, i'm thinking about replacing the current exhaust i have with a much more free-flowing one (like an N1 exhaust). i currently have a down pipe with a relatively quiet exhaust (Top Speed Pro 1?) and was just wondering if i had anything to really worry about. i'm pretty sure my ECU is still stock.
you can do as many mods as you like as long as you maintain your boost to 10 psi. That means NO SPIKES, NO CREEP, and I mean 10 psi not 10.9.
I had Mild streetport, CAI, PFS SMIC, DP, MP, Greddy boost controller, and a stock ECU and stock catback. Ran like that for about a couple of years. wot all the time.
Once I put on my RB catback I began to creep, but by that time I already had a PFC so it was ok
again the key is to maintain 10 psi so you don't go into a lean condition.
I had Mild streetport, CAI, PFS SMIC, DP, MP, Greddy boost controller, and a stock ECU and stock catback. Ran like that for about a couple of years. wot all the time.
Once I put on my RB catback I began to creep, but by that time I already had a PFC so it was ok
again the key is to maintain 10 psi so you don't go into a lean condition.
The choice of which ECU to use (PFC = Power Full Computer, it has a limited built in boost controller, of sorts) really depends on who you will have to tune it. It seems that the PFC is the ECU of choice because of it's ease and gracious base map (depending on what series you get it's good for your standard bolt-ons and up to, I believe, about 13psi w/o tune).
So long as you can maintain a 10-8-10 boost pattern the stock ECU is ok.. be VERY careful putting flow mods on your car with the stocker though...
There are several different choices for either piggy-backs or full on ECU replacements (PFC and Haltech seem to be the two main ECU replacements). You should choose which you go with based on who will be tuning your car, and what they know best.
You should really look into getting an upgraded ECU before doing anything else to the car, it's MUCH cheaper than a rebuild (incase you accidentally spike)
So long as you can maintain a 10-8-10 boost pattern the stock ECU is ok.. be VERY careful putting flow mods on your car with the stocker though...
There are several different choices for either piggy-backs or full on ECU replacements (PFC and Haltech seem to be the two main ECU replacements). You should choose which you go with based on who will be tuning your car, and what they know best.
You should really look into getting an upgraded ECU before doing anything else to the car, it's MUCH cheaper than a rebuild (incase you accidentally spike)
The choice of which ECU to use (PFC = Power Full Computer, it has a limited built in boost controller, of sorts) really depends on who you will have to tune it. It seems that the PFC is the ECU of choice because of it's ease and gracious base map (depending on what series you get it's good for your standard bolt-ons and up to, I believe, about 13psi w/o tune).
So long as you can maintain a 10-8-10 boost pattern the stock ECU is ok.. be VERY careful putting flow mods on your car with the stocker though...
There are several different choices for either piggy-backs or full on ECU replacements (PFC and Haltech seem to be the two main ECU replacements). You should choose which you go with based on who will be tuning your car, and what they know best.
You should really look into getting an upgraded ECU before doing anything else to the car, it's MUCH cheaper than a rebuild (incase you accidentally spike)
So long as you can maintain a 10-8-10 boost pattern the stock ECU is ok.. be VERY careful putting flow mods on your car with the stocker though...
There are several different choices for either piggy-backs or full on ECU replacements (PFC and Haltech seem to be the two main ECU replacements). You should choose which you go with based on who will be tuning your car, and what they know best.
You should really look into getting an upgraded ECU before doing anything else to the car, it's MUCH cheaper than a rebuild (incase you accidentally spike)
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you can do as many mods as you like as long as you maintain your boost to 10 psi. That means NO SPIKES, NO CREEP, and I mean 10 psi not 10.9.
I had Mild streetport, CAI, PFS SMIC, DP, MP, Greddy boost controller, and a stock ECU and stock catback. Ran like that for about a couple of years. wot all the time.
Once I put on my RB catback I began to creep, but by that time I already had a PFC so it was ok
again the key is to maintain 10 psi so you don't go into a lean condition.
I had Mild streetport, CAI, PFS SMIC, DP, MP, Greddy boost controller, and a stock ECU and stock catback. Ran like that for about a couple of years. wot all the time.
Once I put on my RB catback I began to creep, but by that time I already had a PFC so it was ok
again the key is to maintain 10 psi so you don't go into a lean condition.
I had ported turbos and I still crept to almost 12 psi and spiked to 15 (but I controlled it with my boost controller). IMO the RB actually flows rather well (it does have have a 3" pipe). I havent seen any data that contradics otherwise.
The only tried and true method of removing creep is using a catalytic converter. Other than that, every car is different. A friend of mine ran an open air intake, downpipe, midpipe and Apexi N1 Duals with zero creep. Later he ported is throttle body and that was enough extra flow to cause his boost to become uncontrollable. He ported his wastegate and then noticed the boost to be more "sloppy". It didn't have the same punch as it did before the porting. He later switched to non-seq, but boost creep seems to be car specific.






