Weight Reduction Part VI Results.
#27
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Originally Posted by the_glass_man
What did you do with the tuna cans underneath the seats and rear bins?
#31
wow that IS light
have you thought about taking out fuel tank and replacing it with a smaller aluminum tank? just a guess, but it might drop your weight a bit. plus the fact that youll only have like 1/4 tank of gas at all times. ive seen it done on a lot of FDs in japan.
man it must be awesome to drive a FD that light...i dont know if i could go for the noise level though. then again if your just tracking it, its not so bad.
man it must be awesome to drive a FD that light...i dont know if i could go for the noise level though. then again if your just tracking it, its not so bad.
#34
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Originally Posted by redsuns3838
have you thought about taking out fuel tank and replacing it with a smaller aluminum tank? just a guess, but it might drop your weight a bit. plus the fact that youll only have like 1/4 tank of gas at all times. ive seen it done on a lot of FDs in japan.
man it must be awesome to drive a FD that light...i dont know if i could go for the noise level though. then again if your just tracking it, its not so bad.
man it must be awesome to drive a FD that light...i dont know if i could go for the noise level though. then again if your just tracking it, its not so bad.
It's not a track car, woman.
#35
is that rice i smell?
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alright seems like a great thread to post this, i wanna get down to around 2600 or 2500 but like most people it gets hot in the summer and cold as **** in winter so id like to keep the creature comfort, i was gona remove all the stock sound deadning but replace with lighter weight better performing dynomat, i was gona go with 15 gallon aluminum tank, the ford 8.8 rear with chromemolly axels, wich i know the 8.8 is about 8 pounds lighter, the axels save another 8 pounds, aluminum drive shaft, fiberglass fenders, carbon hatch lexan rear window, lighter better suspension, someone start throwin ideas at me here so i know more what to do, if lupe is under 2300 it seems 2500 is a reasonable goal even if keeping ac and heat
#36
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What do you want to keep? That's the real question. What is the car for? If its a street car, you're wasting your time. If it's a purpose built car, just find out what you need and ditch everything else. If you are just trying to ditch weight for the hell of it, you're going to end up with an empty hull that has zero creature comforts.
#39
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Originally Posted by Tim Benton
It's already got an aluminum driveshaft and a CF driveshaft will save you 3 pounds and set you back about a $1000. Where did you get the weight comparisons on the chromoly driveshafts and the stock drive shafts?
Tim
Tim
#41
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Originally Posted by scotty305
LUPE, have you replaced any of your hardware (nuts, bolts, & washers) with aluminum or nylon? I'm sure that would save another pound or two. If nothing else, it would keep you busy for a while...
-s-
-s-
#42
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the car is a street/strip car (strip on the weekends if i have the day off) as far as what i want, i dont want it to be too noisy, but whatever im use to it by now, its alot louder without the shifter surround that bolts to the tranny hump and the center councel out as well, those are going back in tho and things should get quiter, ac is important, heat can prolly go for the soul purpose of it gets hot in that car even without the heat on, and im prolly moving to a warmer climate soon, airbags are not nessisary but have saved my life in the past with a previouse car so sketchy about that one, and as far as the rear end axel weights thats the weight i got reading about the jimlab 8.8 conversion, lol and lupe at a little over 600 hp and under 2300 pounds your car must get up and move, front end get pretty light when your on the gas?
#43
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2780 stock
-15 lbs SS downpipe
-20 lbs SS mid pipe
-20 lbs Ti cat back
-10 lbs Miata battery
-25 lbs rem spare tire & jack
- 5 lbs rem Rear luggage/bin separator panel
- 5 lbs rem front & rear tow hooks
-20 lbs rem air pump & emmisions
-10 lbs light weight pulleys & flywheel
----------------
2650 lbs for less than $2000
-30 lbs racing seats
-15 lbs carbon fiber rear hatch
- 5 lbs carbon fiber hood
----------------
2600 lbs with almost all interior and creature comforts
-15 lbs SS downpipe
-20 lbs SS mid pipe
-20 lbs Ti cat back
-10 lbs Miata battery
-25 lbs rem spare tire & jack
- 5 lbs rem Rear luggage/bin separator panel
- 5 lbs rem front & rear tow hooks
-20 lbs rem air pump & emmisions
-10 lbs light weight pulleys & flywheel
----------------
2650 lbs for less than $2000
-30 lbs racing seats
-15 lbs carbon fiber rear hatch
- 5 lbs carbon fiber hood
----------------
2600 lbs with almost all interior and creature comforts
#44
PARTS GALORE!
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i don't know if it has been posted yet but the easiest things to take off to make your car lighter, but still be able to drive it daily is by removing the bumper supports and stuff like that. the ac obviously takes off lots of weight as well. if you're really worried about the weight thing and want good *** results and you're **** like i am: get a light *** flywheel, get drilled and slotted brake rotors, get lighter wheels, get a carbon fiber hood (doesn't take off as much as you think though), get a carbon fiber hatch (now that takes some off), get plexiglass replacements for all your windows, take off your ac, get non flip-up headlights, get an upgraded exhaust and defintely replace your downpipe, and change other little things and take off anything else that you can think of that wont bother you when you're daily driving it. i haven't weighed my car yet cause it's not done yet, but once i'm done it wont be much further than lupe's weight. if anything, it'll be less (no offense to lupe or anything; your car's real tight bro). hope that kinda helped some people and i hope it wasn't too off topic in the sense that we weren't talking about all the ways of reducing weight.....
-erik
-erik
#45
PARTS GALORE!
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oh ya i forgot to mention removing the air pump and getting lighter pulleys. if you even have more money left after all of that, you could even upgrade to a lighter and better clutch and pressure plate to remove any extra weight so your engine doesn't have to waste any more hp than it needs to until it gets down to your wheels....
-erik
-erik
#47
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I'm having an aluminum shaft made for my 20b conversion. I should have pricing info in 2 weeks. I can probably have a few extras made in the stock length. I don't think the weight difference will be significant though. If anyone is interested shoot me a PM.
#48
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Originally Posted by Matt Hey
2780 stock
-15 lbs SS downpipe
-20 lbs SS mid pipe
-20 lbs Ti cat back
-10 lbs Miata battery
-25 lbs rem spare tire & jack
- 5 lbs rem Rear luggage/bin separator panel
- 5 lbs rem front & rear tow hooks
-20 lbs rem air pump & emmisions
-10 lbs light weight pulleys & flywheel
----------------
2650 lbs for less than $2000
-30 lbs racing seats
-15 lbs carbon fiber rear hatch
- 5 lbs carbon fiber hood
----------------
2600 lbs with almost all interior and creature comforts
-15 lbs SS downpipe
-20 lbs SS mid pipe
-20 lbs Ti cat back
-10 lbs Miata battery
-25 lbs rem spare tire & jack
- 5 lbs rem Rear luggage/bin separator panel
- 5 lbs rem front & rear tow hooks
-20 lbs rem air pump & emmisions
-10 lbs light weight pulleys & flywheel
----------------
2650 lbs for less than $2000
-30 lbs racing seats
-15 lbs carbon fiber rear hatch
- 5 lbs carbon fiber hood
----------------
2600 lbs with almost all interior and creature comforts
#49
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Originally Posted by Julian
That is what I had heard, but a magnet told me different. Mine is a thin wall steel tube drive shaft on a 94 R2
#50
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Originally Posted by DougFD3S
You removed 55 lbs in the exhaust alone? How much does the stock exhaust weigh?
stock cat 30 lbs - SS midpipe 8-10 lbs = 20+ lbs savings
stock catback 33 lbs - GReddy Ti 10 lbs (w/o SS bracket) = 20+ lbs savings
For a car that was picked over to reduce weight you wouldn't think 50-60 lbs could be removed from the exhaust but the stock exhaust is unbelievably heavy.