smells like gas, engine burning rich

 

smells rich...

so far this car has burned holes in my pocket =(

 

Dude.....

Get the injectors cleaned, and/or replace o-rings. Stop running the car, please.

I'm not trying to be rude, so please take no offense

 

dude...
you have a ******* unhooked vaccum line....
on a speed density ecu
and you are wondering why you are running rich?

 

No offense....but I'm looking a local shop to clean out my injectors, I'm working the spark plugs first, then proceed to injectors


The vacuum line got hooked up to the BOV, unless you see another unhooked line....

 

do the real compression test, not poor man's: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html

Another sign of incomplete combustion from lack of spark or compression. Your fuel is going in, not doing anything and coming back out.

And btw, you can use 86-91 rx-7 spark plugs which napa or the like usually carries. Same part numbers, just no "P" on the end because they are not platinum plugs. BUR9EQ, BUR7EQ i think.

 

leading/bottom, both rotors

 

ok update....haven't been able to do a compression test since I can't find anyone to help crank the motor while I watch the gauge.

I have taken pics of the spark plug and here is the verdict for the trailing plug on the rear rotor. Smell like strong gas

 

any thoughts on the spark plugs?

 

Thoughts: wire Brush, and Brake / Carb Cleaner, may be able to resurrect them, but most likely they need replacing, and as far as Boost (Vacuum ) goes at idle, most normal motors draw somewhere between 4-7 inches of mercury, in/hg with great compression sometimes more.
And more than 1-5 bars of boost without the car in gear tearing down the highway, would be news to me.

That's normal

 

Fouled.

Never had any luck with a wire brush and carb cleaner. Glass bead blasting is the only way to go. Just need to make sure all the glass gets cleaned off the plug.

You mean 14-17 in/hg? He'd be in bad shape with 4 hahaha.

 

I got some ordered coming in the mail, hopefully USPS can delivery by Sat...compression test tonight!

 

your from bristow va right? you coulda made the 20 min trip to woodbridge to goto malloy mazda for them instead, i think i paid 77$ for plugs and wires!

 

I called Mazda and they weren't in stock, I ended getting the plugs for $28 on amazon

 

odd, I literally was their yesterday and picked up a set, along with wires, FPD and UIM to LIM gasket. regardless I think you saved a few bucks on me! haha

 

I have the same idle issue almost exactly the same. I have done compression on my motor and i got 110 and 107. My plugs were a nice cardboard color though. I figured mine was just because its a street port with a pettit ecu.

 

Does your FD work now? All my plugs are black, and smell like gas.

I did the compression test and all of them displayed 120. I will post the video below, let me know if you all see anything wrong


01. REAR LEAD test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZQreiCaYvY


02. REAR TRAIL test

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgYD3jOdK9M

03. FRONT LEAD test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NEuNiv8dU8

 

did you test with the check valve held open and look for even bounces?

 

Here is the video for the front rotor with the check valve open

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zE_F8wYOg-U

 

The bounces look even, but does it need to hit a certain psi for succession?

 

I dont know if you have a street port or not i have a pettit medium port size and it has always bein a similar idle to yours. If you search street port idle there is a bunch of threads that say its normal for a stock or chipped ecu. Compression looks sweet though!

 

stock build / stock ECU.

I'm worried about this motor since its smoking out the pipe, and after a couple of tries with the starting, doesn't to crank up, this could be the odyessy battery I'm using. Although the battery does try to turn the motor most of the time.

 

can you leave the check valve in while doing the compression check? thats how you get the actual compression of the faces, you have even pulses, but they look low, when I check the pulses on mine I think I remember seeing about 30psi per pulse on the good rotor.

 

Not sure if the pulses will be higher if the engine is warm, from everywhere I read, engine should be warmed up

 

Your compression looks fine. You have 120 psi max pressure on box rotors and as long as the pulses are even with the valve open, that means they are all generating ~equal pressure. You need to open the valve on the rear rotor too or maybe you just didn't post the vid.

The pulse pressure can be anything and really depends on the opening, like if it is just pressed in or if the valve is completely removed allowing more air to flow out.

Engine temp only has a mild effect on the compression in my experience. Not a make or break variable... may be in some cases but i don't think so here.