What to replace when re-painting?
#1
What to replace when re-painting?
I'm in the planning stages of a repaint. I vaguely remember someone posting a list of parts to replace when re-painting / re-spraying the car. Things like exterior trim pieces etc. Can't find the thread though...
Anyone have a list? Would like to add it to the FAQ and order some parts from Ray Crowe.
Thanks.
Anyone have a list? Would like to add it to the FAQ and order some parts from Ray Crowe.
Thanks.
#2
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
I don’t have a list but the first thing that came to mind is the belt-line molding…at the bottom of the door windows. IIRC they’re kind of a pita to get off without breaking those fragile clips.And I think windshield and hatch glass trim moldings are getting tough to source.
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gracer7-rx7 (01-09-24)
#3
The belt line moldings are meant to be removed from inside the door. You have to roll the window all the way down, reach in the door frame and release each of those white clips and kind of walk the thing out. Each clip has 3 prongs. It's incredibly tedious but necessary if you want to reuse them.
Nothing necessarily HAS to be replaced. A good body shop can successfully mask around the glass moldings without making the end product look like they masked around the glass moldings. Everything else can be removed and reused as it is.
Doing full body paint like that would be a good time to shave rhe antenna hole. Those "hidden" antennas work very well and are a much cleaner solution if you just have to have am/fm.
Nothing necessarily HAS to be replaced. A good body shop can successfully mask around the glass moldings without making the end product look like they masked around the glass moldings. Everything else can be removed and reused as it is.
Doing full body paint like that would be a good time to shave rhe antenna hole. Those "hidden" antennas work very well and are a much cleaner solution if you just have to have am/fm.
#5
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
How deep are we getting?
At a minimum with fresh paint-
OEM Windshields are NLA
L & R Hood protectors pieces are NLA (On the hood behind the headlights)
It's also a good idea to clean and slick lube your window slide seals and service your wiper linkage if the cowl does come off.
At a minimum with fresh paint-
- FDY2-51-SH2 headlight lid
- FDY2-51-SH1 headlight lid
- Windshield seal w/ dam and corner pieces
- L & R Belt line molding
- L& R Drip rail moldings (around the top of the door)
- Hatch glass seal
- Sunroof Seal (If equipped. Only the metal panel seal is still available)
- Windshield washer sprayers (Late model fan style)
- L & R Door opening body welts (Body at pinch weld)
- L & R Door top finishers/window seat (Wraps around the top of the window frame)
- L & R Door weather strips (All around on the doors)
- L & R Door - lower trim panel weather strips (Along the bottom of the door on the inside face, the door panel touches it)
- L & R Exterior sails by the mirrors
- Antenna base or antenna assembly
- New windshield cowl with screws and caps
- New front and rear badges (USDM, Efini, "RX-7", etc.)
- New door handle assemblies (Bare are fine, swap your stuff onto them, if you do this consider replacing the lock shutters and polishing the trim ring)
- New headlight bezels
- New rear bumper valence
- New front bumper lip spoiler
- New door jamb switches
- Reproduction VIN sticker and OEM or Repro other Jamb area stickers (Recall, Tire)
- Under hood Stickers - OEM or repro
- New hood pad
- New hood prop rod clip
- New front bumper mounting brackets if yours get damaged
- New rear bumper mounting brackets if your get damaged (The lower bolts at the valence like to break)
OEM Windshields are NLA
L & R Hood protectors pieces are NLA (On the hood behind the headlights)
It's also a good idea to clean and slick lube your window slide seals and service your wiper linkage if the cowl does come off.
Last edited by Molotovman; 01-09-24 at 07:53 AM.
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coxxoc (01-12-24)
#6
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
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#7
Thats unfortunate... here in Florida and in North Carolina and all down the east coast, it works great. The stations come in nice and clear and the powered/amplified feature adds a nice level of calirty over the factory antenna. Sucks you weren't able to have a good experience for what is a great product.
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#8
Good list. Thanks fellas!
Definitely replacing the belt line molding and windshield molding. Maybe rear window too. Need to look at that one more closely.
Antenna hole is definitely getting filled. Rant On/ I'd rather listen to silence than radio where they seem to play more ads than music. I will actually be removing the radio soon and installing a bluetooth module so I can stream from my phone. /Rant Off
Definitely replacing the belt line molding and windshield molding. Maybe rear window too. Need to look at that one more closely.
Antenna hole is definitely getting filled. Rant On/ I'd rather listen to silence than radio where they seem to play more ads than music. I will actually be removing the radio soon and installing a bluetooth module so I can stream from my phone. /Rant Off
#9
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Given that so many items are NLA, and the ones still available OE are Porsche-level pricey, do yourself a favor and remove as much of it as you can before sending the car to the shop. Body shop people aren't as good as they once were, unfortunately. If your belt line molding, door welts, weatherstrip, etc. is good, better to take the time to do it yourself to ensure nothing gets broken.
Eventually, I'll have my car repainted. At that point, I'll even take the glass out before sending it to a paint shop. Just the suspension, so they can roll it around, but absolutely nothing otherwise. I learned this lesson the hard way. Many shops, these days, don't even want to paint whole vehicles, so the ones that do may not be the pick of the litter. That's the way it was for me, back in 2015.
Eventually, I'll have my car repainted. At that point, I'll even take the glass out before sending it to a paint shop. Just the suspension, so they can roll it around, but absolutely nothing otherwise. I learned this lesson the hard way. Many shops, these days, don't even want to paint whole vehicles, so the ones that do may not be the pick of the litter. That's the way it was for me, back in 2015.
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#10
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
Given that so many items are NLA, and the ones still available OE are Porsche-level pricey, do yourself a favor and remove as much of it as you can before sending the car to the shop. Body shop people aren't as good as they once were, unfortunately. If your belt line molding, door welts, weatherstrip, etc. is good, better to take the time to do it yourself to ensure nothing gets broken.
Eventually, I'll have my car repainted. At that point, I'll even take the glass out before sending it to a paint shop. Just the suspension, so they can roll it around, but absolutely nothing otherwise. I learned this lesson the hard way. Many shops, these days, don't even want to paint whole vehicles, so the ones that do may not be the pick of the litter. That's the way it was for me, back in 2015.
Eventually, I'll have my car repainted. At that point, I'll even take the glass out before sending it to a paint shop. Just the suspension, so they can roll it around, but absolutely nothing otherwise. I learned this lesson the hard way. Many shops, these days, don't even want to paint whole vehicles, so the ones that do may not be the pick of the litter. That's the way it was for me, back in 2015.
#12
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
I don’t have a list but the first thing that came to mind is the belt-line molding…at the bottom of the door windows. IIRC they’re kind of a pita to get off without breaking those fragile clips.And I think windshield and hatch glass trim moldings are getting tough to source.
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Molotovman (01-10-24)
#14
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
I’ve been holding myself up on blasting and painting a few brackets for a couple months now.
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#17
Full Member
iTrader: (4)
Roof / Quarter
Right Drip Rail -
Left Drip Rail -
Door
Right outer door trim -
Right door lower body seal -
Left door lower body seal -
Right side door seal -
Left side door seal -
Windshield Moulding (4 pieces)
lower windshield trim moulding (trim piece between the cowl and the bottom of the windshield)
top windshield trim -
protector, moulding front
Engine Bay / Cowl
grille, cowl
Hatch
hatch glass moulding -
hatch seal -
rear hatch window trim clip cover -
Rear Bumper
rear bumper valence (the black trim above the exhaust tip that melts)
right backup light assembly (red cover and bulb, harness)
left backup light assembly (red cover, bulb, harness)
F100-51-250B
left rear side marker
right rear side marker
Will update this as I go further...
Right Drip Rail -
FD01-50-510E
Left Drip Rail -
FD01-50-530E
Door
Right outer door trim -
FD01-50-640E
left outer door trim -FD01-50-650E
Right door lower body seal -
FD01-58-76XA
Left door lower body seal -
FD01-59-76XA
Right side door seal -
FD01-58-760E
Left side door seal -
FD01-59-760E
Windshield Moulding (4 pieces)
lower windshield trim moulding (trim piece between the cowl and the bottom of the windshield)
FD01-50-794A
top windshield trim -
FD01-50-6AXC
protector, moulding front
NA01-50-6B1
Engine Bay / Cowl
grille, cowl
FD01-50-790A
Hatch
hatch glass moulding -
FD01-50-6G0B
hatch seal -
FD01-62-761
rear hatch window trim clip cover -
FD01-50-615
Rear Bumper
rear bumper valence (the black trim above the exhaust tip that melts)
FD01-50-231A
right backup light assembly (red cover and bulb, harness)
F100-51-240B
left backup light assembly (red cover, bulb, harness)
F100-51-250B
left rear side marker
F138-51-5J0
right rear side marker
F138-51-5H0
Will update this as I go further...
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#18
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the thing to keep in mind is that Mazda assembled the body, painted it, and then put everything else on. so you, ideally; need to take enough stuff off to not have overspray in the wrong places.
second, the headlight lids are wear items, and come in primer (hoods, bumpers and fenders do too)
its kind of procedural, but since bad body work doesn't follow how Mazda did it, i'm actually looking for that stuff first, and can't un-see it
the alternate ending is that if you have any hope of being invited to show at Pebble Beach, it needs to be correct!
second, the headlight lids are wear items, and come in primer (hoods, bumpers and fenders do too)
its kind of procedural, but since bad body work doesn't follow how Mazda did it, i'm actually looking for that stuff first, and can't un-see it
the alternate ending is that if you have any hope of being invited to show at Pebble Beach, it needs to be correct!
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