Where does stock AST usually "crack"?
Where does stock AST usually "crack"?
Muthaf'er.
I just got my car back from the body shop after a 6 week long paintjob. Cruised home very easily never hitting boost, parked it in the garage, dried it off, and popped the hood to take a look at the rotartyness. After peeking around for a minute, I looked at the AST (stock 85k old) and there was coolant all around it. I couldnt see any cracks, but it was surrounding the area where the 2 plastic pieces of the AST "connect". There was a good amount of it lying there. So as my heart dropped so did my bank account. This is my daily driver and this blows...I am freaked to drive it. So my question is: when people say the AST cracks, do they mean it will literally crack or will it show the symptoms I am seeing? This blows
, but I am glad I caught it in the garage and didnt find out it cracked at an intersection...
TIA
-Dan
I just got my car back from the body shop after a 6 week long paintjob. Cruised home very easily never hitting boost, parked it in the garage, dried it off, and popped the hood to take a look at the rotartyness. After peeking around for a minute, I looked at the AST (stock 85k old) and there was coolant all around it. I couldnt see any cracks, but it was surrounding the area where the 2 plastic pieces of the AST "connect". There was a good amount of it lying there. So as my heart dropped so did my bank account. This is my daily driver and this blows...I am freaked to drive it. So my question is: when people say the AST cracks, do they mean it will literally crack or will it show the symptoms I am seeing? This blows
, but I am glad I caught it in the garage and didnt find out it cracked at an intersection...TIA
-Dan
I just put in the Pettit AST over last weekend, during my coolant flush. Good thing too, because as I pulled my stock AST (82k miles) I did notice the seams starting to split. Change it now!
As RX-7 Elmo says, change it now. Don't take a chance on ruining your engine. If you don't have the $ for a metal AST, you can do the mod which eliminates the AST. But if you're smart, you won't drive the car again until you get it fixed.
Well, you can always put in a new stocker for about $80.00, but I think metal is a better investment over the long run.
The high underhood temps cause it to swell and contract until there is a catastophic seam failure, followed by Teflon encapsulated O rings in your brand new rebuild!
According to one mechanic I know they (Mazduh) changed the design of later units to keep them sealed.
Hard to believe.
They all weep before they explode, but it's pretty hard to see underneath the seam unless you have an inspection mirror and really bright light. I just look at mine every week as part of a quick inspection for other potential leaks, etc. Time well spent.
Don't drive at all until you replace it - which takes all of 15 minutes.
The high underhood temps cause it to swell and contract until there is a catastophic seam failure, followed by Teflon encapsulated O rings in your brand new rebuild!
According to one mechanic I know they (Mazduh) changed the design of later units to keep them sealed.
Hard to believe.
They all weep before they explode, but it's pretty hard to see underneath the seam unless you have an inspection mirror and really bright light. I just look at mine every week as part of a quick inspection for other potential leaks, etc. Time well spent.
Don't drive at all until you replace it - which takes all of 15 minutes.
Last edited by RonKMiller; Aug 28, 2002 at 07:26 PM.
Thanks for the input guys. I kinda figured I should replace it with what I am seeing, but I was sorta trying to convince myself it was fine cause I was so excited to get it back and drive it...I guess I will have to wait another week. Oh well
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