spandy

iTrader: (1)

I have another thread pertaining to some hard lines that I am unsure of (located here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/i-fail-vacuum-diagrams-762375/) but I was trying to work through it considering I have a boost controler and have elminated my omp, so here is my half baked stab at it, and the original....My reasoning behind each line/solenoid deletion is explained below so you can atleast maybe following my madness, which is probably just garbage anyway









So since I eliminated my OMP and plugged the injector nozzles, I no longer needed that vac line, so out went the baby blue line from the turbo inlet elbow, and both lines to the solenoids that attach to the UIM.

Hooking up the boost controler this way eliminated the dark green and orange lines, and inturn made the solenoids on the UIM not needed, so they got tossed as well.

So the metal hard lines now only use 2 of the 6 lines (from actuator and nipple by actuator) and the other 4are capped.

The red line, use a vac line out of the vacuum chamber going into a 4 way splitter, and split the vac lines off on their desginated routes to the 3 solenoids and UIM.



Okay, I'm guessing by now that many are laughing because it's wrong, but just in case, if this will work, I still have one question, which actually I need to know anyway. With this setup, based off of mine or the original, where the hell does the gold colored line go, the one that is coming off the upwards facing nipple on the back of the y pipe and then goes out over the CRV and disappears.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

The gold colored line conects the y-pipe to the check valve leading to the pressure chamber.

I don't see anything missing from your diagram yet - you have a sequential with just about all emissions deleted, a boost controller, and a few things replumbed.

Dave

Toyotarx7

iTrader: (13)

hey quick quesiton, my rpms bounce up and down sometimes, i know its a vacuum leak but idk where i would begin to look for it, do u know of any common locations that leaks occur in and cause the rpms to bounce?

spandy

iTrader: (1)

So, in the picture, it shows the vac line with the check valve coming off the top nipple of the LIM and then to the pressure chamber. Should I cap that nipple on the LIM, and then run my vac line with check valve to the pressure chamber from the y-pipe?

If I can do that, the only other concern was using the 4-way splitter for all the red lines. If I can do that as well, I might actually be able to complete this.

twomucboost4u

iTrader: (9)

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/vacuum-diagrams-stock-simplified-sequential-non-sequential-single-turbo-749702/

I posted it in your other thread as well.

Chris

spandy

iTrader: (1)

I used that diagram as referrence to get my boost controller/stepper motor setup.

But in those diagrams, it shows the top nipple of the LIM not being used, and the vac line with check valve going from the y-pipe to the pressure chamber, so I have to assume it will work with my setup as well.

See, this is why I'm so confused as every vacuum diagram on here is just a little bit different. I like where mine is going just because it's the one that seemed the most understandable to me personally, I just gotta verify the pressure chamber setup and the use of a 4 way splitter and I'm done, or starting over if it won't work, one of the two.

Would this work guys for resolving the disapearing orange vac line like what was mentioned above using the vac line from the y-pipe to the pressure chamber, and then capping the upper nipple on the LIM?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Yes, it will work like that. You can use a 4-way or a pair of tees to connect the vacuum chamber to the other solenoids.

You do not need to cap any tube/nipple that acts as a pass-thru. That goes for the 4 stacked up that go thru the LIM. That also applies to the tree of tubes that run from the wg/pc actuators up behind the air pump.

Dave

spandy

iTrader: (1)

Oh wow, that is a major concern that just went away. Thanks to all that helped!!!!!!!!!!

Dgeesaman, I knew they would be fine in it was just a "pass-through" line, but I figured if I cap and zip tie every line and cover every nipple that isnt being used, if I ever have a hose pop off, it will be SO EASY to find it's home seeing how everything else will be capped off, plus I thought it would look cleaner not have open nipples and hard lines poking up all over the place.

Wow, I'm so glad this will work.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Well you COULD just take the dremel with a cut-off wheel and make those extra nipples go away.

Dave

spandy

iTrader: (1)

found one more thing of concern.

I will only have the 4 solenoid, two (2) turbo control, charge relief, and charge. control

So question is, in that pic (the last one I posted above) (E) is labeled as a turbo control solenoid and has the filter on the back side, and then the solenoid right under it was also labeled as a turbo control solenoid, but from the pic it looks like it doesn't have the filter and instead has that little black mitsubishi cap on it. Is that the correct way, or should i be using solenoids with the little filters on both of them?

twomucboost4u

iTrader: (9)

its a totally different solenoid... It looks more like the purge control solenoid then the other ones under the manifold... Let me know if you know what I mean or not. I beleive its green and black and is attatched to the air control valve located on the LIM...

Chris

spandy

iTrader: (1)

I think I understand. I didn't realize it had a different connection, because it's not like the solenoids that would go to the rats nest as far as the connectors go. the only connector left is identical to the turbo precontrol and wastegate control, which is a black connector with yellow inside and accepts a two prong male connection.

i don't know if the solenoids are the same or not, but i have an extra purge control solenoid, by any chance can i use that and plug it in as the 2nd turbo control solenoid?


*oh, and something off topic. I broke the harness connector to the knock sensor off and there isn't enough wire coming out of the harness clip to soder the lines back together. Can I just cut the connector off the knock sensor and soder it to the harness where the other clip used to be? i realize if I do this I won't have a disconnect, but it's just for the time being.

spandy

iTrader: (1)

These two for turbo control, right? One to a rats nest soleniod, and the other to a black clip on the harness. I forgot i had this other solenoid so if this is correct, disregard the question about using a purge solenoid in it's place.

spandy

iTrader: (1)

dammit, one more question....

the vac diagram isn't super clear on which nipples hook up to which vac lines. the solenoid in my top pic (rats nest solenoid) has a metal and plastic nipple and it doesn't clarify which goes where.

Same with the bottom solenoid in my last pic, not really sure which lines go to which nipples.

EDIT: is the filter suppose to go on the metal nipple? I have a spare solenoid, same model number and all, but one has the filter on the plastic nipple, and the other on the metal.

And I'll throw this in again incase it was missed....can I just soder my knock sensor line to the harness where the clip used to be before I broke it off?

NeoTuri

iTrader: (2)

I did.