My feelings were pretty hurt....

The ACT sprung 6-puck/ HD PP combo is pretty sweet for the price. By far a great choice for a 500whp setup for the budget minded.

 

anyone else have a non sprung 6puck?

 

Totally agree with this. Went from a spec sprung 6puck that gave me all sorts of problems before finally spitting a spring out between the clutch and pressure plate to an ACT sprung 6 and was amazed at how much better it was. I will never buy a spec product again. Also their customer service sucked (at least when I was dealing with them about 7 or 8 years ago).

 

Looped power steering rack...I don't mind not having PS, just the way it handles while it's looped is sometimes scary....

and a 4 puck clutch, just too noisy and almost intolerable when driving

 

i did & man was that a pain in the ***...
Anything under 30mph & the car jumps constantly.... people looking at me as if my cars dancing in the street


& agreed with the other person.... It does engage hard (real hard) But you have to compromise comfort for power...


& about the highway issue... Thats the reason why i take the highway instead of the street everywhere i go... Or else my left foot would be tired.


Went ACT 6puck sprung & like every1 said... It is a big difference

 

Ive gotten kinda used to it. it is a pain in traffic.. then i been driving my RHD with a stock clutch.. man is it so much drivable.

 

Ok I'm a little confused , isnt the 4 puck supposed to be more aggressive then the 6 puck? I DD my FD with an unsprung act 4 puck . and honestly I never have issues with it . apart from maybe the first week , and my car only made 300

Could the extra low end torque from stock ports make the difference?

 

I wouldn't think the power would make the differnce its the instant engaging.... regardless of power

 

I'd have to say that my least favorite mod was the PFC. That was one of the first things I did to my FD after buying it, and that little damned box was a gateway mod.. Once I had that done it just opened the door for mod after mod after mod after mod....

Here I am now, almost 7 years later with a stock steering wheel, stock seats, a stock driveshaft and an empty bank account! lol

Next mod: an updated ECU (strongly leaning towards the Syvecs S8) to start the whole process over again! ^_^

 

4 puck is supposed to engage more aggressively

 

I regret buying a previously modified car.

I would have spent much less money on my current build, had I bought an untouched car.

 

purchasing the Greddy FMIC. It was a pain in the *** to install and I ended up having to buy a new bumper just so it would fit. Right after, RX7Store came out with an inexpensive Vmount solution but it requires moving the battery in the bin box (which I don't want to do either).

Replica bumper and hood (ill leave the manufacture name out, they are reputable too) - got tired of non-urathane bumpers and sold everything to go 99 Spec OEM.

I'll tell you the best thing I've purchased was a new set of Coil packs and Twin Power. The car runs fantastic now better than when I first got it. I had a ignition coil pack issue on my RX8 a while back and when I replaced it, it seemed to solve all my issues. So I decided to do the same to the FD and viola! fixed!

 

LOL ... fendamonky, you called it. These cars can be a drug.

 

a whole lot more.... theres no way you see me with a 4 puck unless its 3 am in the morning with no traffic

 

I was unaware that this thread was actually titled "Puck clutch dislike discussion".
Maybe my eyes are going funny..

I joke :p

 

Buying the M2 ECU and the B&M short shifter. I switched it up with APEXI Power FC and Mr. C's short shifter. The B&M was too notchy and hard to shift. The M2 ECU was okay but the Power FC is way more flexible and configurable.

 

+1

I have it and absolutely love it. but i love the raw feeling of a car, not some princess'd up high tech electronically controlled everything. I love the feedback of it. but then again i have a depowered rack and upgraded bushings and all "comfort" isnt necessarily my top priority..

 

Might as well say it...

Going with a T3 35R instead of going straight for a T4 P-trim. Granted, the little guy made 454whp, but I knew I would want more.

 

Buying 8" Focal Subs instead of one 10"

Buying 18x10" all round CCW's. Should have gone 18x9F 18x10.5R

Buying sticky tires for my 17x8's because I already had tires on the CCW's.

Repainting my hatch due to some stock wing cancer and accidentally letting the 40 grit hit the window.

Replaced stock gauge lights with LED strips. Light is WAY too bright. Has to be turned down all the way and isn't evenly spread. Will be doing custom Indiglo stuff later on.

WORST MOD OF ALLLLLLLLL

F****** hood struts.........I HATE THEM SO.

 

Why the preference for the staggered wheels (9F / 10.5R) instead of 10's all around?

 

RZ Recaros

 

The 10" is too small for the back. Even though my CCW's measure 11" total(10.5" bead) I can still fit another .5". The +50 in the back leaves me with about .75" from the fender once rolled with the front sitting flush. (looks weird) A 10mm spacer is currently used.

The biggest reason though is the front. The front has a lot of tracking issues. You have to have both hands on the wheel. I think the tires may have something to do with it but my 17x8 255/40's have zero tracking problems and enough grip for braking. Granted they are a 180 tread wear.

 

Well if you're getting rid of them I'll take 'em off your hands

Why do you regret em by the way?

 

Seems strange to talk to you on here

My UKDM leathers we're much more comfortable, rarer (Not that rarity is a concern) & more in-keeping with the rest of my car.

I'm thinking of re-trimming the RZ's and making them a bit more plush.

 

Currently back/forth on my rear diff T-brace. The NVH is greatly increased in the car, but the lack of wheel hop is much appreciated.

Jason