ArchangelX

Welps..

Thanks to this forum, I got rid of THREE of the most ANNOYING rattles in my car today.

1. The annoying HOOD SQUEAK OF DOOM...a good search, and a quick fix (temporary till I can get some washers) of electrical tape on the bump stops, and some lubricant on the hinges and latch and it's GONE!!! Woot! My car no longer sounds like it's going to fall apart! (er..besides the clunk).

2. I removed my jack and tire wrench. Took care of that bouncing back and forth(the towel WASN'T helping). I'll throw it in whenever I'm going on long trips, but as long as I've got a Cell phone and am paying for RA through my insurance..I can live with it.

3. Fixed the annoying rear hatch creak. Lubed up the hinges, and taped the latch. The creaks are BANISHED to the netherworld.

Now..for the few remaining rattles and creaks:

The most important one of them all is a loud "CLUNK" noise in the front of the car.

This is what happens. As I accelerate from a stop, you'll hear a loud "clunk" or "thud" as the body shifts to the rear. If I'm coming to a stop, you'll hear another clunk, as the body moves forward against the stop.

I mean it's a pretty LOUD clunk..like something just isn't right. It's not the springs, struts, or bushings, because I had them replaced. I've also had the brake pads replaced, new rotors, and new steel brake lines. I had the clunk BEFORE these changes.

So what could it be? A CV joint?

And finally...my interior panels are really creaky. Let's say you're going to get outta the car..or when you're closing your door. If I grab my interior door handle, it'll creak as the plastic mushes against each other. Like it's all creaky, and old.

Is there any way to alleviate this? I've considered ripping the panel apart, and applying some type of buffer or gel to the inside (like hot glue) to keep this from happening? Is this a good idea? Does anyone suggest anything?

The places where it creaks are the plastic bin where the door handle resides...right there is horrible.

Any suggestions guys? Thanks...

johnchabin

iTrader: (2)

Clunking could be the Propeller (Drive) Shaft... more specifically the Universal Joint(s).

Section L of the Workshop Manual.

ArchangelX

Hmm..

I just took a look at it...it doesn't sound like it's from the center of the car...more like the left side.

Thanks for the info..I'm reading it now.

2-Rotor

Hmmm, when you changed the front brake pads did you make sure that you put the shims back on the back side of the pads? If there are no shims it will make a clunk as the pad sits inside the caliper. Let me explain a little more in depth, with out the shims the play will exist between the pistons and the pad in the caliper. When you brake the piston will then extend out further and push against the brake rotor and the noise will stop if no shims are/were in place. Its when you release the brake and the piston retracts that the play and the noise start again.

Stevey629

wow. Never thought of that before. I have that same clunk noise. I posted a while ago about that clunk, and it essentially happens at parking lot speeds sometimes, or like archangelx was saying, from stops and starts. I was told it was loose A-arms or something, having to do with the wheel and suspension area. I never heard of the brake thing, neither the u-joint thing. The u-joint noise is a different one, which I think I have as well. Its like a deep thud noise when put in and out of gear, and I get it every now and then, but its not really a metal clank or clunk. That clunk is a different noise. Maybe I should check my brakes. Good call.

johnchabin

iTrader: (2)

Section L tells you to take the drive shaft off the car to check it. If it's bad enough, you might be able to check it right on the car... they can be fairly obvious if they are bad.

Of course, that is if this is the problem. The missing brake shim theory sounds interesting, though.

jr

Just an FYI on brake shims. If your running Hawk pads the shims are now built in to the pad and you should not use the OEM shims with them.

ArchangelX

Welps...the brake shims are the little metal pieces that you put over the pad, right?

There's two for each side....when I switched out the pads, I did make sure that they were placed back in the same spot.

I use EBCs....but I think when I get my alignment done, I'm just going to have Les Schwab take a look at it.

Once I get that clunk done..my problems will be almost over when it comes to noise.

Any ideas about those interior door handle creaks?

maxpesce

The CLUNK might be DIFF Bushings
or Other Suspension Bushings/Joints.
Could also be a Cracked PPF
Missing pad shims WON'T cause Clunking related to SHIFTING usually missing shims cause Squeeling &/or Chattering