what do you all think about my idle?? Resurrection from 5yr of sleep
10-30-10, 02:47 PM
#51
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Your compression looks fine. You have 120 psi max pressure on box rotors and as long as the pulses are even with the valve open, that means they are all generating ~equal pressure. You need to open the valve on the rear rotor too or maybe you just didn't post the vid.
The pulse pressure can be anything and really depends on the opening, like if it is just pressed in or if the valve is completely removed allowing more air to flow out.
Engine temp only has a mild effect on the compression in my experience. Not a make or break variable... may be in some cases but i don't think so here.
The pulse pressure can be anything and really depends on the opening, like if it is just pressed in or if the valve is completely removed allowing more air to flow out.
Engine temp only has a mild effect on the compression in my experience. Not a make or break variable... may be in some cases but i don't think so here.
However, I just remove the valve and there is barely a bounce, I'm sure it can't get a reading since there is no pressure getting to the gauge, hmmmm...
10-30-10, 10:36 PM
#52
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So if my compression is good, and I replace the spark plugs and clean out the injectors...is there any other problems that could occur that causes the white smoke? Would putting in new plugs and injectors elminate my problems and be ready for the road? I know that white smoke is normally caused by coolant burning in the combustion chamber of an engine, do you think my gaskets have failed?
10-30-10, 10:43 PM
#53
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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I didn't read the whole thread, so forgive me if any of this has been covered before.
(1) Was the block sitting for 5 years with the same coolant in it?
(2) Did you try the champagne test? ie start car with rad cap off and watch for a steady stream of small bubbles as the car warms up.
(1) Was the block sitting for 5 years with the same coolant in it?
(2) Did you try the champagne test? ie start car with rad cap off and watch for a steady stream of small bubbles as the car warms up.
10-31-10, 12:33 AM
#54
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I didn't read the whole thread, so forgive me if any of this has been covered before.
(1) Was the block sitting for 5 years with the same coolant in it?
(2) Did you try the champagne test? ie start car with rad cap off and watch for a steady stream of small bubbles as the car warms up.
(1) Was the block sitting for 5 years with the same coolant in it?
(2) Did you try the champagne test? ie start car with rad cap off and watch for a steady stream of small bubbles as the car warms up.
Now the odd thing was the manual said stock coolant levels are about 2.3gal, I figured with a bigger radiator [koyo], it would much more, probably 3-4gal. I filled maybe about 2gal and the temps did hit about 90celsius, and the stock temp gauge never peaked nor did the alarm go off.
So in essence, the champange test wasn't succeed since the bubbles were huge and overflowing. Hope that helps
10-31-10, 02:00 PM
#55
So if my compression is good, and I replace the spark plugs and clean out the injectors...is there any other problems that could occur that causes the white smoke? Would putting in new plugs and injectors elminate my problems and be ready for the road? I know that white smoke is normally caused by coolant burning in the combustion chamber of an engine, do you think my gaskets have failed?
A rich condition, incomplete combustion and many other things can cause whitish smoke. Water is also a product of the combustion process so it's normal to see some steam at startup. You'd know if it was coolant; it smells very sweet. If you want to compare, you could heat up some antifreeze on hot metal outside.
Also, make sure you use distilled water to dilute your coolant if you haven't. I don't know if you've ever done a drain-fill on this coolant system but I found it to be a tough one. I had to run the engine fully warmed up for a while with the fill cap open to get all the air out.
10-31-10, 03:22 PM
#56
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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I didn't read the whole thread, so forgive me if any of this has been covered before.
(1) Was the block sitting for 5 years with the same coolant in it?
(2) Did you try the champagne test? ie start car with rad cap off and watch for a steady stream of small bubbles as the car warms up.
(1) Was the block sitting for 5 years with the same coolant in it?
(2) Did you try the champagne test? ie start car with rad cap off and watch for a steady stream of small bubbles as the car warms up.
Also, google 'Lisle funnel' it makes it much easier to burp the cooling system of air when used properly.
10-31-10, 04:42 PM
#57
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I have the Lisle funnel, damn thing drove me crazy cause it wouldn't seal right. If I let my hands off the funnel, it would spill over. I had to hold it the entire time with a good amount of pressure to keep it from leaking out.
10-31-10, 04:44 PM
#58
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Don't lose too much sleep over this. Just make sure your comp pulses are good and put the new plugs in when you get them.
A rich condition, incomplete combustion and many other things can cause whitish smoke. Water is also a product of the combustion process so it's normal to see some steam at startup. You'd know if it was coolant; it smells very sweet. If you want to compare, you could heat up some antifreeze on hot metal outside.
Also, make sure you use distilled water to dilute your coolant if you haven't. I don't know if you've ever done a drain-fill on this coolant system but I found it to be a tough one. I had to run the engine fully warmed up for a while with the fill cap open to get all the air out.
A rich condition, incomplete combustion and many other things can cause whitish smoke. Water is also a product of the combustion process so it's normal to see some steam at startup. You'd know if it was coolant; it smells very sweet. If you want to compare, you could heat up some antifreeze on hot metal outside.
Also, make sure you use distilled water to dilute your coolant if you haven't. I don't know if you've ever done a drain-fill on this coolant system but I found it to be a tough one. I had to run the engine fully warmed up for a while with the fill cap open to get all the air out.
As with anything, these plugs are different from what I have worked with in the past. How do you gap these properly?
11-01-10, 05:53 PM
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So I got the new plugs, ran a compression test on rear rotor [with schrader pressed], installed new plugs and here are the results...doodoo
01.rear rotor compression...looks good
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R_0NJWewyw
02. after installing new plugs - gauge readings
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKQ8Qy_Tuoc
03. after installing new plugs - engine smoke
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrtY4QEXrPA
01.rear rotor compression...looks good
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R_0NJWewyw
02. after installing new plugs - gauge readings
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKQ8Qy_Tuoc
03. after installing new plugs - engine smoke
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrtY4QEXrPA
11-01-10, 08:10 PM
#62
Planning my come back
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Is there a possibility that you hook up the boost gauge backwards? Like the terminals because it is doing what it should like if it was reading vacuum.
11-01-10, 08:42 PM
#63
What's that smoke smell like? Fuel? Make your eyes water?
I might make a last ditch effort before taking off the UIM and see if you're getting proper spark by putting an timing light or inline tester on there. Those new plugs may also be fouled now too if you have a stuck injector and ran it for long.
At least your compression is good... and if it's an open injector, you can probably just have them all cleaned and tested for a few bucks. I recommend this guy: http://cleaninjectors.com/
I might make a last ditch effort before taking off the UIM and see if you're getting proper spark by putting an timing light or inline tester on there. Those new plugs may also be fouled now too if you have a stuck injector and ran it for long.
At least your compression is good... and if it's an open injector, you can probably just have them all cleaned and tested for a few bucks. I recommend this guy: http://cleaninjectors.com/
11-01-10, 09:06 PM
#64
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The Defi gauge only hooks up one way, so I'm pretty sure its not backwards, the reading is in Kpa not psi so its all funky for the conversation. I'll look it over now, but I'm almost positive its installed correctly. Will keep you posted.
11-01-10, 09:12 PM
#65
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What's that smoke smell like? Fuel? Make your eyes water?
I might make a last ditch effort before taking off the UIM and see if you're getting proper spark by putting an timing light or inline tester on there. Those new plugs may also be fouled now too if you have a stuck injector and ran it for long.
At least your compression is good... and if it's an open injector, you can probably just have them all cleaned and tested for a few bucks. I recommend this guy: http://cleaninjectors.com/
I might make a last ditch effort before taking off the UIM and see if you're getting proper spark by putting an timing light or inline tester on there. Those new plugs may also be fouled now too if you have a stuck injector and ran it for long.
At least your compression is good... and if it's an open injector, you can probably just have them all cleaned and tested for a few bucks. I recommend this guy: http://cleaninjectors.com/
Unfortunately I don't have a timing gun so its something I can't do right now. So I'll search through the manual and the forum to see how to yank out those injectors, and hopefully I didn't mess up those plugs, took a week to get here, hate to get another set. Just hate to de-pressurize my fuel by starting the motor up again and yanking the relay out, don't want to mess anything else up in there.
And thanks for the link, how are they compared to RC engineering?
11-02-10, 08:30 AM
#66
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Last night as I was de-pressurizing the fuel to yank the injectors out, when I had the car running on idle with the circuit relay pulled out, car seems to idle less rough, still some bouncing, but the turbo gauge was reading vacuum at .5 kpa. There was still lots of smoke and even though it filled up my garage , the smell wasn't so strong
any ideas on this? BTW I started to yank out the injectors, only to find out there was already a stripped screw on an injector cover
any ideas on this? BTW I started to yank out the injectors, only to find out there was already a stripped screw on an injector cover
11-04-10, 12:08 PM
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how do you pull out the rats nest to get the primary injectors out? I've unbolted all the injector covers, the fuel rails, and oil fill neck. The nest moves, but only a couple of cm, but still cannot get access to the injectors to pull them out
11-05-10, 08:07 PM
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I was reading the thread on the conversion to non and wasn't sure if its emissions legal. Since my car has been off the road for so long, first thing it need to get a license plate is an emission test...unless someone can tell me otherwise.
11-06-10, 11:23 AM
#75
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It has been a while since I pulled out my primary injectors but I know it can be done without taking out the rat's nest. I think I used a long needle nose pliers to pull them out. Good luck
John
John