i have the PFC and my air temps are close to 60 C which is about 140F. is that too high?

 

I never boost the car when they're that high. What mods do you have, and under what exact conditions are you seeing 60 degree intake temps?

 

cruising around in this heat, i sometimes see 60, but usually 49. Definite loss of power with these temps. No knock though. Heat soaked IC, I guess. Cruising temps around 92, as high as 105-106 on boost. Sucks.

 

damn man, 106? Do you have the stock rad? Also, do you run the fans while driving w/the a/c trick? I never see much above 90 on the street in the texas summers.....

 

No, aluminum radiator from AWR (same as mazda comp), front mount IC doesn't help either. I think my Evan's might be contaminated. Test strip was iffy, and they only sent one. I haven't sent off a sample yet. I usually see around 89-90 regular driving, but yeah 106 with sustained/repeated boost.

 

oh yeah, don't need the a/c trick, have the datalogit.

 

45 C to 47 C @ speed in 82 F ambient temps with a front mount intercooler. See my sig

 

Speaking of cooling, remember that the oil coolers are significant as well. Inadequate cooling from the oil cooler(s), places greater stress on the radiator/coolant system. A FMIC doesn't aid the cause either. I'm going to upgrade to a bigger dual system a bit later, as the single oil cooler on my touring really isn't enough.

 

Those with the high air intake temps need to relocate your air intake temp sensor. Your sensor is getting heat soaked and takes forever to cool down. If relocated, it can still heat soak but will recover quicker. Mine is located in the intake pipe right after the IC outlet, others have located it to the IC outlet end tank or throttle body elbow.

I'm using a CWR IC (large stock mount) intercooler and see no higher than 41-C after numerous 3rd/4th gear passes with ambient around 30-C. In traffic or if I park the car for a short time it will climb to as high as 60-C but starts falling rather quickly once I start moving.

Do a search for "relocate air intake temp sensor" and you'll find some more info. There is also some good discussion of this on the Datalogit mailing list archives.

Jack

 

I'm not sure that's a good idea. Yes, the sensor may get heat-soaked, but so does the UIM. If you relocate your IAT sensor, you are going to be reading a lower temp than what your motor is seeing. Your ecu will not retard the timing as much and then........

 

my mods are:
full exhaust,MP,Dp.
race ported motor with non seq twins
apex intake
greddy SMIC
PFC with 850s and 1300s
greddy pullies
stock radiator.

i only hit 60C after a hard pass at the track. when i'm driving normal, i only get about 40-50C.
plus Texas weather doesn't help at all

 

Hello Mr. Zooq,

I didn't know you were in Texas as well. Whereabouts?
The DFW crew is always looking for another FD to help terrorize the local populace

 

Actually just the opposite. The sensor reads hot due to its contact with the UIM, but the actual fresh charge air going into the motor is likely not that hot. What is happening is, the computer reads those hot temps and starts dumping a bunch of fuel in there to compensate when it doesn't need to... the air is actually cooler..

I know mine starts backfiring terribly once that temp passes 50c.

 

i live in Lubbock. but i've been to gotham before and have met Steve and Chris.
by the way, did you guys hit 120F in Bagdad yet? i'm going to my home Qatar next week and Texas's summer is almost like winter compared to the fucked up summer in the arabian gulf.

 

Ah, ok, cool. Well, stop by Gotham again in about 6 weeks and I should be there w/stevo and chris. It's about 120 here at noon. Crazy ******* hot. I don't think an FD can survive in an environment like this.....

 

wow..me too...i was wondering what was causing the backfire at the track yesterday.

I see as low as 25C in the am driving at speed. I saw 50s and 60s yesterday at lime rock in 85 degrees and after numerous hard laps.

I also saw water temps at 110C...again after numerous laps of very hard track driving in 85F weather. I quickly took a cool down lap and/or pitted. Any ideas as to why i saw such high water temps? Will a rad correct this? Isnt that still high even with stock rad?

 

110 is pretty high, but if you get a aftermarket radiator it should reduce that number. I wish I lived closer to lime rock. My intake temps will heat soak to about 60 when in traffic, but fall quickly to around 35 when cruising at speed.

 

I was seeing upwards of 110c at summit point (JC) a few weekends ago in 90 ambiant, very humid conditions. I already have a Fluidyne thats fairly well ducted. I'm thinking its time for CWR dual oil coolers. GB anyone?

I had to back it down to 10 psi, because intake temps were bery high, and i was starting to misfire after about 10 laps.

 

I noticed some scary water temps at my last time trial .... 115C and 117C!!!

Most of that I believe is the increased boost (13psi) through what eventually becomes an inefficient intercooler (SMIC Greddy). Too small, and easily heat-soaked after a couple laps. I believe ambient was low 90's. I have an R1, so I've already got the dual oil coolers .... perhaps ptrhahn is onto something about the upgraded oil coolers.

I think peak intake temps were in the high 50's .... 56-58C. Need a bigger intercooler.

 

The Power FC starts retarding ignition (and thus power) when water temps reach 110 C. For this reason, it's probably worth cutting the boost back in warm weather--perhaps down to 0.75 or 0.80 kg/cm^2 (10.7 or 11.4 psi). A boost setting of 0.90 kg/cm^2 (12.8 psi) is a bit high IMHO for ambient temps in the 90s.

FWIW, my boost was set to 0.80 Kilo @ 60% solenoid base duty cycle. Ambient temps @ Putnam Park were 85ish. Water temps climbed steadily to a peak of 115 C (239 F) after a 90% potential 20-minute lapping session. Of course with the GReddy Type 24 V-spec FMIC, AITs were 45 to 47 C LOL

 

SleepR1, I think its time for big oil coolers.

 

Maybe, or maybe I just need to duct the radiator better??

 

i dont under understand why people say to duct the rad....isnt it right in the front of the car ..right in the line of nice fresh air?

 

the only 'ducting' of the rad i've heard is to seal up all the open spots around the sides of it to force the air through it instead of letting some around.

 

Ditto. I think that's what their referring to--more efficient airflow management.