Who here has bypassed the F/P REG solenoid?
08-01-02, 05:48 AM
#1
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Who here has bypassed the F/P REG solenoid?
Well,
I did some new resistors for my car(thanx WADE) and while I was at it I got rid of the last solenoid(haa) and I ran the vacuum hose to the F/P regulator and now it idles perfect. I spent alot of time trying to get this idle smooth and just by getting rid of that dam solenoid it smoothed out perfect. I mean just like stock. I have never heard of this and just wanted to know if it was some kind of ECU issue because the Solenoid checked right on the money.
39.7 ohms right in spec.
anyone else out there have any idea as to why?
-Rikki
I did some new resistors for my car(thanx WADE) and while I was at it I got rid of the last solenoid(haa) and I ran the vacuum hose to the F/P regulator and now it idles perfect. I spent alot of time trying to get this idle smooth and just by getting rid of that dam solenoid it smoothed out perfect. I mean just like stock. I have never heard of this and just wanted to know if it was some kind of ECU issue because the Solenoid checked right on the money.
39.7 ohms right in spec.
anyone else out there have any idea as to why?
-Rikki
08-01-02, 07:53 AM
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Yo Ryan,
When I did my non-sequential, I pulled ALL my solenoids...fired her up and she ran like crap...but it was my fault...I accidentally changed the T1 and T2 leads on the coils(YIKES!!!)...car ran REAL rough and stumbled a bit. I figured it was nothing so I took her out for a quick spin....looked at my PFC and whenever I boosted ANYTHING, I would knock 160+!!!!!!!! Since I normally used to knock 16...that was a big sign that something was wrong. So after I pulled the UIM, and saw that I was a dumbass(did I mention DUMBASS), and fixed the mistake, the car ran SO smooth...idle was like before. This is WITH my primary 850cc injectors...
...of course, when I messed up the leads...I think I weaked one of the Apex seals on the back because a few weeks later, I blew my engine.
I'll be up in a little bit though. I'm headed over to Mazda to buy my O ring kit...about to pull the engine now and do some PORTING!!!!
When I did my non-sequential, I pulled ALL my solenoids...fired her up and she ran like crap...but it was my fault...I accidentally changed the T1 and T2 leads on the coils(YIKES!!!)...car ran REAL rough and stumbled a bit. I figured it was nothing so I took her out for a quick spin....looked at my PFC and whenever I boosted ANYTHING, I would knock 160+!!!!!!!! Since I normally used to knock 16...that was a big sign that something was wrong. So after I pulled the UIM, and saw that I was a dumbass(did I mention DUMBASS), and fixed the mistake, the car ran SO smooth...idle was like before. This is WITH my primary 850cc injectors...
...of course, when I messed up the leads...I think I weaked one of the Apex seals on the back because a few weeks later, I blew my engine.
I'll be up in a little bit though. I'm headed over to Mazda to buy my O ring kit...about to pull the engine now and do some PORTING!!!!
08-01-02, 08:18 AM
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Originally posted by Dont_Be_A_Rikki
Awsome
take some pics of the port job and let me know if ya want to compare ports....hehe
september is getting close dude...
Awsome
take some pics of the port job and let me know if ya want to compare ports....heheseptember is getting close dude...
08-01-02, 08:25 AM
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Rikki,
Well it could have been that your FPR solenoid was bad I guess, but you could test that with 12V to the leads and seeing if it switches ports.
It's more likely something was just a little off and since you presumably removed the upper intake to remove the FPR solenoid, you fixed the problem when reassembling. Maybe a gasket wasn't sealing well or something, who knows.
Wade
Well it could have been that your FPR solenoid was bad I guess, but you could test that with 12V to the leads and seeing if it switches ports.
It's more likely something was just a little off and since you presumably removed the upper intake to remove the FPR solenoid, you fixed the problem when reassembling. Maybe a gasket wasn't sealing well or something, who knows.
Wade
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08-01-02, 09:31 AM
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Originally posted by Wade
Rikki,
Well it could have been that your FPR solenoid was bad I guess, but you could test that with 12V to the leads and seeing if it switches ports.
It's more likely something was just a little off and since you presumably removed the upper intake to remove the FPR solenoid, you fixed the problem when reassembling. Maybe a gasket wasn't sealing well or something, who knows.
Wade
Rikki,
Well it could have been that your FPR solenoid was bad I guess, but you could test that with 12V to the leads and seeing if it switches ports.
It's more likely something was just a little off and since you presumably removed the upper intake to remove the FPR solenoid, you fixed the problem when reassembling. Maybe a gasket wasn't sealing well or something, who knows.
Wade
-Rikki
08-01-02, 09:41 AM
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we do that on our t2's it makes them run richer under boost. i dont know about the fd's but the fc's and the cosmo's dont even have a solenoid it goes right to the manifold
mike
mike
08-01-02, 04:07 PM
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i havnt used that soleniod for sometime now, i just run a hose from the Fuel Presure Reg. to the UIM nipple and car idles just fine. I never did see a need for it.
08-01-02, 07:54 PM
#13
The solenoid is only used for hot starts, it cuts vaccum to the regulator during cranking on hot starts. When the car is hot the compression is lower and the car needs more fuel to start. I did this on my TII and after i took all the emissions off the car had troubles starting when it was hot. But if i were to go and disconnect the line to the fuel pressure regulator the car would start. I just wired up a kill switch to the stock relay. But i dont see the fds haveing hot starting problems with all the emissions and idle stuff taken off. What you did shouldnt effect idle. When my TII was just running the stock bac valve without the coolant lines and no emissions stuff, fuel pump to direct voltage from a relay and my paxton regulator to straight vaccum, it idled perfectly rock solid at 900, it would idle up to 1200 on really cold days since the stock bac valve was still connected.
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