AWD-RWD racer

iTrader: (5)

For suspension heres what I have........

Koni Yellow adjustable shocks, w/ Eibach springs, and RE rear toe-links


anytime I go to do a burnout, either when wet or dry, I get horrible wheel hop. if I go to spin the car around its fine. but from a dead stop trying to do the burnout is when I get the vibrations and wheel hop. ....any way to prevent this from happening??? thanks

Nuvolari

iTrader: (4)

http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=difbrace

Diff brace will stop the hop. Watch how much hop you get, its going to break something eventualy.

afterburn27

iTrader: (5)

Some aftermarket diff bushings will help too. The stockers are fluid filled rubber, which is great for comfort...

AWD-RWD racer

iTrader: (5)

do you suggest ne thing thats good for comfort but also good for preventing hop..kind of a happy middle?..i dont race it really at all. just like to show off sometimes at the local events.

airborne

I have the same suspension along with toe links and trailing arms and also get bad hop. My next step is rx7.com solid diff bushings. I would suggest replacing any worn bushings before you add any braces. They're cheaper at $119 though its a PITA job from what i've read.

showoff

sometimes mine hop, when i drop it low(under 4.5k) sometimes it hops but when i pop the clutch around 5k or higher all i get is smoke

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

Solid Diff bushings will cure that. Had the same problem on several of my cars. Each received solid diff bushings and *poof* no more wheel hop. Not done it on my RX yet, though.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

What bushings have you replaced? Could your diff bushings be bad or loose? Do the trailing arm or toe link bushings have any play?

(IMHO, it makes no sense to jump to a solid bushing if the stock parts are simply worn out)

Dave

jones94

pettit racing sells a street diff bushing set that is suppose to cure wheel hop but not ride as harsh as solid race bushings.

AWD-RWD racer

iTrader: (5)

^^ cool thanks,,,how about the Diff brace? will that make it a harsh ride? its bumpy as it is. I dont wanna feel everysingle bump and curve on the road.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you just want to show off for a few events here and there, try dropping your rear tire pressure down. I imagine you normally run around 30 PSI or so. Try dropping it down to the low 20's.

Rayman93RX7

iTrader: (4)

you'd want to raise the pressure to make the contact patch smaller thus less grip and less wheel hop, lowering the pressure will only make it worse. Try sliping the clutch a little more too not just rev'in it to the moon and side-stepping it's the suden shock of enguagement makes the wheels hop more.

Get the diff. brace and the bushings that will last you till you blow your stock diff. then you can buy a new case($$$) cuz you'll crack it and then you should get an upgraded LSD ($$$) so you can keep on doing mad burnouts yo and keep up your street cred... and you can keep racing dem Hondas, DSMs, and Sion TCs and some day reach you're goal to be king of the streets!! But wait that new moive Toykio Ricer Drifft-crash came out so you best be getin' up on your driffin' skills watch out for flying 350Zs ........... lol I couldn't resist, ah I feel better

slyez

I had same prob, tried all bushings/pillow ***** in rear, then diff bushings, finally changed engine mounts and that was the culprit. I imagine that engine mounts are a common cause for wheel hop. Also, don't get solid diff bushings, they are miserable on the street, poly engine mounts are less bad. IMHO

DrunkenBowler

Bigger turbo and turn up the boost. Your wheel hop should disappear.

TurboTagTeam

I have upgraded motor mounts but stock diffmounts and trailing arms. I get massive wheel hop. That's why I don't do burnouts

FLA94FD

I don't get wheel hop with slipping the clutch at 5500-6000 rpm. Fair amount of wheel spin all the way through 1st. Acceleration is on par or a little better than a C6 vette. I will not do standing burnouts and will back off the fist sign of wheel hop. Failure of the rear suspension can lead to rather costly repairs, been there.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

The softer tire will dampen out any tendency to wheel hop. Inflate it more, and it will just become more springy and want to bounce like a basketball.

Dave

zinx

iTrader: (3)

I have a KG diff brace, RE Toe Links, RE Trailing Arms, Pettit Racing Diff Bushings, and a Kaaz and i still get wheel hop sometimes, its just the nature of a IRS. Softer tires will be my only cure.

DT racer

Old thread I found but for someones latter searchs - My 450HP GTO solid axle car and had the same problem at the track. So it isn't just IRS rear ends. I read an article years ago that described what wheel hop really is:

You hit the throttle, torque goes through the drive line to the wheels and turns tires, tires start to push the weight of the car ahead.
But its HARD to get 2500 to 3000 Lbs moving quick (tried pushing a car lately?) And Torque is like water, it goes the path of least resistance. IF it finds its easier to twist the rear end up than move the car ahead, it will (every action has an opposite and equal reaction).

Think of the way the drivers side tire is trying to turn (counterclockwise looking at the drivers side from the curb), that means the torque is also trying to twist the rear axle housing clockwise - which for our purposes means forcing the front of the housing where the driveshaft connects -UP

So 'Momentarily'..It becomes easier for some of the torque to twist the nose of the rear end UP instead of drive the tires. If you have older bushings, etc this would be magnified. Also, the more HP you have the more it aggrevates it, thats why the more power I made with my GTO, the more unruly it got.

HERES THE REAL KICKER> the rear housing can only turn UP until it hits the stops. Then all the force has to go to the tires trying to push the car ahead again. So all of a sudden you get 100% of the torque back to the tires. The tires cant handle the power and they spin. NOW, its easiest for the torque to keep spinning the tires. And the rear axle now relaxes back down to its proper spot cause the torque is all spent on spinning tires...until they get hot and grab. Then it all starts ALL OVER AGAIN, in milliseconds. Thats why it goes BANG/BANG/BANG and you see the tires litterly hopping as the tires grab/rear end windsUP then stops/tires spin/ rear unwinds, tires heat-grab again/rear windsUp..etc till you take your foot out or something breaks (OUCH).
Pretty amazing all the forces at work considering theres over 1 ton of weight on both rear tires.

Now you know WHAT it is. The cure is in previous posts: You can buy 'anti-hop bars' but the ride suffers - it changes the suspension geometry - thats why cars dont come with them from the factory. Remember a car is a rolling comprimise built for the public. It has to do several things well. If you choose to change/build a car to do one thing really really well, it usually cant do much else. Drag cars cant wheel hop because they have 4link drag suspensions. But then there not so fun on a rough backstreet either. And dont try Mosport.

So for sure new bushings and mounts, try adjusting tire pressures, newer better shocks/springs? You can add an RX7's version of an 'anti-hop bar' if your determined or you can try what I did after bushings and shocks/springs still weren't enough - put air-bags in the rear springs and pump them up to firm up the rear suspension. Worked at the track for me, maybe for you when your going to show-off.

Or last and not anywhere as much fun, take your foot out of it and live with it.

Authentikdit

So will his motor