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why everyone should rewire their fuel pump

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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 07:13 AM
  #26  
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For anybody that has not done this, what the hell are you thinking, just do it, it is a very simple fix and you get the peace of mind that you will not damage something at wot.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 10:07 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RotaryBuddha
Don't forget about jumping out the resistor pack. If you don't the system could still send low voltage to the relay and it won't be able to pull in.
where is that resistor pack located?
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 10:16 AM
  #28  
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Definitely be careful with the grommets going through the pump carrier, I've seen an instance of fuel wicking up the wiring into the back hatch area......
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 11:08 AM
  #29  
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or you can use this

http://www.cj-motorsports.com/catrx7twinwalbro.htm
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 11:26 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by DriftDreamzSS
Is a full rewire really necessary? Ive only done the simple one DaleClark posted up. Has anyone actually ever had that setup perform poorly? Seems like alot of work if there is already a proven simple solution.
You can run an extra relay or jump the wires in the front fuse box like Dale Clark wrote about. Only problem with the later is if you have a problem in the harness somewhere up front, it will still persist in back.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 01:09 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Definitely be careful with the grommets going through the pump carrier, I've seen an instance of fuel wicking up the wiring into the back hatch area......
Especially a prob in hot areas like Fla if you have a faulty purge system.

I just de-pinned and re-attached my own wiring to the factory bulkhead.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 01:21 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by mobeoner
where is that resistor pack located?
Under the master cylinder.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 01:24 PM
  #33  
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It should also be noted that your fuel maps will be running richer in all areas now. My cruise map went a full point richer, I don't recall what the boost areas were because I just retuned everything.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
It should also be noted that your fuel maps will be running richer in all areas now. My cruise map went a full point richer, I don't recall what the boost areas were because I just retuned everything.
recently performed this mod with the diagram posted on page one. Thanks for the diagram

my idle fuel pressure went up about one psi so i assume that the pump is now getting the required voltage thought the powerband and not just at idle
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 09:09 PM
  #35  
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i really wish i could do this but i dont want to mess with my electrical system, i would love to do it tho
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 02:42 AM
  #36  
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hey simon wanna come do mine? i would guarantee id mess something up
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 04:38 AM
  #37  
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+1 for doing this mod if you are making any kind of power. It's worth the time/effort!

-ch
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 10:24 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RotaryBuddha
Don't forget about jumping out the resistor pack. If you don't the system could still send low voltage to the relay and it won't be able to pull in.
This I haven't heard about. What are you actually doing? What does it do?
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 10:25 AM
  #39  
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If this wouldn't screw up my tune, I'd do it.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 10:26 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Prophet7000
This I haven't heard about. What are you actually doing? What does it do?
The stock FD has a resistor that lowers the fuel pump voltage at idle/cruise to prolong pump life. If you jump it, it will have full voltage all the time.

thewird
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Definitely be careful with the grommets going through the pump carrier, I've seen an instance of fuel wicking up the wiring into the back hatch area......
hey Rich, do you know if you can purchase replacement electrical plugs for the connections on top of the fuel pump cover, or do you need to buy the whole harness?
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 03:00 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by FD3S2005
hey simon wanna come do mine? i would guarantee id mess something up

yeah just give me a call ......its pretty easy as long as you follow the diagram
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 03:31 PM
  #43  
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The last owner of my car just jumpered the fuse box up front. What should I do about this if I do the full re-wire that dudemaaan posted on the first page.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 03:36 PM
  #44  
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problem with the resistor bypass is that you are still using the long and dry car wires. You only gain that you are full voltage all the time but at WOT or where the higher fuel consumption is necessary, you won't gain anything from this since the stock relay is already triggered.

So it is a pretty useless mod. You better rewire it completly with a new relay and a new wire directly from the battery.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 03:38 PM
  #45  
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From: Trois-Rivières, Qc, Can
Originally Posted by staticguitar313
The last owner of my car just jumpered the fuse box up front. What should I do about this if I do the full re-wire that dudemaaan posted on the first page.
You mean he bypassed the stock relay in the box in the very front of the car? Just leave it like that, you can still install a new relay in the trunk with a new wire to get the better voltage.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 04:04 PM
  #46  
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Do this mod now!

I re-wired my fuel pump and my car ran so incredibly rich I had to pull TONS of fuel out on the dyno. The car stumbled and fouled the plugs just by rewiring the fuel pump on STOCK injectors and STOCK fuel map on PFS PMC.

I ended up being able to run 16psi on the dyno making 330RWHP up to 7500rpm with a 10afr out of rewiring the pump. I would never run this on the street of course at 100% duty cycle but the point is, DON"T mod anything on your car until this is done.

Hell, this is a mistake, pumps should be directly wired from the factory. Think of all the possibilites and hassles of having inconsistent fuel pump voltage....this is probably a hidden cause of many engine failures...people thought their base map was enough fuel, but the pump wasn't getting enough volts.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 04:40 PM
  #47  
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Here's another nice thing about rewiring your pump. You get another 12v switched in the interior fuse panel that doesn't get killed during cranking.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 04:49 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by puma
problem with the resistor bypass is that you are still using the long and dry car wires. You only gain that you are full voltage all the time but at WOT or where the higher fuel consumption is necessary, you won't gain anything from this since the stock relay is already triggered.

So it is a pretty useless mod. You better rewire it completly with a new relay and a new wire directly from the battery.
+1. The resistor bypass should only be done after removing the fp source from the ign harness if your not going to run a new wire.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 05:14 PM
  #49  
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The resistor bypass alone won't help much. I like to get rid of it mainly to simplify the system and eliminate a possible failure point. I got a full extra volt at the fuel pump by running a direct fused 12v wire from the battery to trigger the fp relay.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 04:31 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by puma
You mean he bypassed the stock relay in the box in the very front of the car? Just leave it like that, you can still install a new relay in the trunk with a new wire to get the better voltage.
Yeah that's what I was asking, I'll go ahead and snag a relay and start doing this right.
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