Where to get stronger hose clamps?
Where to get stronger hose clamps?
I want to get new hose clamps for all my intake hoses, ones that wont thread out if you screw them down tight (standard hose clamps). Ive seen them before, but the auto parts store doesnt carry them, who does? Id prefer not to order them online, Id like to just go pick them up today if possible. Thanks.
I would suggest T-Bolt Clamps, great for intake and IC piping, I don't know where to localy buy them but ebay has plenty for great price, worth buying in my opinion.
You may try local auto shops, it's possible to find them but you will be wasting more gas running around than what you would pay for shipping. lol.
You may try local auto shops, it's possible to find them but you will be wasting more gas running around than what you would pay for shipping. lol.
You most likely won't find T-bolt clamps locally. But, if you have problems with the stock hose clamps stripping out, a new set of worm drive clamps will work great.
Worm drive clamps do eventually wear out. They don't have to be SUPER tight, but if you tighten them with a nutdriver they'll be just right. You can get good quality worm drive clamps at Home Depot or Lowes, though, that are big enough for the IC pipes and intake pipes.
Dale
Worm drive clamps do eventually wear out. They don't have to be SUPER tight, but if you tighten them with a nutdriver they'll be just right. You can get good quality worm drive clamps at Home Depot or Lowes, though, that are big enough for the IC pipes and intake pipes.
Dale
Stock boost levels? If so your tightening the clamps to tight.
I have the 3rd style (right side) on my IC pipes, they work fine but they are a PIA since the only socket I have that fits them is a 11mm deep.
I have the 3rd style (right side) on my IC pipes, they work fine but they are a PIA since the only socket I have that fits them is a 11mm deep.
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Originally Posted by turbojeff
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I think there is nothing wrong with the stock worm-drive clamps. When tightening them, don't tighten the snot out of them, that's the trick. Snug them down and make sure the tag end of the clamp stays nice and straight. It's when the loose end starts getting crooked that the worm gear eats up the holes in the band.
Dave
Originally Posted by turbojeff
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Originally Posted by turbojeff
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Ahem, I have a drag race car and will run over 25lbs of boost. At that boost level you find out real fast how durable worm drive style clamps are...
Couplers blowing off sound like sombody fired a shotgun under your hood
Constant torque clamps (the first two in the McMaster pic) should stay tight more reliably. For normal worm-drive clamps (with no spring), heat cycling works them loose. The ones with springs can grow and shrink as they heat cycle while maintaining some tension, so they don't work loose. The third on in the McMaster pic looks like it has a nylock nut on it, which should also keep it from working loose even though it doesn't have a spring.
-Max
-Max
Originally Posted by Mike M
What are the stock clamps on the hoses connected to the air filter box called? They are difficult to remove without a special tool. Which clamps would you recommend replacing them with?
If you are refering to the spring clamps on the stock intake hoses, I just use Channelox (or however its spelled).
Originally Posted by Mike M
What are the stock clamps on the hoses connected to the air filter box called?
They are difficult to remove without a special tool.
Which clamps would you recommend replacing them with?








