namawon

Wow i used boost gauge again. I know the diffence between the two I was just rushed everytime I repsonded. Were trying to mod the car correctly. Before he spends any major money such as ECU, he wants to fix some small stuff. Mainly the rear bushings. As far as driving it hard he shifts at 4-5k now.
Like I said we have no clue what ecu is in it. The previous owner told us a bunch of crap. I dont how it is the stock computer if the stock computer limits it. Its just frustrating trying to mod a rx7 when you dont have alot of money. Hes not gonna sell it though, he loves the car to death.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The stock ECU has fuel cut, however it cannot prevent spikes as it will not react that fast. Mazda gave it a little delay so it didn't slam on fuel cut all the time in cooler weather. If the car is "boost spiking", then you need a boost controller. If the car is "boost creeping", then you can use an exhaust restrictor like I mentioned. It's possible, the car is doing some of both.

Pull out the ECU which is on the passenger side kick panel. If it doesn't have any stickers on it, open it up and see if it has an extra adapter board put inside.

The Driver

iTrader: (4)

Race gas exhumes white... 110 is pretty close to 16

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Simple answer to that problem.... Don't mod the car! Provided you see to the reliability mods (do a search on that if you don't know what I'm referring to) first, you can run an FD in stock form for years without problems.

Half-assing it and cutting corners because you want to modify your car without the proper knowledge or proper funding is just plain stupid. Seriously guy... park the car, leave it alone, learn about it and save some money up. If you keep going forward with the honda/240 "tuner" mentality of cutting corners and putting crap on w/o any understanding of what it's for/what it does then you're going to regret it in the end.

namawon

Yah were not cutting corners. Were trying to figure what would be best mod to do next to do it the right way, but problems with the car keep arising so right now were trying to get it running normal. Yah, i wont let him buy cheap parts, he sees no name "ebay" parts and i gotta stop him from buying them. Im going to start a thread once we get the turbos and the minor suspension parts fixed. Im gonna talk to him about a boost controller and the exhaust restictor. Then we"ll look for the ecu.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

It takes 5 minutes to check on the ECU.

you know that if you control the boost at 10 psi max (I mean 10.0 not 10.5) you can drive your car without any worry on the stock ECU. I did it for years... and my mods were: M2 CAI, PFS SMIC, Streetport, DP, 2.5" midpipe, Stock catback, and ported turbos, on a stock ECU. I controlled my boost to a 10.0 psi max.

Later I got a PFC and I upped my high boost to 12 psi, next I changed my CB to a racing beat dual and I started creeping (on low boost) to 12 psi. No biggie since I was tuned for 12 .



in my opinion controlling the boost down to 10 psi is #1 priority, finding out what ECU you have is 2nd. As what benefit do you have by knowing what ECU you have if you are still boosting past the safe zone? For example people boost 12 psi on the pettit's, but you are at 15 psi so how does that help you? That's easy it doesn't.

namawon

Yes i know its not safe thats why hes driving it so that the boost hardly turns on. its only when he shifts at 6-7k and is running the car hard does it go to 15psi. He hasnt drove it like that in a couple weeks. As far as the ecu, its going to JR and hes leaving it there next week for him to sort it out. Hes gonna look at it, drive it and then figure what ecu and if we should upgrade. (which will probably happen in the future anyway), but before the ecu the boost controller is gonna go in because we figured out it wasnt a creep because the needle on the gauge jumps super fast to 15 at the high rpms like I said. For now he just wants to get it back to the normal running state, which its not at, at all.

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

It still sounds like a creeping issue if it is only taking place at higher rpms with constant throttle pressure. Mahjik's suggestion of a restrictor plate is a cheap, easy and very fast fix.

If he does not have the money for an electroninc boost controller he can spend like $60 on a manual one. They work just as good, just more time consuming to set up (or for me they are anyway, not so for pros like Mahjik there...).

Good idea getting the car to a rotary mechanic. He really needs to help you sort out just what all exactly has been done to the car.

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

I think your still mistaken on the difference between boost creep and boost spikes. Just because the boost rises very fast all of a sudden, does not mean its boost creep for sure.

How your describing the boost pattern it sounds more like creep to me.

So what does the boost pattern look like against RPMs?

A boost spike would look something like 10-10-10-15-13-10-10

Where boost creep would be 10-10-12-14-15-15-15

rotarshapedballs

to answer your question, if you are not consuming coolant dont worry. my car smokes a bit too, mind you im in michigan so the weather is up and down a lot. usually smokes right on start up on cold days. kind of confused why you are running 110 though but to each his own.