whats considered high intake temp?
#3
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cruising around in this heat, i sometimes see 60, but usually 49. Definite loss of power with these temps. No knock though. Heat soaked IC, I guess. Cruising temps around 92, as high as 105-106 on boost. Sucks.
#4
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Originally posted by weaklink
cruising around in this heat, i sometimes see 60, but usually 49. Definite loss of power with these temps. No knock though. Heat soaked IC, I guess. Cruising temps around 92, as high as 105-106 on boost. Sucks.
cruising around in this heat, i sometimes see 60, but usually 49. Definite loss of power with these temps. No knock though. Heat soaked IC, I guess. Cruising temps around 92, as high as 105-106 on boost. Sucks.
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No, aluminum radiator from AWR (same as mazda comp), front mount IC doesn't help either. I think my Evan's might be contaminated. Test strip was iffy, and they only sent one. I haven't sent off a sample yet. I usually see around 89-90 regular driving, but yeah 106 with sustained/repeated boost.
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#8
Speaking of cooling, remember that the oil coolers are significant as well. Inadequate cooling from the oil cooler(s), places greater stress on the radiator/coolant system. A FMIC doesn't aid the cause either. I'm going to upgrade to a bigger dual system a bit later, as the single oil cooler on my touring really isn't enough.
#9
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Those with the high air intake temps need to relocate your air intake temp sensor. Your sensor is getting heat soaked and takes forever to cool down. If relocated, it can still heat soak but will recover quicker. Mine is located in the intake pipe right after the IC outlet, others have located it to the IC outlet end tank or throttle body elbow.
I'm using a CWR IC (large stock mount) intercooler and see no higher than 41-C after numerous 3rd/4th gear passes with ambient around 30-C. In traffic or if I park the car for a short time it will climb to as high as 60-C but starts falling rather quickly once I start moving.
Do a search for "relocate air intake temp sensor" and you'll find some more info. There is also some good discussion of this on the Datalogit mailing list archives.
Jack
I'm using a CWR IC (large stock mount) intercooler and see no higher than 41-C after numerous 3rd/4th gear passes with ambient around 30-C. In traffic or if I park the car for a short time it will climb to as high as 60-C but starts falling rather quickly once I start moving.
Do a search for "relocate air intake temp sensor" and you'll find some more info. There is also some good discussion of this on the Datalogit mailing list archives.
Jack
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Originally posted by Trout2
Those with the high air intake temps need to relocate your air intake temp sensor.
Jack
Those with the high air intake temps need to relocate your air intake temp sensor.
Jack
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my mods are:
full exhaust,MP,Dp.
race ported motor with non seq twins
apex intake
greddy SMIC
PFC with 850s and 1300s
greddy pullies
stock radiator.
i only hit 60C after a hard pass at the track. when i'm driving normal, i only get about 40-50C.
plus Texas weather doesn't help at all
full exhaust,MP,Dp.
race ported motor with non seq twins
apex intake
greddy SMIC
PFC with 850s and 1300s
greddy pullies
stock radiator.
i only hit 60C after a hard pass at the track. when i'm driving normal, i only get about 40-50C.
plus Texas weather doesn't help at all
#12
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Originally posted by zooq
my mods are:
full exhaust,MP,Dp.
race ported motor with non seq twins
apex intake
greddy SMIC
PFC with 850s and 1300s
greddy pullies
stock radiator.
i only hit 60C after a hard pass at the track. when i'm driving normal, i only get about 40-50C.
plus Texas weather doesn't help at all
my mods are:
full exhaust,MP,Dp.
race ported motor with non seq twins
apex intake
greddy SMIC
PFC with 850s and 1300s
greddy pullies
stock radiator.
i only hit 60C after a hard pass at the track. when i'm driving normal, i only get about 40-50C.
plus Texas weather doesn't help at all
I didn't know you were in Texas as well. Whereabouts?
The DFW crew is always looking for another FD to help terrorize the local populace
#13
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Actually just the opposite. The sensor reads hot due to its contact with the UIM, but the actual fresh charge air going into the motor is likely not that hot. What is happening is, the computer reads those hot temps and starts dumping a bunch of fuel in there to compensate when it doesn't need to... the air is actually cooler..
I know mine starts backfiring terribly once that temp passes 50c.
I know mine starts backfiring terribly once that temp passes 50c.
Originally posted by rynberg
I'm not sure that's a good idea. Yes, the sensor may get heat-soaked, but so does the UIM. If you relocate your IAT sensor, you are going to be reading a lower temp than what your motor is seeing. Your ecu will not retard the timing as much and then........
I'm not sure that's a good idea. Yes, the sensor may get heat-soaked, but so does the UIM. If you relocate your IAT sensor, you are going to be reading a lower temp than what your motor is seeing. Your ecu will not retard the timing as much and then........
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Originally posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Hello Mr. Zooq,
I didn't know you were in Texas as well. Whereabouts?
The DFW crew is always looking for another FD to help terrorize the local populace
Hello Mr. Zooq,
I didn't know you were in Texas as well. Whereabouts?
The DFW crew is always looking for another FD to help terrorize the local populace
by the way, did you guys hit 120F in Bagdad yet? i'm going to my home Qatar next week and Texas's summer is almost like winter compared to the fucked up summer in the arabian gulf.
#15
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Originally posted by zooq
i live in Lubbock. but i've been to gotham before and have met Steve and Chris.
by the way, did you guys hit 120F in Bagdad yet? i'm going to my home Qatar next week and Texas's summer is almost like winter compared to the fucked up summer in the arabian gulf.
i live in Lubbock. but i've been to gotham before and have met Steve and Chris.
by the way, did you guys hit 120F in Bagdad yet? i'm going to my home Qatar next week and Texas's summer is almost like winter compared to the fucked up summer in the arabian gulf.
#16
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Originally posted by ptrhahn
I know mine starts backfiring terribly once that temp passes 50c.
I know mine starts backfiring terribly once that temp passes 50c.
I see as low as 25C in the am driving at speed. I saw 50s and 60s yesterday at lime rock in 85 degrees and after numerous hard laps.
I also saw water temps at 110C...again after numerous laps of very hard track driving in 85F weather. I quickly took a cool down lap and/or pitted. Any ideas as to why i saw such high water temps? Will a rad correct this? Isnt that still high even with stock rad?
Last edited by matty; 06-30-03 at 07:04 AM.
#18
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I was seeing upwards of 110c at summit point (JC) a few weekends ago in 90 ambiant, very humid conditions. I already have a Fluidyne thats fairly well ducted. I'm thinking its time for CWR dual oil coolers. GB anyone?
I had to back it down to 10 psi, because intake temps were bery high, and i was starting to misfire after about 10 laps.
I had to back it down to 10 psi, because intake temps were bery high, and i was starting to misfire after about 10 laps.
Originally posted by matty
wow..me too...i was wondering what was causing the backfire at the track yesterday.
I see as low as 25C in the am driving at speed. I saw 50s and 60s yesterday at lime rock in 85 degrees and after numerous hard laps.
I also saw water temps at 110C...again after numerous laps of very hard track driving in 85F weather. I quickly took a cool down lap and/or pitted. Any ideas as to why i saw such high water temps? Will a rad correct this? Isnt that still high even with stock rad?
wow..me too...i was wondering what was causing the backfire at the track yesterday.
I see as low as 25C in the am driving at speed. I saw 50s and 60s yesterday at lime rock in 85 degrees and after numerous hard laps.
I also saw water temps at 110C...again after numerous laps of very hard track driving in 85F weather. I quickly took a cool down lap and/or pitted. Any ideas as to why i saw such high water temps? Will a rad correct this? Isnt that still high even with stock rad?
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I noticed some scary water temps at my last time trial .... 115C and 117C!!!
Most of that I believe is the increased boost (13psi) through what eventually becomes an inefficient intercooler (SMIC Greddy). Too small, and easily heat-soaked after a couple laps. I believe ambient was low 90's. I have an R1, so I've already got the dual oil coolers .... perhaps ptrhahn is onto something about the upgraded oil coolers.
I think peak intake temps were in the high 50's .... 56-58C. Need a bigger intercooler.
Most of that I believe is the increased boost (13psi) through what eventually becomes an inefficient intercooler (SMIC Greddy). Too small, and easily heat-soaked after a couple laps. I believe ambient was low 90's. I have an R1, so I've already got the dual oil coolers .... perhaps ptrhahn is onto something about the upgraded oil coolers.
I think peak intake temps were in the high 50's .... 56-58C. Need a bigger intercooler.
#20
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The Power FC starts retarding ignition (and thus power) when water temps reach 110 C. For this reason, it's probably worth cutting the boost back in warm weather--perhaps down to 0.75 or 0.80 kg/cm^2 (10.7 or 11.4 psi). A boost setting of 0.90 kg/cm^2 (12.8 psi) is a bit high IMHO for ambient temps in the 90s.
FWIW, my boost was set to 0.80 Kilo @ 60% solenoid base duty cycle. Ambient temps @ Putnam Park were 85ish. Water temps climbed steadily to a peak of 115 C (239 F) after a 90% potential 20-minute lapping session. Of course with the GReddy Type 24 V-spec FMIC, AITs were 45 to 47 C LOL
FWIW, my boost was set to 0.80 Kilo @ 60% solenoid base duty cycle. Ambient temps @ Putnam Park were 85ish. Water temps climbed steadily to a peak of 115 C (239 F) after a 90% potential 20-minute lapping session. Of course with the GReddy Type 24 V-spec FMIC, AITs were 45 to 47 C LOL
Last edited by SleepR1; 06-30-03 at 07:59 PM.
#25
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Originally posted by airborne
the only 'ducting' of the rad i've heard is to seal up all the open spots around the sides of it to force the air through it instead of letting some around.
the only 'ducting' of the rad i've heard is to seal up all the open spots around the sides of it to force the air through it instead of letting some around.