i recently got my motor rebuilt and decided not to go with any type of porting because i didnt want to loose any more bottom end power with my single turbo.

im wondering how far you guys pushed 92 octane on a non ported motor.

fuel side is upped 800-1600cc, fuel pump, rails and regulator.

 

i know someone on here is running E85 on stock ports making some carzy numbers.. but it would help if we know your turbo and exhaust setup, along with supporting modes E.X ECU, ignition and all your other goodies..

 

ALONG WITH, Who you plan on letting tune the engine. Tuning is key with the rotary.

 

I have a stock port FD running 1 bar on 93 octane with a Steve Kan tune that dyno'd at 394hp.

 

What other Mods u have supporting it?
Khris

 

I pushed out 420rwhp with stock ports. I'm hoping to hit 500rwhp with the new turbo.

 

my boy 13bturbofc made approx 450whp on a T04z @ 18psi on stock ports with all supporting mods. probablly would have gaind a good bit with porting though

 

That was on an FC wasn't it? I think the stock ports on the FD are bigger, so there would be a gain in power.

 

I'm running 390-401whp on BNRs at 1.2 bar with stock ports. That was on 94 octane though.

(The reason I say 390-401whp is because I had my car tuned/dynoed in England, and their dyno's show 15-18% lower whp then American dyno's. I made 340whp there.)

 

There will be very little low end loss with a small to medium street port. I know it is already water on the bridge, but if you really cared about low end, you would have went with BNR Stage 3 Seqs.

Rule of thumb is that you can push 92 octane to 15psi with no A/I. With A/I, you can go 30psi+

If you do a search on the forums on different turbos, you can see what they put out.

Medium frame turbo on stock ports at 15psi - Around 400whp

Large frame turbo on stock ports at 15psi - Around 450whp

Ill tune this car for you if you want to ship it to Kauai.

 

I am a shade over 400whp with 850/1600, supra pump, 1.06 hotside on my 500r and a 3" exhaust. Only boosting 1bar b/c we can only get 91oct in oklahoma without going to a race shop. Steve tuned my car a little over a year ago. I really think this is pretty typical. But like it was mentioned above it is really all in the tuning. And I am also sure more can be had even with my setup but I would rather error on the side of being conservative than trying to squeak out a few more hp. I am planning on really leaving my tune alone and adding some WI, I will prolly loose a few hp but oh well. Later I may take it back down to Steve's and have it retuned and possible do a tune for running 50/50 meth/water.

 

You won't lose HP running water injection if the mixture is correctly leaned out to compensate for the water. Set up your a/i system to run a 10/100 water to fuel mixture. Steve knows how to do the rest.

 

Blitz front mount intercooler
HKS wastegate
Custom Sound Performance T74 turbo
PFC & Commander
Apexi AVCR
Walboro fuel pump
AEM fuel pressure regulator
hks turbo manifold
3"piping no cat
Greddy Titanium Cat-back

i last dynoed at 375hp but their was a major leak from my crappy turbo manifold so its getting swapped out with the hks and getting retuned.

 

FMIC
HKS Twin
3 inch from turbo all the way back
T04e single.
550/1300cc
PowerFC

 

Not too sure if this is a good idea. People seem to be split on the forum weather or not this is smart. To me it would be totally dependant on the a/i system. I for one would not put the health of my motor in the hands of some cheap pump and nozzle water injection system. If you are adding the a/i for knock protection than the best way is to get a safe map laid down with out spraying, then spray over the map.

With that said, if you want to spend the big bucks on a very nice a/i system, like howard's, than by all means go ahead and tune in the spray into the fuel map. Im just not keen on putting the fate of a few grand sit with a cheap, semi unreliable system to keep things in tact.

 

Have you ever left your house and forgotten to grab your wallet? Is it possible that this could happen in the future? Would you trust a friend to remember for you?



Same deal with keeping your A/I reserviour topped up. Even if you're **** retentent about it, one day you may forget.

Wouldn't that suck if you were tuned for the extra bit of water/meth under full boost, and it happened to not be there?


I'd rather lose 3-4hp and tune to fuel, then keep the 3-4hp and risk running lean in a moment of irresponsibility.



(My post is not directed at Cgotto6, but rather a rhetorical question/statement)

 

Very true and I trust Steve, but I would rather error on the side of safety (just as I have already had Steve tune it conservatively) and lay the WI over the existing tune and NOT retune the car. At some later point after installing the AI I would like Steve to do a separate tune for 50/50 water/meth. It should be easy to change tunes in my garage with a datalogit.

Here it tends to get pretty hot in the summer and if the car sits in the garage I do not want to be dependant on an AI tune when I am not exactly sure of the current mixture. Evaporative properties of water and meth are different even when mixed together and the ration would change. That is kinda the though between two separate tunes for me. That and like I mentioned above I do not wish to rely on the AI for power, it is more of a safety net in my mind to help supply reliability to the rotary.

 

You have to pay to play.

But yes, I do agree having a fail safe system is a VERY good idea. My system has warning lights and buzzers. This would be the minimum if you ask me. There are more expensive systems that have more high tech fail safes such as boost cuts if you are willing to pay for them.

 

That's why id just either run straight meth or straight water. Its much harder to keep a 50/50 mix consistant over time.