I bought my FD 11 months ago, I'm the 3rd owner. The 1st owner put all the mods and the 2nd owner just have no idea what's on the car. Anyway, here's the list of the visible mods:

Blitz Intercooler, HKS RS Intake, HKS Sequential Blow-off valve, HKS Downpipe.

Greddy Intake to Throttle body, Greddy Cat Back exhaust, Greddy Boost Gauge, Greddy EGT Gauge, Greddy Boost controller (Low - .5bar / High -1 bar), Greddy Turbo Timer, Greddy Pulley Upgrade, Aluminum AST - don't know what brand. The ECU looks stock.

The EGT never goes over 700 deg C at WOT (1 bar ~15 psi boost). The car backfires sometimes when I lift the gas pedal. Engine hasn't blown yet.

My question is, do I have an upgraded fuel pump and ECU?

Thanks for all the replies.

 

look behind the kick panel on the passenger side. that will deff tell you what ecu you have. With the mods you have listed, if you didn't have an upgraded ecu, your car would have popped a motor or 2 by now. Our car's will backfire after some tuning, so its a good sign that you are back firing, and not spitting out pieces of seals.

As for the upgraded fuel pump, take out that spare tire and start the lookin. We can't tell you what you have, but you can always get a couple of tools and tell us

 

Most ECU's will have a sticker on them if they've been chipped or modified. Failing that, open the ECU up and take a pic of it and post it - it's easy to tell if it has a daughterboard with a re-chipped ROM in the car.

Sounds like you got quite a few nice mods with the car!

Dale

 

I would have started worrying about what was keeping it healthy a little sooner, but that's just me...

Probably not, but there's no way we could tell you that unless you pull the pump and take a picture of it.

As Dale said, most reprogrammed ECUs have an external sticker or marking. M2/Mostly Mazda used a skull and crossbones with "Offroad-use Only" (or something similiar) on it, and mine had my name on it (to make sure they returned my '95 ECU and not someone else's ECU). If you have no sticker or external markings, pop open the ECU and take a picture.

If you're running ~15 psi and haven't lost an engine yet, I'd say it's safe to assume that you have a modified ECU.

 

You definitely have an aftermarket ECU, you would be hitting fuel cut like crazy on the high boost setting.

 

pics of the car?

 

yeah pics of the car, then we will surgically take it apart for you mod by mod

 

I will open up the trunk to check the fuel pump and the kick panel to check the ECU this weekend.

I'm at work right now and I'll upload the some pictures when I get home.

Thanks again.

 

Here's some pictures...

 

do u have a pic of the racing beat lip. I wanted to take a closer look at it.

 

I'm at work right now and will take a closer picture of the lip this weekend...

 

[QUOTE=jimlab]I would have started worrying about what was keeping it healthy a little sooner, but that's just me...

Yes Jimlab, I consider myself still an FD-Newbie. I just started seeing in the forum about 15 psi being already "high" boost for FD is also new to me and I just started getting nervous that's why I posted this question.

If you notice on one of the pictures I posted, I have a 91 GSX in which 15 psi is normal with just a manual boost controller, intake and exhaust mods.

 

My M2 Stage 3 ECU did not have any indication on the cover. I had to open it up and see if it was chipped or not.

 

Here's the Lip...

 

Here's the pics of the ECU. Its got a Greddy boost cut box attached to the cover..
I did not bother opening the fuel pump because the saw the screws are un-scratched, everything still looks new...

 

It's hard to tell, if you have an A/F guage and it reads stoich or richer I'd say its a reprogrammed ECU. If it's running really lean then guess what...

 

Yikes, it looks like you're running a stock ecu with an FCD (fuel cut defenser -- BAD), which also means you also have the stock injectors.

If I were you, I would lower your boost to 10 psi until you can ditch the FCD and buy a proper aftermarket ecu. You're quite lucky your engine isn't dead.

 

Umm...

1. a/f gauges using the stock o2 sensor are WORTHLESS. Only a wideband sensor and controller will give you accurate a/f readings at anything above cruise/light throttle.

2. Turboed rotaries like to run at 12:1 a/f or lower (11.5:1 or lower to be safe). A "rich" reading on a cheap a/f gauge could still be well into the danger zone.

 

Damn, stock ECU at 15 PSI.

 

can u say, "kaboom"?

 

can u say, "kaboom"? PS nice car lol

 

cant you tell if its a aftermarket fuel pump bout a louder "buzzing" sound from the rear of the car?

 

True, they are worthless with stock sensors. With the mods shown even the stock o2 sensor and a guage will let him know if he's sitting in the ballpark or sitting on a time bomb. And yes, a wideband will give you an accurate reading.. I run both, just to be safe..

 

Thanks for all the replies. I turned down the boost. I will not use the high boost setting. I'm just glad the engine is still running.

I guess its time to look into PowerFC or ECU upgrade.

 

I'll sell you my m2 stage III reprogrammed ecu. It is a good intermediate step if you don't want to go with the Power FC just yet.

Also, I just noticed that you are from west TN. What part? I'm in memphis.