Weight Savings 101
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
Weight Savings 101
Hey guys -
We're lucky to be driving a car where the engineers truly cared about every pound put on the car. While the FD is a featherweight to begin with, we can always make things better.
So, let's start with how heavy the car is bone stock. How the car is optioned will affect the weight, of course - a base manual trans car is of course lighter than a fully loaded touring automatic. Also, the '93s are the lightest - some of the changes in '94 bumped the weight up a little.
According to the dealer brochures -
1993 - 2789 pounds manual, 2857 automatic
1994/5 - 2826 manual, 2881 automatic
This doesn't take into account how the car is optioned. According to -
3rd Generation Rx7
1993 Base manual - 2789
1993 R1 manual - 2800
1993 Touring manual - 2862
The automatic transmission adds 61 pounds.
So, going from a base to an R1 adds 11 pounds - that's for the second oil cooler, strut tower brace, and front and rear spoilers. Going to a touring adds 73 pounds over the base - the Bose hose, sunroof, Bose amps, fog lights add up.
In general, though, if you were buying an FD, you could easily up or lower the spec with bolt-on parts to save or add weight, save for a sunroof car. The sunroof isn't something you can easily or cheaply get rid of.
Of course, the auto adds 61 pounds, and all FD automatic transmissions need to start heading to the scrap metal dealer pronto.
The wonderful thing with the FD is there are VERY few modern cars that can come close to the stock weight, or that are even under 3000 pounds.
OK, so now we know where we're starting. Lets make it better.
Continued in next post.....
We're lucky to be driving a car where the engineers truly cared about every pound put on the car. While the FD is a featherweight to begin with, we can always make things better.
So, let's start with how heavy the car is bone stock. How the car is optioned will affect the weight, of course - a base manual trans car is of course lighter than a fully loaded touring automatic. Also, the '93s are the lightest - some of the changes in '94 bumped the weight up a little.
According to the dealer brochures -
1993 - 2789 pounds manual, 2857 automatic
1994/5 - 2826 manual, 2881 automatic
This doesn't take into account how the car is optioned. According to -
3rd Generation Rx7
1993 Base manual - 2789
1993 R1 manual - 2800
1993 Touring manual - 2862
The automatic transmission adds 61 pounds.
So, going from a base to an R1 adds 11 pounds - that's for the second oil cooler, strut tower brace, and front and rear spoilers. Going to a touring adds 73 pounds over the base - the Bose hose, sunroof, Bose amps, fog lights add up.
In general, though, if you were buying an FD, you could easily up or lower the spec with bolt-on parts to save or add weight, save for a sunroof car. The sunroof isn't something you can easily or cheaply get rid of.
Of course, the auto adds 61 pounds, and all FD automatic transmissions need to start heading to the scrap metal dealer pronto.
The wonderful thing with the FD is there are VERY few modern cars that can come close to the stock weight, or that are even under 3000 pounds.
OK, so now we know where we're starting. Lets make it better.
Continued in next post.....
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
OK, so you'd like to make the car a little lighter. It's a good idea to do a little documentation and science to go with the project.
First, take your car to the scales. Most areas will have a scrap metal place or dump that you can take your car on the scales. Or, if you're near a major interstate corridor, many truck stops and gas stations that cater to big rigs have truck scales. That's what I did - found some CAT scales at a nearby gas station/truck stop. It cost $10, you just roll up on the scale, hit the Call button, and let them know you're doing it for personal use. You get a certified printout.
So, now that you have that, it's good to know what the weight is of parts you're removing, or to compare things you're adding to the car to see what the weight penalty will be. A good set of scales is a great way to do this. I got these -
It has a nice big platform, digital readout, can be run on battery or power cord, and reads up to 110 pounds. You can also change from pounds to grams, and has a TARE button to zero the weight out on the scale - very handy.
You could use a bathroom scale, but they're much more of a hassle and cumbersome to use.
It's also worth having a pen and notepad handy to document things. Then you can share your findings with the forum
.
The one tricky part is, unfortunately, in the States we think in pounds. Big bummer is you have pounds, and pounds divide up into ounces. It's 16 ounces to the pound, and it makes adding up weight a pain in the ***. I haven't found a good weight calculator app for adding pounds and ounces, on my Iphone you can ask Siri to add the pounds and ounces for you, but it's cumbersome for doing a lot of addition.
OK, so let's get started saving weight!
Continued......
First, take your car to the scales. Most areas will have a scrap metal place or dump that you can take your car on the scales. Or, if you're near a major interstate corridor, many truck stops and gas stations that cater to big rigs have truck scales. That's what I did - found some CAT scales at a nearby gas station/truck stop. It cost $10, you just roll up on the scale, hit the Call button, and let them know you're doing it for personal use. You get a certified printout.
So, now that you have that, it's good to know what the weight is of parts you're removing, or to compare things you're adding to the car to see what the weight penalty will be. A good set of scales is a great way to do this. I got these -
It has a nice big platform, digital readout, can be run on battery or power cord, and reads up to 110 pounds. You can also change from pounds to grams, and has a TARE button to zero the weight out on the scale - very handy.
You could use a bathroom scale, but they're much more of a hassle and cumbersome to use.
It's also worth having a pen and notepad handy to document things. Then you can share your findings with the forum
.The one tricky part is, unfortunately, in the States we think in pounds. Big bummer is you have pounds, and pounds divide up into ounces. It's 16 ounces to the pound, and it makes adding up weight a pain in the ***. I haven't found a good weight calculator app for adding pounds and ounces, on my Iphone you can ask Siri to add the pounds and ounces for you, but it's cumbersome for doing a lot of addition.
OK, so let's get started saving weight!
Continued......
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
For saving weight, the first low hanging fruit is the exhaust system. Mazda unfortunately made a REALLY damn heavy exhaust front to back. But, the good thing is something can be done about it, and you get some nice performance out of the bargain.
The stock precat is around 25 pounds (I haven't found a solid documented weight, chime in if you have this, precats are becoming rare fortunately!) and the stock main cat is around 40 pounds. The stock muffler is about 45 pounds from research.
A stainless downpipe I found in my garage is 5.5 pounds, and a high-flow cat welded in a stainles midpipe is 10.5 pounds - HUGE savings there.
On the cat-back muffler, there's a lot of variance. I have a Racing Beat dual tip stainless in the garage right now, it's 26.5 pounds. I also have an Invidia N1-style cat back that's very small and simple, it's 16 pounds 10 ounces.
I've also had a Ganador Titanium cat-back, it was around 10-12 pounds, which is just insane.
So, you can go from stock 110 pounds to 35-40 pounds for the exhaust system in total.
Next up on the easy low-hanging fruit: Clean out your car! I had 1 pound of spare change in my center console box, as well as a 1 pound bottle of water. If you still have the owner's manual, that's a good pound there. Put a copy on your smartphone if you need to have it.
Of course, if you have a giant bass box in your hatch, that's probably 30 pounds of MDF, carpet, and giant subwoofer magnets.
The spare tire and hold down bolt is 20 pounds 12 ounces, I would leave it in on a long car trip, but for around town you can probably just leave it in the garage. The stock jack, fortunately, is aluminum and only weighs 3 pounds 7 ounces. The wheel chock is 13 ounces - I'd just permanently leave that out, there's always something you can make or find to chock a wheel.
The divider panel between the storage bins and hatch is actually 4 pounds 11 ounces - much heavier than one would think! It is good to have to keep things in the hatch from flying up and attacking you, though.
OK, here's a few things I've taken off or found in the garage and weighed:
Fog lights and harness - 3 pounds
Non-Bose hatch carpet - 4 pounds
Air pump - 10 pounds
Power antenna - 1 pound 13 ounces
Cruise control actuator - 2 pounds 9 ounces
Hatch plastics on underside of hatch - 3 pounds 14 ounces
Continued......
The stock precat is around 25 pounds (I haven't found a solid documented weight, chime in if you have this, precats are becoming rare fortunately!) and the stock main cat is around 40 pounds. The stock muffler is about 45 pounds from research.
A stainless downpipe I found in my garage is 5.5 pounds, and a high-flow cat welded in a stainles midpipe is 10.5 pounds - HUGE savings there.
On the cat-back muffler, there's a lot of variance. I have a Racing Beat dual tip stainless in the garage right now, it's 26.5 pounds. I also have an Invidia N1-style cat back that's very small and simple, it's 16 pounds 10 ounces.
I've also had a Ganador Titanium cat-back, it was around 10-12 pounds, which is just insane.
So, you can go from stock 110 pounds to 35-40 pounds for the exhaust system in total.
Next up on the easy low-hanging fruit: Clean out your car! I had 1 pound of spare change in my center console box, as well as a 1 pound bottle of water. If you still have the owner's manual, that's a good pound there. Put a copy on your smartphone if you need to have it
.Of course, if you have a giant bass box in your hatch, that's probably 30 pounds of MDF, carpet, and giant subwoofer magnets.
The spare tire and hold down bolt is 20 pounds 12 ounces, I would leave it in on a long car trip, but for around town you can probably just leave it in the garage. The stock jack, fortunately, is aluminum and only weighs 3 pounds 7 ounces. The wheel chock is 13 ounces - I'd just permanently leave that out, there's always something you can make or find to chock a wheel.
The divider panel between the storage bins and hatch is actually 4 pounds 11 ounces - much heavier than one would think! It is good to have to keep things in the hatch from flying up and attacking you, though.
OK, here's a few things I've taken off or found in the garage and weighed:
Fog lights and harness - 3 pounds
Non-Bose hatch carpet - 4 pounds
Air pump - 10 pounds
Power antenna - 1 pound 13 ounces
Cruise control actuator - 2 pounds 9 ounces
Hatch plastics on underside of hatch - 3 pounds 14 ounces
Continued......
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
There are a few things on the car stock that need to be upgraded but you WILL have a weight penalty. For example, the intercooler. The stock intercooler weighs almost nothing - around 5 pounds if memory serves. But, mass is what's needed for an intercooler - that large mass can absorb heat and shed heat.
Same thing on the wheels. I weighed an old stock wheel and tire of mine, it's right at 36 pounds. But, that's no where near enough rubber for the road for the power I'm making. My rear wheel (old school Racing Beat 3-piece wheel, 17x9) is 47.5 pounds with tire, an 11.5 pound penalty. My wheels are staggered, so the front wheels (17x8) should be less weight, just haven't weighed them yet.
On mufflers, in general, the more of a box and the more mass, the quieter they are. This is one place where titanium can help - it's spendy, but you can (with systems like the Ganador) get a bigger can and more muffling without the weight penalty.
One thing I found today that was a useless bit is the bracket on the brake master cylinder. There's a bracket going around it that holds the plug for the brake level sensor and the brake line block to the right of the master. I believe it's mainly there for ease of assembly in the factory, I really can't see any reason for it to be on the car. It's 8 ounces (a half pound) and it's a pain in the *** to remove with the brake master on the car. With some bending and a cutoff wheel I got mine off today. I used some 3M double-sided tape to hold the sensor plug in place on top of the brake booster.
Removing the AC is always a common way to remove weight, you do of course make the car less girlfriend-friendly, especially in the hot and muggy south. It's around 25 pounds for all the bits and parts. Mazda does have a duct that can go under the dash to replace the evaporator core and links the blower motor and heater core, FYI, for about $35. You can remove the evaporator core under the dash just with removing the glove box, too. If you do remove your AC, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE take your time and remove it in careful pieces and sell the parts on. These parts are getting rare!
Power steering is around 20 pounds with all the lines and cooler loop.
So, that said, I'd like to see some creative ideas on ways to shed some weight, as well as getting the scales out and weighing some parts!
Dale
Same thing on the wheels. I weighed an old stock wheel and tire of mine, it's right at 36 pounds. But, that's no where near enough rubber for the road for the power I'm making. My rear wheel (old school Racing Beat 3-piece wheel, 17x9) is 47.5 pounds with tire, an 11.5 pound penalty. My wheels are staggered, so the front wheels (17x8) should be less weight, just haven't weighed them yet.
On mufflers, in general, the more of a box and the more mass, the quieter they are. This is one place where titanium can help - it's spendy, but you can (with systems like the Ganador) get a bigger can and more muffling without the weight penalty.
One thing I found today that was a useless bit is the bracket on the brake master cylinder. There's a bracket going around it that holds the plug for the brake level sensor and the brake line block to the right of the master. I believe it's mainly there for ease of assembly in the factory, I really can't see any reason for it to be on the car. It's 8 ounces (a half pound) and it's a pain in the *** to remove with the brake master on the car. With some bending and a cutoff wheel I got mine off today. I used some 3M double-sided tape to hold the sensor plug in place on top of the brake booster.
Removing the AC is always a common way to remove weight, you do of course make the car less girlfriend-friendly, especially in the hot and muggy south. It's around 25 pounds for all the bits and parts. Mazda does have a duct that can go under the dash to replace the evaporator core and links the blower motor and heater core, FYI, for about $35. You can remove the evaporator core under the dash just with removing the glove box, too. If you do remove your AC, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE take your time and remove it in careful pieces and sell the parts on. These parts are getting rare!
Power steering is around 20 pounds with all the lines and cooler loop.
So, that said, I'd like to see some creative ideas on ways to shed some weight, as well as getting the scales out and weighing some parts!
Dale
10-8-10-8
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 848
Likes: 12
From: Australia
If your car did not come with cruise control from the factory, they still bolted all the brackets for it onto the side of the throttle body. And the empty cable brackets are made of surprisingly heavy gauge steel. Remove them and the attaching bolts. There's a few ounces.
Sounds odd, but any extra bolts (such as those holding the unused cruise control bracket on the UIM) can be removed if they serve no purpose but to add weight.
If you have a rear window wiper and feel you can do without it, then the wiper arm and the wiper motor bolted to the hatch will save some pounds from above the center of gravity. Its personal preference though.
Body kits such as fiberglass side skirts and extra add-ons that are just for looks, can be removed on a track car.
So can the factory amp hidden in the dashboard, I believe its made by Clarion.
If you remove the fog lights, remember to remove the center console fog light switches and just use plastic blanking plugs.
If you're going to remove the AC as I did, be sure to remove every component- the receiver drier, the alloy pressure lines in the engine compartment, the compressor pump, the front radiator and also the big heavy core inside the heater box. That all adds up.
You'd be surprised, but the difference between 20 large steel lug nuts in your hand vs some smaller more compact lug nuts is maybe a pound. I dislike alloy lugnuts, but if you feel safe with them...
The felt/fiber/cloth insulator blanket on the under side of the hood can be taken off.
The engine lifting lug on the back of the UIM can be removed and stored away until you need it.
There are lighter front strut braces out there, than the factory unit.
Some aluminum coil over suspension struts are lighter than the factory steel struts. (Although aluminum coilovers such as Tein, etc are illegal here in Australia)
Our Targa Tasmania car needed to be the best factory spec in order to compete with the other 'improved factory' Porsches in our class, so we had to retain the twins and powertrain, etc. But we tore every single thing out of that poor 1996 manual FD. Carpet, roof lining, all plastic trims, door trims, most of the dash, race exhaust, absolutely everything that we did not need in a race car. We weighed it near the end of the build, with Targa 2006 looming in front of us, and we got 1020 kilograms. We had to add a full tool kit to the hatch area and whatever else we could find, to get into the 1100 kilogram minimum weight for the class. We fine tuned it to the last kilo by adding and removing individual sockets and ratchets from the toolkit :p Being completely green, we got third place outright in Targa in our class, first time out. Against the current 06 Porsches and such. We were very happy.
Sounds odd, but any extra bolts (such as those holding the unused cruise control bracket on the UIM) can be removed if they serve no purpose but to add weight.
If you have a rear window wiper and feel you can do without it, then the wiper arm and the wiper motor bolted to the hatch will save some pounds from above the center of gravity. Its personal preference though.
Body kits such as fiberglass side skirts and extra add-ons that are just for looks, can be removed on a track car.
So can the factory amp hidden in the dashboard, I believe its made by Clarion.
If you remove the fog lights, remember to remove the center console fog light switches and just use plastic blanking plugs.
If you're going to remove the AC as I did, be sure to remove every component- the receiver drier, the alloy pressure lines in the engine compartment, the compressor pump, the front radiator and also the big heavy core inside the heater box. That all adds up.
You'd be surprised, but the difference between 20 large steel lug nuts in your hand vs some smaller more compact lug nuts is maybe a pound. I dislike alloy lugnuts, but if you feel safe with them...
The felt/fiber/cloth insulator blanket on the under side of the hood can be taken off.
The engine lifting lug on the back of the UIM can be removed and stored away until you need it.
There are lighter front strut braces out there, than the factory unit.
Some aluminum coil over suspension struts are lighter than the factory steel struts. (Although aluminum coilovers such as Tein, etc are illegal here in Australia)
Our Targa Tasmania car needed to be the best factory spec in order to compete with the other 'improved factory' Porsches in our class, so we had to retain the twins and powertrain, etc. But we tore every single thing out of that poor 1996 manual FD. Carpet, roof lining, all plastic trims, door trims, most of the dash, race exhaust, absolutely everything that we did not need in a race car. We weighed it near the end of the build, with Targa 2006 looming in front of us, and we got 1020 kilograms. We had to add a full tool kit to the hatch area and whatever else we could find, to get into the 1100 kilogram minimum weight for the class. We fine tuned it to the last kilo by adding and removing individual sockets and ratchets from the toolkit :p Being completely green, we got third place outright in Targa in our class, first time out. Against the current 06 Porsches and such. We were very happy.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
All good stuff!
One of the guys here removed his rear wiper motor and found a rubber plug that's for a Chrysler diff at the parts store, fit the hole perfectly. Little RTV and you have a good seal.
Good coat of Rain-X on the rear glass and there ya go.
The blank switch plates can be bought new from Mazda or found used, FYI. I also got rid of the exhaust overheat light as it's completely useless, and if you're under the passenger carpet you can remove the sensor that lights that light up.
Dale
One of the guys here removed his rear wiper motor and found a rubber plug that's for a Chrysler diff at the parts store, fit the hole perfectly. Little RTV and you have a good seal.
Good coat of Rain-X on the rear glass and there ya go.
The blank switch plates can be bought new from Mazda or found used, FYI. I also got rid of the exhaust overheat light as it's completely useless, and if you're under the passenger carpet you can remove the sensor that lights that light up.
Dale
A few less trips to McDonalds can provide big weight savings. I think its pretty funny to hear about weight savings from a guy that is 100+ lbs overweight (not referring to anyone specifically). I see a lot of really fat guys racing their cars at events. You wonder how much faster those cars might be with a "fit" driver.
Trending Topics
I went so far as to swap for a wiper-less hatch (thanks Fritz!), and had the sunroof shaved (front window needed to come out anyway). The standard roof is only about $185 from Mazda!... labor paint was a bit more obviously.
Also important is where the weight is located. True, the stock exhaust bits are heavy, and very few folks here are probably still running stock, but it's also the lowest point on the car. For handling purposes, the more weight you remove from up high (like the sunroof) in order to lower your CG, the better. Also, unsprung weight is far worse than sprung weight, so lighter wheels and brakes will yield higher dividends. I've heard folks say that removing 1lb of unsprung weight is like removing 5-7lbs of sprung weight but I don't have anything to substantiate that.
Haven't seen anyone mention a smaller battery.
You have to be careful with weight savings if it's a street car. Unless you tend to drive like a jackass, benefits on the street will be minimal and you risk losing what little refinement the car has/had. If it's mixed use, I doubt many on here are good enough to capitalize on just a few pounds lost. Since my old-guy metabolism kicked in, Adam's suggestion probably makes the most sense for me. I could stand to lose a few.
You have to be careful with weight savings if it's a street car. Unless you tend to drive like a jackass, benefits on the street will be minimal and you risk losing what little refinement the car has/had. If it's mixed use, I doubt many on here are good enough to capitalize on just a few pounds lost. Since my old-guy metabolism kicked in, Adam's suggestion probably makes the most sense for me. I could stand to lose a few.
tow / tie down hooks save 5 tonne just on all 4 of them, and replace with alloy ones or just weld some metal round bar bent, there's lots and lots of bolts are way to long you can cut abit of thread of many bolts and you can drill a small hole just after the nuts on some and place some ss wire to stop the nut coming off if it was ever to come loose.
get a hair cut and trim your nails too. ha ha
get a hair cut and trim your nails too. ha ha
Weighed my car today... 2700lb. '93 Touring with stock wheels
Things that added weight:
3/4 tank of gas
greddy SMIC
RB sway bar brace
Things that reduced weight:
PS removal
A/C removal(except dash components)
Full exhaust replacement
air pump/emissions removal
ETX30LA battery
rear cargo divider removed
rear wiper removed
rear washer removed
manual antenna
bose mess removed
Things that added weight:
3/4 tank of gas
greddy SMIC
RB sway bar brace
Things that reduced weight:
PS removal
A/C removal(except dash components)
Full exhaust replacement
air pump/emissions removal
ETX30LA battery
rear cargo divider removed
rear wiper removed
rear washer removed
manual antenna
bose mess removed
Would be great if mods could delete the sarcastic comments that do not contribute to the thread.
I was never able to do the complete breakdown of individual items and their effects over the years so it is appreciated that some have put the information in the public domain.
Currently
1270kg - 93 Touring 610kgs front/ 660kgs rear
Full tank of gas
Full 8 L of water injection fluid
Stereo aftermarket with 4 channel amp
21lb battery
Full interior
No jack or tools
Full carpet
All bose components eliminated
Single turbo with heavy Hks cast manifold
3" stainless with two oval mufflers Tanabe Touring medalion
I was never able to do the complete breakdown of individual items and their effects over the years so it is appreciated that some have put the information in the public domain.
Currently
1270kg - 93 Touring 610kgs front/ 660kgs rear
Full tank of gas
Full 8 L of water injection fluid
Stereo aftermarket with 4 channel amp
21lb battery
Full interior
No jack or tools
Full carpet
All bose components eliminated
Single turbo with heavy Hks cast manifold
3" stainless with two oval mufflers Tanabe Touring medalion
Any more details on this you can share like part numbers or a write up of how to make this change?
Weight saving is fun but it can be a slippery slope haha. Grabbing a scale as mentioned above is a great piece of advice - it really helps you to be conscious of what is going into and out of the car. Couple things ive done that I haven't seen mentioned yet:
- lithium iron battery with titanium tray
- titanium hood prop
- ti lug nuts (almost 2lbs saved!)
- machined air pump fittings off of the water pump housing
- replace rear hatch shocks with 993 CSRS hood prop
- lightweight hardware for non-critical items
- carbon short shifter and drilled shift ****
- replace rear carpeting with thinner material
There is a lot of weight to come out of the car, but doing so without just pulling parts off or making the car terrible is the real trick. It takes a lot of effort to beat Mazda at the lightweight game
- lithium iron battery with titanium tray
- titanium hood prop
- ti lug nuts (almost 2lbs saved!)
- machined air pump fittings off of the water pump housing
- replace rear hatch shocks with 993 CSRS hood prop
- lightweight hardware for non-critical items
- carbon short shifter and drilled shift ****
- replace rear carpeting with thinner material
There is a lot of weight to come out of the car, but doing so without just pulling parts off or making the car terrible is the real trick. It takes a lot of effort to beat Mazda at the lightweight game
Agreed. I removed not only the Bose stuff but the whole head unit, door and dash speakers as well. Replaced the touring leather seats with 11 lb race seats. Removed a bunch of the trunk plastics and sound deadening. No tunes, barely padded seats, droning exhaust, no cruise, increased road noise, etc. all add up to a less than ideal highway driving experience. I'd keep stripping stuff off if I had a tow vehicle but as it is I have to drive the car everywhere I want to go. And all this for what, probably 2/10ths of a second faster lap times? Nothing that couldn't be overcome with more tire, power, brakes or better driving 
Agreed. I removed not only the Bose stuff but the whole head unit, door and dash speakers as well. Replaced the touring leather seats with 11 lb race seats. Removed a bunch of the trunk plastics and sound deadening. No tunes, barely padded seats, droning exhaust, no cruise, increased road noise, etc. all add up to a less than ideal highway driving experience. I'd keep stripping stuff off if I had a tow vehicle but as it is I have to drive the car everywhere I want to go. And all this for what, probably 2/10ths of a second faster lap times? Nothing that couldn't be overcome with more tire, power, brakes or better driving
And how does this affect the car's value?
This really isn't a new topic (a very quick search):
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...u-done-907142/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...my-car-727162/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...weight-719421/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...weighs-680534/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ntissa-619498/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...sembly-400570/
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
part number is FD01-61-150B, there are 5 left in the world so buy now
Thank you.
It's the whole skin—to about half way down the A and B pillars... it's non-structural, so you just cut the old one off and weld/structural adhesive the new one onto the unibody. I think it saved about 25 lbs. Super clean, you can't even tell from the inside.