what do you all think about my idle?? Resurrection from 5yr of sleep
 

After 5 years in the garage, my sleeping FD finally got my car all topped off, clean gas, fresh coolant and oil, added some Marvel Miracle Oil, ready to hit the road...

Well first off, my idle doesn't idle right, not sure but my idle flutters. I will post a video of the gauge reading, maybe someone can tell me if something is off

Second, white/gray smoke, that may due to the car sitting so long..

Third, I had installed a Greddy BOV type S with the hose nipple not hooked up, not sure where it plugs to, but there is a vacant nipple exposed on the intake manifold. Can someone tell me if this is the right place to run the hose to?

Here are the gauge reading during idle, not sure if this helps


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NVdADQqdhc

Here are 3 pics of what I am asking about for the BOV

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/1323/dsc00030tt.jpg

http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/1833/dsc00031q.jpg

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/9316/dsc00032wae.jpg

just hook a vacumn source to the bov, the one on the manifold works.
what ecu are you running?
definitely not running on all rotors.
id imagine you have one/several stuck seals in there.

Also, since the BOV and the intake manifold has an open nipple, would it cause the idle to rough?

how do you unstuck a seal? I know I'll probably get flamed for asking this, but tired of searching the forum all week for answer.

Thanks for helping out

well,there are a few methods that people use. Most will wreak havoc on rubber seals (oil control orings,coolant seals,etc) though. Theyre mainly used as a last ditch attempt before a rebuild.
atf,kerosene,seafoam are a few of the ones used.
i have an engine i pulled apart that had the atf trick done to it, and the oil control o rings are toast.
im gonna let someone more knowledgeable chime in on unsticking a seal though.

put a cap on the exposed vacumn nipple on the manifold though, i highly doubt its the issue your having, but its worth a shot.

I'm not convinced there's a stuck seal just from that. Lots of things can cause rough idle, and rough idle is associated with oscillating vacuum readings.

Can we get a full mod list for the car? Have any emissions or vacuum lines been deleted?

Mods list for my car [engine side]:
Greddy FMIC
Greddy BOV type-S
Greddy Airinix
Koyo Radiator

Pretty much the car is stock, when I purchased it, the previous owner had Mazda rebuild the motor and he sold it to me with about 1k miles on it. I had an overheating issue due to the fan relays, so I fixed that and opted with the koyo, in addition I added the FMIC since it was relatively the same area of work.
As for emission and vacuum lines omitted, only thing I can remember would be the stock BOV replacement. Since the Greddy BOV had been newly mounted by the battery area, there may have been a line ommited, which may explain why there is a nipple exposed on the intake manifold. I don't remember if the stock plastic elbow by the TB had any lines, but I had replace it with a polished [Greddy?] elbow. If anything else on the engine bay side, would be replacing the stock oil gauge sending unit with a Defi one [which I may Tee off...another project, another day].

I will take a video of what the engine is doing during idle, I may be mistaken, but I don't think the turbos are boosting, since the Greddy BOV is adjustable it may not be ready out of the box or it could be the 1 vacuum line. I did let the car warm up and revved up to 4000rpm, but never heard the BOV and did see a billow of smoke coming out of the exhause. My wife said the smoke was black, I remember seeing white/gray.

just looking at your boost gauge, its going wayyyy to high if thats the stock ecu.
the bov needs a vacumn source to work

Here are some steps you should do.

Replace all spark plugs and check spark tell us the color of the plugs... From the video you sound like you are running on one rotor.

You most definitely are getting boost, you hit about 1 bar in the vid.

White smoke=coolant or leaking fuel injectors.

My FD sat partially disassembled and the injectors got stuck open. I replaced them and was good to go.

and last but not least.... PLLLEEEASSSEEE put a line from the UIM to the blow off... now.

:D good luck man!

Check the compression if it's not good pull the motor and rebuild it. If it's good start fixing the problems whatever they may be :)

I have a mint complete long block that's been sitting for 15 years and the compression isn't bad lol. I doubt the coolant rings etc... are good but I'm tempted to just drop it in something and see what happens.

That boost gauge is faulty first of all.

How do you hit 1bar of boost in revving it in neutral??

And the fact it looks like you were giving it like an 1/8 of the throttle questions that gauge even more.

Hook up that vacuum nipple on the manifold, then report back.

Low compression is not the only reason for a 13b to run on only 1 rotor. Try a fresh set of plugs and use a timing light to verify that they are all firing after installing new plugs. A fouled plug will still set off an inductive timing light.

Also, don't put that MMO shit in your car. It's snake oil garbage and likely does more harm than good.

ok, so I have yet to run a compression test since the parts store by me won't have any in till Tue. As for the vacuum hose from the UIM, I ran it from there to the Greddy BOV. No changes still the same idling issue. I will post a vid of the idle from the outside of the car as well as the inside.

Now here is my other issue, I just noticed. Where is the stock BOV located? I just got totally stumped, in my hands I thought I had the stock BOV...after looking in the engine bay and the manual, I saw another valve by the intake. In the manual there is a section on the air bypass valve?!? and a section on the charge relief valve. I will post pics below

Now how would my engine run with a stock BOV and a aftermarket, this would be stupidity on my part 5 years ago.

BTW, what should the boost gauge be reading on idle?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jvJdXB1pFI



http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/8260/dsc00037ig.jpg
Stock BOV??

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/6899/dsc00038bg.jpg
ANother angle

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/8428/dsc00039lv.jpg
WTF is this?

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/6087/dsc00041cc.jpg

Here is a the video from outside

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9ON3FmEbCY

yea, thats another stock bypass valve.... (blow off) shouldn't be there afaik...

change the plugs dude. and check the injectors. My car sat for 5 years too. same problem and thats what fixed mine.

the factory air bypass valve says ABV on it, like in the picture above, and the factory charge relief valve says CRV on it (assuming everything is hooked up like stock). but it's unlikely that either of those would affect idle on this car. there is no mass airflow sensor so it's less sensitive to that kind of thing

plugs and injectors could very well be the problem on a car that has sat that long.

Dude, your boost gauge is faulty.

How can you proceed with your diagnostics if you're looking at a faulty gauge?

Updates?

nothing as of today, I had to order the plugs from amazon today since the local shops don't carry it. I will however, will try to pull the plugs out tonight and give an update on what the current plugs look like.

I'm also trying to find a local shop that could clean out my injectors, hopefully they will be good and cheap! Anyone got any suggestions for the northern VA area?

I'm probably going to pull that bypass valve off and try to find a match for a hose to fit in its place, just not sure what to do with that vacuum hose once the valve is off

Since there are 4 spark plugs, and I want to run a compression test, do I run the test on all 4 empty sockets or just 1 in the lead plug and 1 in the trail plug?

What does the smoke smell like?

I think you test the compression on Both rotors, doesn't matter which spot, i think...