There are some threads where guys left the cars on over night (10+ hours). Had no problems with the car. Im not saying its the best situation, but the fans are designed to flow enough CFM to keep the car within operational temps.

 

Lovely work, Chris!

 

That is for an idling motor. A motor that has just spent time revving its brains out on the track ain't going to be so happy. Not that it will overheat, but it's not a nice thing to do to the motor and its oil.

 

OH I agree, that was just another point I was making. its still should not over heat at the track unless there is a relay problem, fan problem, thermostat problem.

 

Well, I checked out my fans and bother are working fine and turning on at 87C. How could this be the waterpump? It either works or it doesn't right.I don't think I have any air in my system, my coolant level has been rock solid since I had the motor put in. I am going to try the ductwork thing very soon, and add some water wetter.

Crispy, what all did you have to remove to do that other that the IC, airbox and battery?

 

you checked your thermostat, right?

 

One thing I am surprised no ever (or rarely) mentions is the fact that with the M2 intake you are stealing air from the radiator and more importantly causing a LOW pressure next to it. With the low pressure area the air will tend to flow toward the intake opening. what I did when I ran the track with the n-tech intake was create a shield to separate the intake opening below it from the radiator.

And yes you will see 110C temps on the track when you are full gas or full brake for 20 mintues, especially with 80F temps outside.

 

No, I have not checked the T-stat, but it is fairly new, and It would be causing bigger problems than this, correct? Also the air that the fans blow out is VERY hot when I pit, so I'm pretty sure the coolant is circulating good. The track that I am running is not a real fast track, at least I dont think so. 1.7 miles 10 turns
http://www.putnampark.com/
Lots of hard braking and fast acceleration. I hit about 130 on the main stretch. Lap times for me are about 1:26, experts like sleepR1 run 1:20ish. Actually the first time I go out it takes about 8 laps to reach 110, after that only4-5.

 

I ran no hotter than 103 C (217.4 F) @ Mid Ohio last week. The ambient temps were a few degrees F cooler in Lexington OH. My boost was set to 0.80 kg/cm^2 (11.4 psi). Laptimes were 1:49, 1:50 with Pirelli P6000s and EBC Greenstuffs (usually run 1:45 to 1:47 with Hoosiers and Porterfield R4Es)...

What boost setting did you have last Friday @ Putnam, Ryan? That might make a difference, if you're running 1.0 kg/cm^2 (14.22 psi)??!! Try backing the boost down to 0.80 kg/cm^2 (11.4 psi) or 0.85 kg/cm^2 (12.1 psi)...

 

Ok, I know I am being obnoxious with my fan crap, but....

one last thing to consider, you established that your fans *ARE* running. But you have not established that they are running properly. For example, the factory ecu sets the fans to come on different speeds at different temps. Your low speed fans kicked in at 87, but do you know if the high speed fans kick on? You should find out what the factory presets are, let your car idle and stand infront of the car, you should be able to hear it change from low speed to high speed. I think different relays are in work to make that happen.

Im runnin' for cover now cause I really need to shut up about the fan things.

 

I had a blown fan myself and didn't know it until I had the intercooler out. A bolt (looked like the one from the turbo cross-over pipe) was jammed in mine and burnt it out. I had no idea...good thing I never lost the second fan

 

Manny, my I was only running 10lbs at the track. I can only dream of what my temps would be at 14lbs.(BTW you missed some killer high speed I465 driving tonight, Phil is CRAZY!)

Zerobanger, I am not sure about the fan speed while moving, but I have a fan mod switch, and I have heard the fans change speed just after you shut the car off and you turn the switch off. I think with the switch on it turns the fans on high, right? I do know this works which I assume means that the relay is functioning properly. I will have to check with Tony (Badog) about when the fans are set to come on, he did the Datalogit tuning. I think he has them set to turn on high at 87C. I think I remember seeing this on his laptop. Thanks for your help.

 

Radkins,
Radiator side shields were installed removing just what you mentioned: IC, airbox and battery&tray. Pax side is easy to fab. Drivers side is a real PITA due to the AC lines. Make a template out of cereal box cardboard before cutting final out of AL flashing material.

Regarding tomps at Putnam Park, don't think because the track is short it is easier on the car. I have found quite to the contrary. Short track have less "off throttle" time and less time for the car to come to temperature equilibrium on the straights. Short tracks are harder on brakes and engine temps. At Summit Point there is a short track (Jefferson Circuit) that I lap in just under a minute. It is brutal on my car. Whereas at a track like VIR I can lap hour after hour with no worries. FWIW
Crispy

 

I agree with Chris. Putnam Park (1.77 miles per lap, 10 turns) is harder on my car than either Road America (4 miles per lap, 14 turns) or Mid Ohio (2.5 miles per lap, 15 turns). Short tracks are murder on me and the car. This is one reason I don't do Black Hawk, Gingerman or Gratten LOL

 

As long as this favorite topic is topical again... search on the old thread:

Hot air OUT! New mod for anyone with too much time on their hands........

There used to be good pictures along with it that got lost in the ether, but venting hot air out the unused wheel vents seems efficient. As easy as duct soup...

 

here's the thread
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=hot+air

but yeah, bummer the pics got lost.

 

One thing that helped my track temperatures a lot was to underdrive the water pump pulley 25%. Of course this only helps when you're running your car for a long time at high rpms.

I had heard this would help but I didn't really believe it (it seems kinda counterintuitive to slow down your waterpump for better cooling) so it was the last cooling mod I did. It made a huge difference at the racetrack. Intead of getting too hot after 4 laps or so I could run all day long and stay cool. At first I thought it was because maybe the waterpump was spinning too fast at high rpms and causing cavitation. I later found out that while high rpm cavitation was a problem with the FB and FC it was supposedly fixed with the FD. A knowledgable person told me that slowing down the flow of coolant at high rpms just allows the FD to cool much more efficiently and that is the reason for the cooling improvement - not due to lack of cavitation.

I don't have any problems getting too hot on the street or at idle with the underdrive pully but your results may vary.

 

Do you remember who's water-pump pulley you used ?

TIA,
:-) neil

 

im curious what underdrive waterpump pulley this was too. they're probably all similar/same reduction

does anyone run a underdriven waterpump pulley with airpump still on the car?

 

I have the Greddy water pulley with the Airpump. If you don't use the alternator pulley in the 2-pulley kit, you can even use the stock belt. At the track, this helped considerably with my overheating issue.

 

Yes:
http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/pulleys.htm
HTH,
Crispy

 

thanks svelte, crispy. what i haven't seen as far as main pulley.. no one has made a main pulley that eliminates a/c and p/s.. buut probably not much of an issue anyway its less than 4oz of material..

svelte do you only run the water pump pulley? never considered a main pulley and alt? or do you think a underdriven main pulley may turn the pump too slow and result in higher temps?

 

I use an underdrive main pulley also with the WP and Alt pulleys.
Crispy