mrgne

iTrader: (6)

I've got a pettit engine coming and I want to replace a lot of the things that are likely to fail. I never met the previous owner but I don't think he treated her the best. So far I've got:

Clutch kit (clutch disk, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing & seal, stainless clutch line)
Solenoids from saxyman990
Vacuum lines
UIM Gasket
LIM Gasket
Oil pan gasket
OMP Lines
Thermostat
Fuel Filter
Brake fluid (for clutch line replacement)
Redline MTL
Ignition wires
Misc Turbo Gaskets (I have some new ones laying around and I might as well use them)

and of course Oil and filter and air filter

Just wondering if I missed anything...

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

if the engine is out of the car then take advantage and change these parts:these are not general maintenance but things to consider.

1.The pulsation damper-known to leak and cause engine fire
2.AIT-fast acting air intake temperature censor
3.Oil pan brace
4.run premix if you want to minimize carbon build up.

There's a few others i just don't remember.

bajaman

I also replaced EVERY single rubber hose in the engine bay with new, factory Mazda parts...things like the heater hoses, all the lines from the AST, etc.

No better time to do it...

bc_fd3s

iTrader: (2)

your list is very small. ther are A LOT of misc washers/seals/orings that you are forgetting.

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

there are a hand full of things you should do before dropping that new engine.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*Check/re-torque tension bolts on motor before install.
*Figure a rear transmission seal.
*Experienced board wisdom says to NOT use the pan gasket. Sealant only. I second the oil pan brace.
*Unless they've been changed already, you'll probably need new motor mounts. OEM or aftermarket of your choice.
*Fuel Pulsation Dampner or do the delete ala BANZAI racing.
*Clean and flow test all four injectors while they're accessible. They should also come back with new 'O' rings and pintel caps.
*Coil harness
*Plugs
*Series 5 FC Thermoswitch
*Check engine harness and re-wrap as needed.
*Consider new copper crush washers and 'O' rings for OMP and lines (both ends)too.
*New 'O' rings for oil filter pedestal

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Is this a used engine? If so, I would go ahead and replace the rear main seal and o-ring while the engine is not installed.

mrgne

iTrader: (6)

1. Thanks, I'll buy one right now
2. I'm not entirely sold on the fast acting or the relocation just yet, but I def don't like the stock setup
3. Going with banzai racing
4. already bought some with the engine

Thanks, this is the kind of input that I was looking for.

mrgne

iTrader: (6)

kk, will do. Also planing on replacing the fuel lines on the engine with some stuff from the autoparts store cause I can't afford the stainless this time round.

mrgne

iTrader: (6)

I wouldn't have thought to re-torque the tension bolts, thanks. I just bought some tranny seals, oil pan brace, Himni motormount kit & stock FPD. So that stuff should be good. I was also already planning on sending the injectors to witchhunter for cleaning and they do come with o-rings and pintel caps. Most of the other stuff (plugs, oil filter pedestal o-rings) I already have.

Thanks for everything.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Try to time things so that your injectors don't sit too long on a shelf after being cleaned.