Great stuff here, guys.

On the hood prop rod, I pulled mine off to weigh it. It's less than a pound if memory serves. I was thinking about replacing it with a plastic rod or something, you could get a pre-formed rod and use a heat gun to form the shape. But, the weight savings would probably be minimal if that for the effort.

I will say that there's no way those hydraulic hood props weigh less than the stock rod. If you'd like to save weight, ditch those and go back to the rod .

On the battery, an easy way is the Turbojeff battery tray and a 51R battery. The Turbojeff tray does weigh more than the stocker, but it's so well built and designed it's an acceptable weight increase.

The stock Group 35 battery is 35-40 pounds depending on the model you get. The 51R battery is 25 pounds, 10 pound weight savings. A Miata battery (which I'm running) is closer to 20 pounds. Going with one of the mini battery kits gets down to about 10 pounds, but they're not commonly available in parts stores and they're funky to recharge if the battery dies. Lithium batteries are super light, but are still new and exotic and VERY expensive.

On lug nuts, there's many inexpensive alternatives to lighten the lug nuts up. My wheels have covers that go over the lug nuts so you can't see them. I have 19mm lug nuts that are "half" nuts, they aren't full acorn style nuts. They don't weigh much and I think were like $20 for the set if that.

One thing I'm wondering is if you can remove the stock sound deadening tar and replace with Dynomat or something like that for better performance/weight savings. I have a feeling you'd end up with a net weight gain, though. Not to mention Dynamat gets pricey.

Another idea I've had is removing the heater core along with the associated piping in the engine bay and going to electric seat heaters. For mild climates like Florida that could be an option. Not to mention I've yet to be in an FD with a heater that worked worth a damn - the heat in the FC would run you out of the car!

Dale

 

The weight savings from the rod ended up in the 150 gram range iirc - it ended up being a little shorter as it didn't need to contour over the stock airbox stuff.

The hydraulic rams I removed were actually for the hatch - they weigh over 2lbs each with the associated hardware. I also installed a stock thickness lexan window from a UK manufacturer - uses factory seals and really looks and behaves no different from the original piece, but there is a 10 pound savings there.

I've always had bad experiences with mini standard mini batteries like the pc680s and 925s, hence the foray in to lithium stuff. The current tray/battery combo is 6lbs with over 550 cca, which is excellent. The price of the batteries is coming down as well - the unit I purchased is about 300 dollars.

The heater idea is actually what I'm working on right now. Heated seats is not a bad idea, my biggest concern is losing the window defroster. I'd like to get an electric heater/blower unit and keep a little functionality.

Another thing to remove for most modded cars is the charcoal canister and the hardline that runs to it

 

The charcoal canister is plastic and maybe 8 oz at most. How much is there to gain for a lot of foul gas odors?

No wonder stock FDs are increasing in value, because there are fewer and fewer unmolested copies out there.

Now don't get me wrong, saving weight is a great objective, if it's done with purpose

 

I use an etx30la battery in my turbojeff tray. 21.5lb, 400cca, 26ah at 10 amps. AGM so its spill free and available at most parts stores. It fits big jet skis and quads originally.

 

haha, Don't be tryin to start a weight savings thread on the day after Thanksgiving!

Makin me feel all guilty.

 

Wouldn't it be nice if you could drop in a 16X engine?

 

It seems that once again you have found yourself in the wrong thread. Try clicking your heels together three times and chanting "there's no place like stock."

I mentioned the charcoal canister because its made of plastic and... charcoal. Its a couple pound item (I've weighed mine - have you?), especially so when you remove the hardware and associated lines. I also said that it is a move for modified cars as most have not retained enough of the factory emissions system to purge the canister. The fumes are also less noticeable than removing a catalyst, which again most modified cars have done.

You keep going on about the value of an unmolested FD. Bad news: a low mile pristine example "unmolested" car is worth less than a 2014 Mazda 3 gt. Who cares. Might as well do what you want with the car while youre still in good enough health to enjoy it.

 

Don't forget the same 1 lb, depending on where it comes from will affect performance differently. Is it sprung or unsprung? Static or rotational? Where is it in relation to the CG? Some mass is good though, for example: I'd rather have a weighted shift **** than none at all. I'd also rather have a heavier, stiffer chassis than a lighter, softer one.

That said, other "low hanging fruit" is replacing the steering wheel and seats. It sheds weight and more importantly, can improve driver comfort which makes for much faster lap times than losing a few pounds.

Other places that can improve weight without sacrificing too much in terms of comfort, durability, or driveability:
Forged brake calipers
Two piece rotors
Hollow anti-roll bars
Tubular exhaust manifold
Single turbo
Fiberglass front and rear bumpers

I have a fully gutted, track car and a full interior FD. The track car is more exciting, but the FD is way more enjoyable.

 

I have a lot of modifications on my car and I am sure some add weight, others lose weight. my exhaust is super light, but I added a sohn adapter, 2-cycle oil tank, water injection tank + pump, etc.

I have evo-R lights with (4) total 2.5" projectors I am swapping in (bixenon), not sure if that is lower weight than the stock units?

Some of the things that people blow out of proportion on weight savings.

Wider wheels = faster
better wheel rigidity = faster.

These attributes are more important than lightweight wheels. wider wheels and more rigid wheels (to a point) are better than just lightweight...and are faster in terms of road coarse racing.

the tires weight is important, but then again, wider is faster when turning as long as you get them to temp.

I have a heavier PPF (all welded up reinforced) and supports more whp.

Larger radiator + capacity (heavier)

larger brakes = more weight but needed with WHP.

with power + speed comes a little more weight in the right places. the places to carry the weight is the drivetrain support, radiator, wider wheels + tires, brakes.

The places to drop weight are the things around these. I am a fan of stock swaybars, coilovers might drop some weight as well.


smaller battery, get rid of all smog equipment, no ABS, no AC, no cruise, lighter steering wheel, lightweight seats, no interior, lightweight moonroof cover (remove all components), remove all non needed gauges, run of wastegate spring pressure (no boost controller), V-mount intercooler sized on the small size is lighter than a FMIC, Short runner manifold over long runner for weight savings, lightweight flywheel, remove Power steering, single fuel pump over dual, fuel cell (lighter than gas tank?),

 

For those who removed there spare, what did you use to bridge the hole it created in the hatch area?
Mine is like a sinkhole.

 

Man... this thread is slowly going off the rails.

All this should be, is facts. This weighs this much, you can replace it with something that weighs this much. Period end.

Everyone understands there are trade offs with removing items, some of those trade offs people will be willing to make, some won't. It all depends on what that person wants the end goal to be.

If you're building a "race car" you probably don't need to be told "get rid of the airbag because it saves 12oz". On the other hand, if you want a streetable car you probably don't need to be told "but if you pull the entire interior you'll save 40lbs!"

...but both is good info to have.

We need less opinions and more facts. We all understand there are trade offs.

 

I agree. Let's try to keep this thread on track.

Remember, everything on this car was put there for a purpose by Mazda. There are a few things where you don't really compromise on, but most things for weight savings there are tradeoffs.

Also, there is a BIG difference between a street car and a race car. This line gets blurred quite a bit when modifying cars. Also, some people have a tendency to think they're "hardcore" so they gut the whole interior, rip out AC and PS, run a straight pipe with open wastegate, etc. Once you go too far down that path it's hard to go back and you end up with a car that's more of a beater than one of Japan's crown jewel sports cars.

I'm interested in finding ways to creatively save weight without taking too much away from the car. Hell, I'm right at 2700 pounds (if not less) with a giant Blitz front mount, Koyo rad, 99 spec side skirts, 10 pound per corner heavier wheels, and full AC/PS.

One thing I'm going to weigh tonight - my car is an R2 with the second oil cooler. Due to my front mount setup there was no way I could run the stock metal oil cooler hardlines to the 2nd oil cooler. I replaced them when I did my FMIC install a year ago with AN lines and fittings. I'd like to weigh the metal hardline, I very likely lost a few pounds there.

When I get back to the house at some point today I'll post up a few more weights of things I've measured.

Dale

 

+1

Think the sweet spot for a track/street (or performance street) is deleting any unnecessary weight that doesn't detract from drivability nor keep you from reverting back to stock (or near stock)

Heaviest items with that have minimal impact on drivability and are easily reversible are exhaust, seats, battery, spare (if you getting a flat is not a concern) and the rear carpet. A little more significant impact on drivability and reversibility would be turbos, emissions (air pump and cat), and PS. After that detrimental outcomes may outweigh any weight savings to be had.

I'd rather put less gallon of gas in the tank at 6 lbs/gal than delete the charcoal canister

 

Has anybody mentioned removing the totally non-functional 20-30 lb lump of plastic on the back of the hatch of many 3rd gens? Don Fuller at Motor Trend best described it as "a nutball deal with three vents, looks as if it came from a "Design the Car of the Future" contest at a manual arts high school." (Yes, it is still attached to my car.)

 

Weighs less than 10 pounds and is actually a nice hatch handle so it does have a purpose LOL

I've come to like the looks as well

 

This is true and not true, the roof IS a very structural part of the car, even the skin. But if you use the correct adhesives you can get a stronger product then spot welding it and get 100% corrosion protecting unlike welding.

 

Make that 3 left in North America. I just bought number 4 and number 5 was already gone!

 

20-30lb lump? The rear spoiler? Probably weighs 5lbs or less.

 

Maybe the '99 spoiler. It's significantly heavier. Actually has metal inserts in the ends.

 

Trying to do my part instead of just bitch n moan.

Freshly weighed... All OEM.

99 Wing - 12lbs 12oz
99 Bumper w/ Combo Lights - 11lbs 14oz
99 Reinforcement - 9lbs 6oz

The wing and reinforcement were wrapped in bubble wrap, soooo... account for that.

Now if we can get the pre-99 stuff weighed, we'll know exactly how much the upgrade 'costs'.

 

Did my corner balance a while ago but this is my weight without driver and 3/4 tank of gas. The car is a base with vmount, aftermarket wheels, suspension, aftermarket dual oil cooler, race seat, steering wheel, small battery, aftermarket bumper, fenders, hood, full exhaust, and no spare.

 

I think the reviewer was talking about the Bose hose mess.

I got some stuff weighed this weekend, will be posting it up later today .

Dale

 

Over time I have removed hundreds of pounds but also added some along the way. Currently the car weighs 2742 with me(175) and 1/4 tank of gas. Something's that added weight were : 6pt roll cage, fmic intercooler, bigger radiator, oil catch can, co2 tank and solenoids for ams500 boost controller and misc. gauges. I primarily use this car for drag racing but do drive it on the street time to time. It still has a full interior and always will since it's required for the class I race in. Here's what's removed : airbags and sensor, cruise, power steering, ac/heat and every single part that went along with it, abs computer, rear speakers and bracket, dash center speaker, all and any emissions parts, spare tire all tools, horns, windshield wipers and motor, different steering wheel, rear hatch divider, all ac/heat ducting and controls, front tires replaced with skinnies, probably more I'm forgetting. I attached a pic and you can't even tell any parts were removed. Any suggestions of anything missed? Thanks

 

The Tools , that keep my car running . and water / oil / premix

I think the removal of the Spare tire is more for when you are at a track , and you strip the interior . and not a permanent fix. LOL

when you do remove said objects , you should also remove the divider / and the rug

 

What is the weight savings if you replaced every nut and bolt with titanium?

Metric Jetnuts, Metric K-Nuts, Jet Nut