Warning on Remans

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Sep 26, 2004 | 11:19 AM

#26

GoodfellaFD3S

Original Gangster/Rotary!

iTrader: (213)

Joined: Mar 2001

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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!

Quote:

Originally Posted by SWAT81

could you post a pic on where this bolt is for the noobs?

What, the main crank bolt? It's um, located on the end of the main crank

. Follow any of the belts down, and the dual pullies on the bottom front of the motor is the main crank.

Nov 8, 2004 | 03:20 AM

#27

ejmack1

Lawn Ornament

Joined: Apr 2001

Posts: 2,416

Likes: 2

From: St Louis, USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigIslandSevens

Also wanted to add that When i took the water pump off for painting the engine and tapping for the water temp sender. I noticed that they( the builders) used the correct gaskets AND a ton of "Hondabond" gasket maker. So much so that it had run into the water jacket area of the block and the pump, housing and thermostat as well. The thermo actually had a bunch of loose sealer stuck inside it.

The sealent was still soft so when the engine would have been run, it all would have been pushed thru the system. Potentially plugging the radiator insides,turbo cooling lines etc.., causing cooling issues.

Just one more thing to check and spend a extra 10 bucks on the new gaskets. And scrape all the goo out of the water pump assembly.

If i find more I will add to the thread accordingly. Sorry to bring this back, just trying to prevent bad things for others.

Aloha, Dave

fyi I had a bad engine last year... it would overheat constantly... i checked everything and ran without a thermostat even... i came to my own conclusion that water jacket or something was plugged up... good thing that i got the motor from Ray... he had one shipped to me VERY quickly...

Nov 9, 2004 | 12:08 AM

#28

spurvo

don't race, don't need to

Joined: Oct 2002

Posts: 1,292

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From: Tri-Cities, WA

Had some pretty sketchy rotor bearings on mine (reman) when Rob at Pineapple tore it down last year (i.e I had it drop shipped right to Pineapple for the re-vamp). No babbiting in the journals, and one looked like it hadn't been brazed. Wierd. 11K miles on rebuild, nary a problem with it since, tho. Seems to me a reman ought to be a reasonable place to START with, then have it sent to a reputable shop or tear it down yourself if you are so inclined. Just so you don't have to go through the massive pain in the head of re-popping ALL THAT STUFF again, right?

Good luck with all of it, sounds like Ray takes care of ALL of us, huh? Like that guy...

Nov 9, 2004 | 01:06 AM

#29

BigIslandSevens

Thread Starter

Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary

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From: Denver, NC

Yeah Ray is a great guy. He understands that this is a customers car and that i am eating the time involved in this ordeal. He is needless to say Pissed off about the whole situation with the engines coming out here. between the one getting damaged and the other missing parts.. But he is doing everything he can to make it right.

That said, I agree that a reman is a good place to start, HOWEVER, I also dis-agree that we as customers of Mazda. Should have to question the product that they are putting their name and reputation on. They ( mazda) claim that the reman parts are the same quality as what came in the car originally. ( we all know that is a farse

) But the point is you are paying for what Mazda claims to be original replacement parts. They should then meet the original standards. Which was at least 50Kmiles on average

Oh well. **** happens and in business it happens bigger. Now the only question is who do i go after for all the lost labor costs involved in 2 engine R&R's and a Flat rate for a rebuild. ( anyone know off hand what Mazda claims for flat rate on that?)
I am thinking Williams Tech owes me some lost labor

But realize that it is a huge long shot that anyone will reimburse me. Such is life!

Still waiting on the Mazda Reps approval to tear down the engine.