Tanjo

Designed the clutch system on our cars, needs to be shot in the damn face with a shotgun. There better be some damn good reasons on why pull cluthes are better. Jesus, I dont have a manual, and I just spent so many hours fighting with the tranny after I got all the bellhousing bolts. Ended up having to call around, and finally figured that I have to unbolt the clutch through that little window. And then, since I was by myself, I had to jump between turning the motor at the main crank, and under the car to see if I got one to line up, then back up, then back down.... **** THAT ****. I finally got the bitch out, and had to get the pressure plate off. I dont know how I did it, one minute Im pulling and prying and **** to no avail, the next minute it just falls off in my hands. I dont know how Im gonna get the new one on. SUPER. Cant WAIT to get my flywheel back so I can fight with the **** again....

BobfisH

You need to read a manual dude, before you **** your car up.

You can just pry the clutch off with two screwdrivers, it took me all of about 25 seconds.
Getting the clutch back on is even easier.

Do your reserach before you break your car and clutch.

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

For sure. Dont just dive into a project like that with no prior knowledge. Its real easy to break something when you dont know what your doing, or you get frusterated. Right in the maual it tells you how to do the tranny seperation...

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

There's a good reason for the pull-type clutch - it allows less pedal effort and a smaller bellhousing. It's not hard at all to deal with, but it is slightly different than a typical push clutch.

That's why there's a big warning sticker on the inspection plate . You can either disengage the throwout bearing from the pressure plate or just unbolt the pressure plate and drop the whole assembly out. Either way it's pretty straight forward.

Reinstallation is super easy - just put the clutch/pressure plate on as usual, then after the tranny is in use a screwdriver to push the release fork forward so the throwout bearing clips onto the pressure plate. Done.

This has been documented ad infinitum on this forum, various FD websites, and in the shop manual. It should not have been difficult or a surprise for you.

Dale

rynberg

Proper planning prevents problems!

You can download the manual for free from the sticky thread at the top.

BTW, you should replace the rear main seal while you are in there.

TpCpLaYa

iTrader: (10)

no its Prior Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance..lol, i was in jr high not too long ago

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

And also think about replacing the pilot bearing (in the end of the eccentric shaft) as well, depending on the mileage.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

And, since it's been so much fun you'd rather eat glass and smoke a road flare than to do all again soon....consider the clutch fork too.

CantGoStraight

There's also a link to a video for a how to on doing it some where on this forum, (search would have turned it up)

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

wargasm posted the vid, search under his username.

Tanjo

Ya, i really wish i had my own comp... I always have to use someone elses, and that doesnt always work. And, my old clutch was so bad that the car wouldnt move at all, and its my only car. So I kinda needed it done NOW. I knew going into it that it was going to be diffrent, so I didnt try and force anything or nothing like that. Its all a learning experiance, and I know enough not to really **** anything up. I DO wish I woulds tried to research it a little more, but Ive done plenty of clutches, just no pull type. How different could it be, right? lol

rx7goomba

http://www.zeroglabs.com/rx7/pullclutch.htm

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

lol, i find the clutch job to be easy in a fd. all you need is a long screwdriver to disengage the throwout bearing. putting it back in is super easy.

then again ive done quite a few so its just habbit now

Tanjo

See, dammit, Im ona shitty public computer that filters everything, and is to damn slow to even think aobut playing a video. So. You say that I can pu the clutch up normal, and engage the throwout bearing with a long screwdriver. Do I just push the throwout bearing into the little clip thing, like put the screwdiver on the back of the bearing and just pry away, right?

shawnk

Yep that is what I do. As you pry the throwout toward the clutch and wedge collar you will hear it click into the wedge collar. It is kinda a pain and hopefully you replaced your wedge collar or didnt screw it up too bad in the uninstall because if that is bad you will be doing this all again. Replacing your wedge collar and clutch fork are just good ideas while your in there - especially if it is your first time doing it.

Good luck.

Tanjo

Ya.... So today I finally got my flywheel back. Got it on, the cltuch on. Went to throw the tranny up, and I couldnt get the damn throwout to lock in to the cover. I saw that there was a groove on the throwout, and that when the old cover popped off a snap-ring like object flew off and got lost. So then I start to think that the groove on the throwout is supposed to have that snap ring on it. SO, I take the cltuch back off and check to see if it even tries to latch onto the tranny, while its on the ground, and the thing locks on there. And I cant get it off. ****. I HATE when there is noone around that I can ask. NO ONE in the shop Im working in knows how to do it. Im so damn frustrated. I just wanna drive my car....

shawnk

Its like a chinese finger lock. The harder you pull the harder it is to get off. You have to hold the wedge collar flush to the clutch and then pull the throwout bearing off.