I agree that the question is very confussing; is it ideal shift point? or why is my engine weak at higher rpm? Ideal shift point in any gear, in any car is that which puts rpms in new gear right at or just before peak torque (peak acceleration) .. max overall acceleration results from driving between peak torgue and peak hp points. Thus for RX-7's go into the 7's ..with my mods I shift at 8k. Whoever talked about floating seals .. w/ 300,000 miles of rotary experience that is crazy ..maybe above 10k rpm. Other thought on weak powerband, if that is the problem, clogged cats???

 

It's very stange that you loose power with a constant 10 psi of boost. I would go get a compresion test to see how the engine is doing. With a healthy 100% stock FD, the power drops a little bit past 7K RPMs. Don't get me wrong the car will still pull past 7.0 K but there is a difference in power in a stock set up.

At WOT my car pulls hard all the way till redline (I'm not stock). I shift right before 8k but I never pass it intentionally because I get fuel cut <---that's not fun. When I'm just cruising I shift anywhere in the 3-4k range.

M-

 

ok.. this thread... i was amused on the first page.

 

It may also be a perception issue. Just like any other car, torque starts decreasing before you reach the optimal shift point. You feel that change, and it feels like you are losing power, even if you're not.

-Max

 

^^that's what I started thinking... the faster you're going, the less noticable changes in acceleration are... 5k still seems low though; I usually don't start to lose that "***** to the back of the seat" feel until about 6-6.5k... maybe that's just the 60-1 talking though...

Can you hear any misfires? Is your ignition breaking up? One cheap fix is adding some good ground wires.

Another tip for your mod list: If you're asking a question about something like shifting, there is absolutely no reason to list your

"APEXI TURBO TIMER
BLITZ -TEMP/BOOST
BLITZ -SBC / POWER METER
MAZDACOMP -RADIATOR
MAZDASPEED -SHORT SHIFT
TRIPOINT -AST
HAWK - HPS- BREAKS
GREDDY -RACE PULLEYS
GAB -STRUT TOWER BAR"

what the crap does an AST or radiator have to do with acceleration and shifting?
I'm still trying to figure out which mod is more ridiculous to list in this post, the turbo timer, or the strut tower brace...

 

Great reading folks. Let's start another one.

 

I still haven't figured out for sure what the question is.

 

fawk it...shift at 8k.

 

 

This whole thing reminds me of the quote "A car is only as good as it's driver" You'll lose to a sentra if you don't figure out how to drive buddy. I shift at 7500-8000 and have good power till then. Yes of course mods make a difference on where your powerband begins to drop. My advice is to find someone who knows how to drive a stick shift and let them give you pointers.

mods:
Intake
3in DP
9.5lb flywheel
Intercooler piping with Greddy Elbow
EFini y-pipe

 

7500 is too high i think for twins. i read in SCC that it would be better to shift after 6500. going redline is not great. cept it cant be helped in first gear sometimes.

 

That is just plain wrong. If SCC did any fricking math on their own, they would have realized what a silly statement that is. Do a search for power/torque in each gear, JimLab's posted his CarTest calculations several times.

You will see that it is advantageous to shift between 7500-8000 rpm, on even a stock car, for the 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shifts. I think the 4-5 shift should be done at lower rpm than redline on a stock car, but I may be wrong on that -- look at JimLab's posts on it.

 

thankyou

 

if you shift at 6500 you will be out of your power band in most gears, well at least for me