what rpm range should i shift with midpipe and downpipe
12-29-01, 10:29 AM
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
I prefer to shift at 1500 rpm. I don't want to be too hard on the car. This way I get great gas mileage, and the motor should last forever.
Sometimes, I get in the car and make vroom vroom noises with it off to save even more money and be easier on the car.
But my friends tell me shift at whatever rpm I want, preferably on the south side of redline.
the_saint
Sometimes, I get in the car and make vroom vroom noises with it off to save even more money and be easier on the car.
But my friends tell me shift at whatever rpm I want, preferably on the south side of redline.
the_saint
12-29-01, 11:19 AM
#6
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
shift just before the fuel cut, **** the redline... it's not like it's going to throw a rod... I spin my engine to 9500 rpm in every gear, all the time with all stock seals including the apex's with no problems... as long as it's got the proper a/f mixture you won't kill it...
12-29-01, 12:39 PM
#7
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Man I never redline my car, I hardly ever even get close to the 4500 range I stay in the 3-4 range. I just feel like I'm beating my car. Is it not bad to shift at high rpms. Aren't you putting stress on the engine.
Kam how do u like the midpipe? I'm thinking about getting one too.
Mike
Kam how do u like the midpipe? I'm thinking about getting one too.
Mike
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12-29-01, 12:46 PM
#8
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
What's the point in having one of the best sports cars in the world if you not going to rail the **** out of it... Besides a Rotory will take it no problem as long as it is tunned right... O' and I build my own engines...
12-29-01, 12:50 PM
#9
IRS 4 Life
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not trying to flame anyone..but why buy the car if your not gonna use its potental...i mean i love pushin my car as hard as i can- theres nothing like pushin the car to its limits... i mean around town crusin i shift@ lik 3k 3500 but when i geat ANY and i do mean any chance to open it up redline here i come
mabe its b/c im young and stupid, or just b/c im an adrenline junky, who knows..my car gets mad when i let it idle or drive slow..it only likes to go fast...lucky me
runin the car to redline prob has less stress then stop and go driving, our cars were designed as race cars so thats how i drive mine
mabe its b/c im young and stupid, or just b/c im an adrenline junky, who knows..my car gets mad when i let it idle or drive slow..it only likes to go fast...lucky me
runin the car to redline prob has less stress then stop and go driving, our cars were designed as race cars so thats how i drive mine
12-29-01, 01:07 PM
#12
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Originally posted by m0t03
I just feel bad like I'm hurting my baby
I just feel bad like I'm hurting my baby
12-29-01, 01:44 PM
#13
addicted to lounge
Doesn't the second turbo kick in at something like 5-5500 rpms...so right there that tells you mazda designed the car to be taken high into the rpm range. I ussually drive it very softly and don't even boost at all, shifting at like 2k-2.5k. Once every couple of days I lose control though and take it through the gears hitting redline evry one. And of course anytime anything decent wants to race I'll redline the hell out of my car. I don't like to go up into the red though because I've heard thats where a lot of stress is put on the apex seals.
12-29-01, 02:31 PM
#15
You should actually keep the revs up, as that driving around in the 2-3K range will promote carbon build up.
Carbon build up is especially bad for rotories, as that the the rotors rely on the various seals (apex,side, etc) riding on 'springs'. That means the seals are designed to float (and therefore move). With carbon build up, the seals become 'stuck' over time, and can no longer seal up against the housing surface - leading to low/lost compression.
That's why it's just as bad to buy a rotary that has been babied, as one that has been 'ragged' out.
I typically shift at 3-4K, and try to keep revs of over 3K at all times. Spirited drving if you will.
Carbon build up is especially bad for rotories, as that the the rotors rely on the various seals (apex,side, etc) riding on 'springs'. That means the seals are designed to float (and therefore move). With carbon build up, the seals become 'stuck' over time, and can no longer seal up against the housing surface - leading to low/lost compression.
That's why it's just as bad to buy a rotary that has been babied, as one that has been 'ragged' out.
I typically shift at 3-4K, and try to keep revs of over 3K at all times. Spirited drving if you will.
12-29-01, 08:05 PM
#18
What's your point ?
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More than 500 miles on it ?????
MoTo3 If you have more than 500 miles on it your past the breakin period. The only thing your doing is building up carbon. Do you only drive it on weekends, never in the rain. Would be nice to find wone treated like that but you can have just as much trouble from a car that's been puttered around and sat as you do from one with allot of miles.
12-29-01, 08:26 PM
#19
Anytime you take a stock apex seal above 8,500rpms, you run the chance of breaking an apex seal. It not caused by the rpms, but by apex seal bounce. Some people are lucky, taking a factory steel apex seal to 9k, 9.5k day after day. However, I know that from experience, it only takes once to do break an apex seal from over-reving. Now ask yourself, (assuming stock ports, apex seals, etc) is it worth taking the chance of blowing up your engine/turbos, when the motor is'nt even making power up that high? My pockets are'nt bottomless, so i shift at the buzzer. CJ
12-29-01, 10:20 PM
#20
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Ok here's what you do... Go dyno your car and look at your power band.. Now find the peak hp in the power band, probably arond 7,500-8,500 rpm or so and add about 200 rpm to it and that's your shift point...
Also in a lot of Japanese Rags I've read over hear tunning shops recomend taking the car out and driving a sustained 4,500-5,500 rpm in 3rd gear for about 5-10min every now and then. They say it helps with blowing out carbon...
Other reason they say to not run past redline is because the eccentric shaft will flex causting the tips/corners of the rotor to come in contact with the end/center housings. Ie, big scratch, stuck corner seal, possible stuck apex seal... but you won't have problems with this until about 10,000 rpm and up......
Also in a lot of Japanese Rags I've read over hear tunning shops recomend taking the car out and driving a sustained 4,500-5,500 rpm in 3rd gear for about 5-10min every now and then. They say it helps with blowing out carbon...
Other reason they say to not run past redline is because the eccentric shaft will flex causting the tips/corners of the rotor to come in contact with the end/center housings. Ie, big scratch, stuck corner seal, possible stuck apex seal... but you won't have problems with this until about 10,000 rpm and up......
12-29-01, 11:28 PM
#21
I Like Beer
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My FD is off-line for the winter, but I start it up and move it around every week.
I would feel as though I was SHIRKING MY DUTY if I didn't run it over 7K after warmup.
The HELL what the neighbours think!
I would feel as though I was SHIRKING MY DUTY if I didn't run it over 7K after warmup.
The HELL what the neighbours think!
12-29-01, 11:38 PM
#22
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when i kept my 7 at 6-7k in 3rd for around 2 minutes, it would start to shoot up smoke, so i just drive very "spiritedly." I think its signs of a rebuild, unless the motor has sooo much carbon that it smokes up more than my friends car inside 
But to be on topic, when im flooring it, i shift at 7200 ish, a little after 7k. But everyone has their own "feel" with their cars, some people like to hear the rotor motor whine, other shift at peak power, others dont pull it past 4.
But to be on topic, when im flooring it, i shift at 7200 ish, a little after 7k. But everyone has their own "feel" with their cars, some people like to hear the rotor motor whine, other shift at peak power, others dont pull it past 4.
12-31-01, 07:37 AM
#23
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Originally posted by pp13bnos
Anytime you take a stock apex seal above 8,500rpms, you run the chance of breaking an apex seal. It not caused by the rpms, but by apex seal bounce.
Anytime you take a stock apex seal above 8,500rpms, you run the chance of breaking an apex seal. It not caused by the rpms, but by apex seal bounce.
~Tom
12-31-01, 09:21 PM
#24
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...like the saying goes...DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT...
I do kind of feel like I'm raping my baby by doing this...but DAMN that's some good pootang
I do kind of feel like I'm raping my baby by doing this...but DAMN that's some good pootang
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