What to do while engine is out?
#1
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What to do while engine is out?
Hi All,
The day has come - I need to get my engine rebuilt (coolant in one of the rotor housings) and I was curious about thoughts that anyone might have as to maintenance-type jobs to address while the engine is out and things might be easier to access. I was already thinking about the rubber parts of fuel lines, coolant hoses, vacuum hoses. Any other things I should be sure to get at while the getting's good?
Thanks!
The day has come - I need to get my engine rebuilt (coolant in one of the rotor housings) and I was curious about thoughts that anyone might have as to maintenance-type jobs to address while the engine is out and things might be easier to access. I was already thinking about the rubber parts of fuel lines, coolant hoses, vacuum hoses. Any other things I should be sure to get at while the getting's good?
Thanks!
#2
My rule of thumb I've always gone by when removing and reinstalling an engine is replace any hose, gasket, seal, etc. that would be a pain in the butt to do when the engine is in the car
Like you said, fuel lines, coolant hoses, and especially vacuum lines. Don't forget about the copper crush washers on some of the banjo bolts and oil fittings. They're cheap insurance to replace while out and save you from an oil leak later on
One thing I also just did while the engine was out was go through the entire engine harness and make sure all your wiring and connectors are good. I found a lot of brittle wires that were on the verge of breaking and would have been a headache to track down while in the car. I ended up buying a new harness but at the very least I would have stripped the loom and rewrapped it all nice.
Like you said, fuel lines, coolant hoses, and especially vacuum lines. Don't forget about the copper crush washers on some of the banjo bolts and oil fittings. They're cheap insurance to replace while out and save you from an oil leak later on
One thing I also just did while the engine was out was go through the entire engine harness and make sure all your wiring and connectors are good. I found a lot of brittle wires that were on the verge of breaking and would have been a headache to track down while in the car. I ended up buying a new harness but at the very least I would have stripped the loom and rewrapped it all nice.
#3
Would also be a good time to inspect your turbos while its out. The car I just did ended up getting a large single after the rebuild but when I pulled the stock ones off they were on their last leg. Tons of shaft play and the manifold was cracked
#5
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
*Replace turbo coolant lines
*Replace (or eliminate) fuel pulsation dampener
*New coil harness
*Send in fuel injectors for cleaning and flow testing
*I think they still come in the 'gasket kit' for rebuilds, but new 'O' rings for things like the oil filter pedestal and OMP.
*New rear main and 'O' ring.
*New pilot bearing and seal
*Good time to replace throw-out bearing and clutch fork (they've been know to fail with time)
*Resurface flywheel
*Clutch and pressure plate if they show much wear
*New rear transmission seal
*Reassembly should include an oil pan brace
*Good aftermarket engine mounts of your choice after research
*Efini 'Y' pipe
*Depending on emissions requirements where you live, consider a standalone ECU and eliminating emissions/simplification.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 08-25-16 at 07:56 AM.
#7
Constant threat
When I did my engine rebuild I definitely took advantage of it...and simply replaced every single rubber hose in the engine bay. Replaced the radiator. Detailed out the bay and scraped/sanded/primed/painted any surface needing it. All the things Sgt. Blue and MeanS14 recommend, for sure. You'll never have a better opportunity to make a 23 year old car look better!
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#8
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#9
Urban Combat Vet
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I'm not aware of any quality all-metal radiator that doesn't require some modification. Maybe there is a completely stock size version out there but then a gain in capacity is some of the benefit. At least in the case of Koyo (100% larger) and Fluidyne (50% larger)...if they're specific for the FD it's nothing major and something anyone can do.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 08-26-16 at 03:32 PM.
#10
Constant threat
I bought a full-metal direct replacement radiator, three row instead of two, and had the auto transmission connections. Radiatorworld.com was where I bought it...if memory serves. But I don't see them around anymore!
Last edited by bajaman; 08-26-16 at 06:22 PM.
#11
polybush steering rack,
upgrade engine mounts
check brake lines for corrosion
or delete abs! Replumb brake lines (Begin the argument lol)
ensure firewall grommets aren't split allowing heat into cabin
replace any shoddy hoses/upgrade to silicone hoses
powdercoat subframe
replace any rusty seized bolts with titanium ones
check cv boots for splits
upgrade tie rods to uras thicker ones/upgrade tie rod ends
jjust a few ideas to get your juices flowing
#13
Good idea also on the tie rods and rod ends! Easy to do while the engine is out since they're right there. Also pull and replace your steering rack bellows and see if the rack is leaking at all
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TimWilbers
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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03-27-16 09:07 PM