ppritchard

We found a pin hole leak in a coolant line. The line appears to go to the back of the filler neck or thereabouts.

If you look to the left of the filler cap and below the bolt, you can see the spring clip on this small diameter hose. The leak is just past the clamp.

1. What hose is this? Definitely carries coolant.
2. how do I get to it to replace?

I've looked at the diagrams in the manuals and I can't tell if it is a long hose or as one picture seems, a short hose hooked to another.

Thanks






Second picture is a closer shot of the clamp onto what I think is the back of the filler neck area.

dinosaur

looks like the coolant line to the turbo.

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

It's the coolant line to the turbos for sure. There are two and they are known for causing problems because of the extreme heat they are submitted to.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Replace both of those turbo coolant lines. Don't go in that far and just replace one.

ppritchard

So, what does it entail to change these out?
What do I have to remove?

Any tips on making it less hard?

thanks

KaiFD3S

iTrader: (37)

yup coolant line to the turbo..mine leaked too and gave me a reason to go single...lol..

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...o+coolant+hose

Search will bring up much more.

ppritchard

Still looking for some direction on "how" to change out the turbo coolant lines.

What do I need to remove in order to get to them, especially the one in the photo.

Given the location of the leak, I'm concerned about a possible fire hazard.

thanks

KaiFD3S

iTrader: (37)

I believe you have to take the smog pump and the Y-pipe's off in order to get to it...a bit of work but just be patient...

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Remove the airpump and intake and you should have room. I would recommend some nice angled pliers and new clamps for the hoses. If you cant wait to order them from Malloy, just go to the parts store and buy a couple pieces of prebent coolant hose that is the same size as the factory. Cut it to the correct length and install them with new clamps. Make sure there are no kinks in the hose and you will be good to go after burping the coolant system.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

You are going to have to remove the air pump, air box hoses, outlet pipe from Turbos to IC, filler neck, top radiator hose and more to gain enough room to work in there. These short hoses are in a very tight spot. Unless you are a experienced mechanic or an avid adventurist, then I would advise to take it to a rotary mechanic experienced with FDs. Otherwise be ready to replace other items that you may break along the path to changing these out. Personally they are easy to change out, but I get the impression from your posting that you have not been this deep into a 13b before.

good luck


Later

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Not to be rude but there is no need to remove all of that. To the guy who asked the question just follow what I said. This is a simple project for most people to take on and something I suggest you do. He will have a long road ahead of him if he plans to drive this car a lot and it will be a good project for him.

CantGoStraight

LOL with you. Wish I had the money to throw a $3500 dollar system at $5 worth of parts.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

That's possibly the most ridiculous reason to go single turbo I've heard yet...and I've heard quite a few...

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

BTW, a parts store hose is only a temporary fix. You HAVE to use a Mazda OEM hose there - they're rated for higher heat than most hoses, and they have updated the hoses in the past with a higher heat range material. It's likely that hose is the original before they updated the hoses.

If you run a homemade or parts store hose, it WILL fail on you sooner than later.

I had that hose go on my car a while back, changed it in the parking lot at work . Getting the airpump out of the way is the biggie, that frees up the room to get in there.

Dale

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Fixed that for you.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

Yes, Dale is correct, don't skimp out here, use the OEM. That area is very hot and that is what breaks down the hoses eventually. The OEM hoses had a protective covering ( another hose ) over the top of them . Also I will reiteriate - you DO need to remove the items I named above and more to gain access to these two hoses, unless you have a brigade of Nanomechanics that work for you. And yes - there is Two of these hoses.


good eye Dale


Later

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Im not here to argue, but you absolutely do not need to remove the upper radiator hose or filler neck. Simple $10 pliers at Sears will get the job done.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

No arguement was ever intended DJ, I have had my experiences with these hoses before and evidently so have you. We all have an opinion here, and I am just relaying it as accurately as I can. Now let's allow the guy to replace them if he wishes and he can report back on what he had to remove and what he didn't.

Later