speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

I just finished with rebuilding and installing the engine. I've run into problems with getting it started (bad clutch switch and old fuel, both fine now) and when I first got it started it ran really rough, almost like a stuck seal. Turns out the spark plugs were very gunked up so I cleaned them and checked for spark, all came out good.

Now I'm having a problem with the idle wavering between about 900 and whatever I have the idle set at. When I first started it yesterday with the plugs clean and it actually running smoothly, it immediately had a wavy idle. I had adjusted the TPS (1 is now .40 and 2 is now .93) because 1 was at .83 and 2 was at 1.4 IIRC.

I adjusted my idle up today before I started it (I have a streetport btw and was told it would need to idle around 1100 at least), and when it started it was set around 3000 so I backed it down to around 1600 and it didn't want to go below that. I was trying to get it down to around 1100 or 1200 and I had to force the throttle cable down to that, and when I did the car died out. When I restarted it, it idled smoothly at around 1500-1600 again and then started wavering again. I tried to adjust the idle to see how it affected the situation and all it did was waver higher to whatever I adjusted the idle up to. For example, with the idle set at 1300 it would waver between about 900 to 1300, and when I set it up to 1600 it would waver between about 900 to 1600. It slowly started to waver more and more slow until it was about to die out so I just shut the car off. I started it again about 10 minutes later and it started wavering right away.

Any ideas? Has anyone encountered this before? Could it be I adjusted my TPS just a little too far?

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Oh I forgot to mention, on this build I deleted the air pump, EGR, AWS, DT, and ACV. I'm also running a PFC and the pins are already broken out of it (bought it used). It's tuned for intake and exhaust, and I have the intakes, DP, MP and exhaust along with a streetport, so I know it will have to be retuned.

pinkrx7

iTrader: (2)

ehh pins broken? exactly which pins? do you know what they are for did u re-solder it? did u adjust tps when warm? Thermowax rod is supposed to move out when the engine is warm so your TPS setting should be for a warm engine.. have you checked ect sensors?

okay after your second post, removing your airpump without tune can do that..

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

The pins missing are the ones that are supposed to be missing/broken/wires cut etc, to run a PFC...EGR, split air bypass and AWS if I remember correctly. So that shouldn't be an issue, I'm just trying to be complete as possible in the description.

I did run the car for about 10 minutes before I adjusted the TPS, and I referenced the commander while doing it. But it's odd because I had to adjust it all the way to one side to get it within proper specs. So I think I'm going to go back to that and readjust and see if it does anything.

ECT sensors? What exactly are you referring to? All the previous owner of the PFC owner told me is that it was tuned for exhaust and intake, I assume that's without the air pump as well but I could be mistaken.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Double post.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Come to think of it, how would anything to do with the air pump affect idle? It doesn't even come into play at idle.