As the title states, what alternator are you running? I'm sure most are running the stock alternator in some form, OEM -- OEM Rebuild(Bosch) -- Parts Store Rebuild. As both of my OEM alternators are now tired I'm exploring what the best options are for replacement. Whether that be the OEM Bosch rebuild, parts store rebuild, or an uprated unit like what DC Power offers. Many of us are likely pushing the limits of what the stock unit can produce (fuel pumps, fans, lights, coils, etc.), and there don't seem to be many options out there for us for aftermarket replacements.

That would also raise the question of how many amps do we really need? This can be calculated and will vary on a case by case basis but in general most of us will fall into a certain range. 90-150 amp maybe? Which would place the DC Power and Power Bastards options in the excessive and unnecessary range. I've been searching for options in that range from other vehicles that may fit but nothing I've come across so far has looked close enough to give a try at mounting.

I know one that will come up from searching previous posts is the IRP 140 amp unit but I think with their recent lead time and delivery issues this option is off the table until proven otherwise.

If you have experience with the OEM rebuilds or a parts store rebuild post it below. Similarly post your experience with aftermarket upgrades or local shops to you that do alternator rebuilds and share their information.

 

From RHD Japan - https://www.rhdjapan.com/
Comes in different colors - ARD 150 amp. They sell other brands.
It comes with an under-drive larger pulley to use with the stock main pulley.
If your main pulley is smaller (underdrive), use your stock smaller alternator pulley on the new alternator.

 

Advance 130Amp.
they now have an ebay shop and they ship directly from japan.

 

I'm very satisfied with the ARD alternator on my FD. The Advance is also a quality part. Can't go wrong with either one, and with the current USD/JPY exchange rate the cost is reasonable.

I would not touch the IRP rebuild alternator for any price.

 

drop-in factory replacement 200 Amp unit from https://www.excessiveamperage.com/
Puts out around 120 amps at idle and 200 max

 

I've been running a DC power alternator for a couple years. No complaints. Looks trick too

 

No big audio or mods, so still on stock (original) OEM. FWIW, I have augmented a full circle of grounds and run a line from the alternator and positive post.

 

I'm using this 150 amp ARD unit. It works great.
Brand: ARD Custom
Product: Low Resistance High Output Alternator Blue - FD3S
Part Num: RR150-FD3S-9G Blue

SPECIFICATIONS:
Power Generation (Amps):
- OEM: 100
- ARD: 150
Pulley Material: Iron
https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-res...blue-fd3s.html

 

DC Power - 180A. Great service, no lead time, proven. The stock alternator isnt enough and if you're making more power, having excessive capability & capacity is good insurance.

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/products/...821fed02&_ss=r

 

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I remember seeing the ARD alternator in searches past but the Advance option is new to me. The Advance and ARD come in around the same price point with the Advance being just slightly more when ordered through the Ebay store. It also looks like Advance offers a 150 amp unit but with only one color combo in their Ebay store.

My gut would say go with the Advance 130 because it has good power output, price is good enough, and has good color options to make it disappear in the bay. The drawback I see for me is it not being US based, the customer service could be an issue if needed. DC Power being US based may be the best choice for those of us in the US but it is the priciest of the bunch. Price comparison below

ARD 150 amp --> $330 + $88 shipping = $418
Advance 130 amp --> $353 + $70 shipping = $423 (More if not ordered through Ebay)
Advance 150 amp --> $434 + $70 shipping = $504 (More if not ordered through Ebay)
DC Power 180 amp --> $490 +$40 shipping + (color choice $0-80) = $530 (plus color option if desired)

 

I bought my 200 A Excessive Amperage unit about 10 years ago for $380 +powder coating +shipping. Contact them for an updated price. About 3 week lead time.
@David Hayes ran one in his 20B and recommended it and I'm happy with its performance

 

Mine is still running strong.

 

I’ll see and raise you 70A



.

 

Why do anyone need such an alternator? (genuine question, not meant as a stab)
Huge stereo builds or are modern ECUs and engine equipment that power hungry?

 

^Yes. I can't speak for huge stereo builds as I haven't done that or characterized their current draw, but if you've built a high HP rotary that's running E-fans, one (or more) beefy fuel pumps and a set of high power coils (e.g., IGN-1A's), the current draw from just those electrical loads to run the car adds up real fast. Add on top of that all the other electrical loads (lighting, AC/HVAC blower fan, etc.) and then double the total to accommodate in-rush currents when many of these loads turn on (e.g., an E-fan typically draws 2x~3x its normal running current for the 1st few 1/10's of a second to get spun up to speed) and you're easily up to about 100A (ballpark figure)

FWIW, I used a clamp-on inductive current probe to characterize the total current draw on my FC some time ago because it was eating alternators. My FC is running 4x IGN-1A coils, a single N-D Supra fuel pump, and a single 16" E-fan. I converted all of the external lighting to LEDs and replaced the old seal beam headlights with a HID retrofit, both of which reduced the current draw from lighting significantly over OEM lighting. No big high-power stereo system. With the car cruising at highway speed, and all electrical loads on, I was seeing a current draw of between 20~50A, difference being mainly when the E-fan is on or off. Current draw is significantly higher than this right after the car was started, so if I were to start the car hot (i.e., hot enough for the E-fan to kick in on startup), it would pull 30~70A. This is because the alternator works a bit harder to re-charge the battery right after cranking depletes it some, and as the battery charges back to full, the current draw eventually drops back down to the 20~50A figure.

 

Thanks for the insight!

 

FWIW, i have run an IRP higher output alternator for a few years. i don't recall the A output. recently i added a Radium fuel sump system that required adding another pump. i was running a Hellcat 285 and a 267 on the dyno last Oct and noticed my V had dipped to 13.9. this was without turning on my two Spal IC fans and not running the OE rad fans. my AI pump was running.

i ran out of fuel pump and now have a 274 added.

time for a new alternator. i am looking at the DC Power and Excessive Amp product. i don't need 270 amps. i will be in contact w the two companies and pass on whatever i learn.

 

I’m running a DC Power and been very happy with it.
My setup has 3, 274 pumps. Lift pump, primary and secondary pumps.
IG coils and such.
Performs great and looks good in the engine bay


Steve

 

you likely don’t

but I saw the number pile getting higher and higher and it seemed amusing at the time to post the likely king of the hill

the IGN-1A coil draw isn’t really that high compared to the fuse rating that covers the worst case scenario.
.

 

been waiting around 4 months for the last one I ordered. not sure where you got no lead time.

 

i received email answers from DC Power and Extreme Amps.

i had asked both to respond as to if they knew the A of my IRP. DC indicated it is 140. they offered in the email a 180 and 320. Extreme Amps offers a 200/220. i like that neighborhood as the 180 might not quite be enough margin. if DC Power can't do an alt around 200 i will probably go w the Extreme Amps offering.

 

All of these units supply more amperage, but nobody mentioned voltage output.

The stock alternator puts out high a variable voltage depending on operating temperature.
The colder it is, the higher the voltage and the hotter the lower the voltage.
Not sure what mine stock was but near 14vdc cold charge and around 13.7 vdc hot.

My ARD 150 amp unit runs about 14.1-14.2 vdc cold or hot all the time.

What about yours????????

 

I want to say my dc power shows 14-14.5 regardless of temps or conditions or load, Running 3 walbro 450s (radium sump), ign 1a's, water meth pump etc., I can't imagine anyone truly needing more power unless youre running a dom torretto inspired audio system, underseat nos tanks, a laptop,etc. Of course I jest, but one thing to be aware of is home much your mapping will change and need fueling adjustment, as well as your water meth system. They all behave differently when they get more voltage/amperage. IIRC My base pressure went from 43.5 to 50 or so when I went from an oem alternator to the DC Power 180, no other changes.

 

Many many years ago. I rewired the fuel pump wiring along with keeping the speed relay (positive side of wiring). Some wires were kept but I added a parallel wire for less resistance: (positive side of wiring).
A chassis ground was added at the fuel pump to reduce the resistance for the negative side of wiring. I bypassed the ignition sw with the wiring going directly to the battery + with a new fuse. Off and on still controlled by a relay with ignition ignition switch. .
In all the results were: positive voltage at the pump increased from +11.8vdc to 13.8vdc. 2/11.8 = 16.9% increase in voltage.

 

Has anyone tried Power Bastards alternators? 200 amp. Priced reasonable and are not rebuilt.

https://www.powerbastards.com/prodde...prod=13460-200