What makes for a better Track/daily driver...
#26
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Actually most of the people who do engine swaps (V8s into RX7s or anything else) are usually mechanically inclined, either fabricators or tinkerers, who like to do something different. It's not about "simple" so don't try to insult those who have done swaps by calling it "simple".
wrt 400 hp, a bone stock LS2 is rated at 400 hp from GM and you can find LS2/T56 pullouts for half of your 12k engine budget. No need for bolt-ons or power adders to have 400 hp.
wrt 400 hp, a bone stock LS2 is rated at 400 hp from GM and you can find LS2/T56 pullouts for half of your 12k engine budget. No need for bolt-ons or power adders to have 400 hp.
#27
White chicks > *
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Actually most of the people who do engine swaps (V8s into RX7s or anything else) are usually mechanically inclined, either fabricators or tinkerers, who like to do something different. It's not about "simple" so don't try to insult those who have done swaps by calling it "simple".
wrt 400 hp, a bone stock LS2 is rated at 400 hp from GM and you can find LS2/T56 pullouts for half of your 12k engine budget. No need for bolt-ons or power adders to have 400 hp.
wrt 400 hp, a bone stock LS2 is rated at 400 hp from GM and you can find LS2/T56 pullouts for half of your 12k engine budget. No need for bolt-ons or power adders to have 400 hp.
So people who keep the rotary are not mechanically inclined? The people who do the up keep with these cars? The people who spend time researching and diagnosing the many problems these cars can have?
Its not about simplicity? So the many times you guys post in these types of threads saying how you dont have to check water temp gauges anymore, have to pop the hood to cool the engine anymore, can get in and go without problems etc etc is not implying that its just a "set it and forget it" type of swap??
I never said you werent mechanically inclined but you saying people who do the swap are, is also saying people who stay with the rotary are not.
Ill admit the LS is a great swap, IS A SET IT AND FORGET IT type of deal. Just like the average person who buys a brand new car. They can just get in and drive and not worry about a damn thing. Yeah that must be a great feeling to have when owning an FD, but thats how I BELIEVE the reason why people who do the swap. They want simplicity. Hell i think most of the people who did the swap never really liked the rotary, they just enjoyed the looks of the FD and wanted a set it and forget it type of engine.
#28
Darkside Performance
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I never intended to insult anyone.
So people who keep the rotary are not mechanically inclined? The people who do the up keep with these cars? The people who spend time researching and diagnosing the many problems these cars can have?
Its not about simplicity? So the many times you guys post in these types of threads saying how you dont have to check water temp gauges anymore, have to pop the hood to cool the engine anymore, can get in and go without problems etc etc is not implying that its just a "set it and forget it" type of swap??
I never said you werent mechanically inclined but you saying people who do the swap are, is also saying people who stay with the rotary are not.
Ill admit the LS is a great swap, IS A SET IT AND FORGET IT type of deal. Just like the average person who buys a brand new car. They can just get in and drive and not worry about a damn thing. Yeah that must be a great feeling to have when owning an FD, but thats how I BELIEVE the reason why people who do the swap. They want simplicity. Hell i think most of the people who did the swap never really liked the rotary, they just enjoyed the looks of the FD and wanted a set it and forget it type of engine.
So people who keep the rotary are not mechanically inclined? The people who do the up keep with these cars? The people who spend time researching and diagnosing the many problems these cars can have?
Its not about simplicity? So the many times you guys post in these types of threads saying how you dont have to check water temp gauges anymore, have to pop the hood to cool the engine anymore, can get in and go without problems etc etc is not implying that its just a "set it and forget it" type of swap??
I never said you werent mechanically inclined but you saying people who do the swap are, is also saying people who stay with the rotary are not.
Ill admit the LS is a great swap, IS A SET IT AND FORGET IT type of deal. Just like the average person who buys a brand new car. They can just get in and drive and not worry about a damn thing. Yeah that must be a great feeling to have when owning an FD, but thats how I BELIEVE the reason why people who do the swap. They want simplicity. Hell i think most of the people who did the swap never really liked the rotary, they just enjoyed the looks of the FD and wanted a set it and forget it type of engine.
Good points, I can tell you though that I am doing the swap not because I consider the v8 simple. I actually barely understand the workings of a piston engine in comparison to the Rotary. I know how to make power out of the rotary by adding this part or that part. When it came to the lsx I had to ask the guy who im getting to do my build what the best parts are to upgrade. So Im not familiar or comfortable with the V8 like I am the rotary. But you hit it on the head when you said some people switch for the set it and forget it type of engine. Thats how im looking at it.
#29
10-8-10
iTrader: (7)
As for modifications to an LS engine, get the right camshaft, upgrade the valve springs and pushrods at the same time. Assuming you have a GM ECU you can get it tuned for your specific setup pretty easily. A nice set of roller rockers would be icing on the cake. There are a lot of LS performance places on the net. If you call Vinci you talk to Roger Vinci. He works very closely with Crane. Considering the stock HP & TQ your swapped RX-7 will be dangerous to begin with.
www.vincihighperformance.com
www.vincihighperformance.com
#31
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when talking about what's better for the track, are you talking about a road course or a drag strip? I know a few people locally who have thrown a 150 shot of spray at their intake and exhaust only ls1 and run low 11s, if you want to drive it on a road course, you're gonna be looking at the same kind of maintenance as a rotary and you'll have to pay just as much attention.
#33
Rotor Head Extreme
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Not really about familiarity but more of simplicity. Its a modern day v8. What can possibly go wrong? The engine makes an assload of power and torque stock and takes little mods to make it a pure beast.
While the rotary engine has less moving parts, the engine as a whole with all its supporting necessities can be a nightmare to deal with.
I mean if the car bucks, really think about how many things that could be wrong with the car lol. Thats why i think people jump on the LS wagon. Its an easy swap to do and they get to enjoy the car more freely and more often. If 20B was as cheap and easy to swap, people would do that instead. People just want that reliable freedom, regardless of the engine. The LS just happened to be the answer to that problem.
People do the swap, IMHO, as a way out, as a way to enjoy the car while not really worrying about rotary and/or rotary related problems.
While the rotary engine has less moving parts, the engine as a whole with all its supporting necessities can be a nightmare to deal with.
I mean if the car bucks, really think about how many things that could be wrong with the car lol. Thats why i think people jump on the LS wagon. Its an easy swap to do and they get to enjoy the car more freely and more often. If 20B was as cheap and easy to swap, people would do that instead. People just want that reliable freedom, regardless of the engine. The LS just happened to be the answer to that problem.
People do the swap, IMHO, as a way out, as a way to enjoy the car while not really worrying about rotary and/or rotary related problems.
True but at the same time, you have to be familiar with whatever engine your installing if you want to mod it. Perfect example! If I were to install an LS1, I wouldn't have any idea of what I would need to do modify that engine to make more power. I don't understand at what point head work is needed, or upgrading the bottom end, or boring the cylinders larger ect. Some of the above would have to be done by a specialized machine shop (specifically the boring). Also how would you NOT accidentally over rev that engine with a 9k tach in front of you? With the rotary, I know exactly what I need to do and when to do it. Which brings me to another rotary advantage! When moding, I can do ALL my own work in house.
#36
10-8-10
iTrader: (7)
If your RX-7 is a swapped one than you don't have a true RX-7. The rotary engine makes the car. It's a package deal. If chrysler had ever manufactured the turbine car and people started putting hemis in them they would not be a chrysler turbine car any more. A roller is a kit car. Put in whatever you can, find a transmission that will work but it's not an original.
#37
White chicks > *
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True but at the same time, you have to be familiar with whatever engine your installing if you want to mod it. Perfect example! If I were to install an LS1, I wouldn't have any idea of what I would need to do modify that engine to make more power. I don't understand at what point head work is needed, or upgrading the bottom end, or boring the cylinders larger ect. Some of the above would have to be done by a specialized machine shop (specifically the boring). Also how would you NOT accidentally over rev that engine with a 9k tach in front of you? With the rotary, I know exactly what I need to do and when to do it. Which brings me to another rotary advantage! When moding, I can do ALL my own work in house.
With the LS1, you drop it in and you're basically DONE. With little to no mods your FD will be an 11 second car or even faster with minimal mods. THere is nothing to check and overcheck as if you had a 11 second rotary car.
Even stock to bolt on FDs, what do we have to look out for? Boost pressures, FPD, EGT's, check valves not working or backwards which can drive you crazy..I can go on and on. And the car is just at 300hp, if that.
The LS is an extremely reliable engine stock, there is nothing to look out for, relatively speaking. So when you drop it in, you can leave it bone stock and your FD is fast as **** and reliable. Thats what i was getting at. People want that, so people do the swap. And like i said earlier of course people want the torque etc etc, whatever.
You dont need to do no valve springs, port and polish head work etc. My friend makes around 520rwhp in his vette and all he has is a cam, intake, exhaust, tune. Its his daily driver, he didnt even have to touch his engine.
But i think now he wants even more power because hes going FI so yeah hes gonna have to touch the engine. lol
#40
Rotor Head Extreme
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Def true but that wasnt the point i was getting at.
With the LS1, you drop it in and you're basically DONE. With little to no mods your FD will be an 11 second car or even faster with minimal mods. THere is nothing to check and overcheck as if you had a 11 second rotary car.
Even stock to bolt on FDs, what do we have to look out for? Boost pressures, FPD, EGT's, check valves not working or backwards which can drive you crazy..I can go on and on. And the car is just at 300hp, if that.
The LS is an extremely reliable engine stock, there is nothing to look out for, relatively speaking. So when you drop it in, you can leave it bone stock and your FD is fast as **** and reliable. Thats what i was getting at. People want that, so people do the swap. And like i said earlier of course people want the torque etc etc, whatever.
You dont need to do no valve springs, port and polish head work etc. My friend makes around 520rwhp in his vette and all he has is a cam, intake, exhaust, tune. Its his daily driver, he didnt even have to touch his engine.
But i think now he wants even more power because hes going FI so yeah hes gonna have to touch the engine. lol
With the LS1, you drop it in and you're basically DONE. With little to no mods your FD will be an 11 second car or even faster with minimal mods. THere is nothing to check and overcheck as if you had a 11 second rotary car.
Even stock to bolt on FDs, what do we have to look out for? Boost pressures, FPD, EGT's, check valves not working or backwards which can drive you crazy..I can go on and on. And the car is just at 300hp, if that.
The LS is an extremely reliable engine stock, there is nothing to look out for, relatively speaking. So when you drop it in, you can leave it bone stock and your FD is fast as **** and reliable. Thats what i was getting at. People want that, so people do the swap. And like i said earlier of course people want the torque etc etc, whatever.
You dont need to do no valve springs, port and polish head work etc. My friend makes around 520rwhp in his vette and all he has is a cam, intake, exhaust, tune. Its his daily driver, he didnt even have to touch his engine.
But i think now he wants even more power because hes going FI so yeah hes gonna have to touch the engine. lol
I completely understand what your saying. Keep in mind the above example is 13b based. Of course smaller engines are gonna need more attention when your running it to near the ragged edge. To me, sub 400rwhp is what I consider the limit for long term reliability of a 13b while using pump gas. Anything more and were talking about adding super hi octane gas or water injection. To me if you have to start adding all those little things to make the set-up reliable to drive above those levels, then your engine is too small. I really do hate these threads as comparing the two is always apples to oranges(2.6L vs 5.7). And before this thread goes way off topic, 13b breaths like a 2.6 liter when the e-shaft has two complete revolutions regardless how Mazda rated it. So yea I completely understand going the LS1 route. Me I can never do that so that's why I went the 20b route. Power wise, larger displacement rotaries have the same advantage as the LS1. I know 20b cost more to install, but not as much as people think when you DIY just like the LS1 DIY swap. With a 20b your making 400rwhp at only 8psi with a Gt-42 turbo(and the 20b is technically a 4.0L which it still has a displacement dis-advantage). No need to check anything as that engine will run all day everyday at those low boost levels. Turn up the boost and your at 600rwhp at 15psi all on the stock block and still on pump gas and the exact same setup. IMHO that's the best both worlds while also keeping the rotary soul intact.
#42
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I completely understand what your saying. Keep in mind the above example is 13b based. Of course smaller engines are gonna need more attention when your running it to near the ragged edge. To me, sub 400rwhp is what I consider the limit for long term reliability of a 13b while using pump gas. Anything more and were talking about adding super hi octane gas or water injection. To me if you have to start adding all those little things to make the set-up reliable to drive above those levels, then your engine is too small. I really do hate these threads as comparing the two is always apples to oranges(2.6L vs 5.7). And before this thread goes way off topic, 13b breaths like a 2.6 liter when the e-shaft has two complete revolutions regardless how Mazda rated it. So yea I completely understand going the LS1 route. Me I can never do that so that's why I went the 20b route. Power wise, larger displacement rotaries have the same advantage as the LS1. I know 20b cost more to install, but not as much as people think when you DIY just like the LS1 DIY swap. With a 20b your making 400rwhp at only 8psi with a Gt-42 turbo(and the 20b is technically a 4.0L which it still has a displacement dis-advantage). No need to check anything as that engine will run all day everyday at those low boost levels. Turn up the boost and your at 600rwhp at 15psi all on the stock block and still on pump gas and the exact same setup. IMHO that's the best both worlds while also keeping the rotary soul intact.
It goes into relation to what I said about why people do it. there's no secret, the owners themselves say it over and over in threads all over this forum.
They want reliable power. They don't want to gawk at gauges while driving, they don't want to pop the hood to cool the engine, they don't want to worry about overboosting.
Not to mention parts for the v8 can be found anywhere.
And like a v8 guy said, the ls2 makes 400 stock.
So with 400 stock plus its reliability, people are now saying they do the swap because they like tinkering with cars? Lol
What is there to tinker with? After the swap, you're done.
Not like you LS fd guys have highly modified v8 setups. You have the most basic setups. What is there to tinker with? You change your oil and add gas, that's the highlight to maintenance time with the car. Lol
Its like getting your oil change done at a shop. You sit back and not worry about a damn thing.
#43
Full Member
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Most rotary people take their cars to a shop because of how awesomely unique the engine is.
All those engines that blow up in less than 10k miles are due to faulty work, either by the owner or the shop. The engine itself has gotten a bad reputation due to idiots owning them. I'm summarizing the feelings of the forum here by the way.
90% of the parts put on these cars are made by companies in Japan or copycat parts made here in the states. Wow your mechanical prowess really shines through when you screw some bolt ons on your car. Don't forget the stickers!!! What is the flavor of the week for wheels and catback? I need to keep up!!!
Man aren't wild stereotypes with no supporting evidence fun?
All those engines that blow up in less than 10k miles are due to faulty work, either by the owner or the shop. The engine itself has gotten a bad reputation due to idiots owning them. I'm summarizing the feelings of the forum here by the way.
90% of the parts put on these cars are made by companies in Japan or copycat parts made here in the states. Wow your mechanical prowess really shines through when you screw some bolt ons on your car. Don't forget the stickers!!! What is the flavor of the week for wheels and catback? I need to keep up!!!
Man aren't wild stereotypes with no supporting evidence fun?
#49
T O R Q U E!
iTrader: (24)
As for a track car... be careful. The earlier LS motors are known for having issues with oiling/oil pressure, esp under high lateral accelerations.
EDIT: just for fun, here is a vid of a c6 zo6 behind me at Buttonwillow our last track day in Oct. 2010. rotary power vs. 427 cu in of american muscle. he was filming me for fun. He could have drove circles around me (I totally suck.. just out to have fun), but it's cool to hear both sounds in the same clip.. rotary & v8.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbOl2uhGb3A
#50
10-8-10
iTrader: (7)
Is there not a comparable or better track car than a FD/LSx swap that can be bought used for reasonable money? I can understand having an FD with a blown motor and figuring that a swap might be the best option. From what I've see and read the FD makes a nice track car but in the long run it seems like swapping would cost more. I don't think there would be much return on investment. Not that most cars are any kind of investment anyways.