spandy

iTrader: (1)

I knew you would eventually see this and chime in.

I can't wait to send mine off to Brian....might be a while though, I just want to get it back on the street!!!

Goukid2

I dont know why my primary turbo went. Honestly i think it was due to boost but if you guys are running more than 15 psi than i dont know. When my car was Automatic it boosted fine at 10 psi. When i converted it to 5 speed i did the research and everyone said 14 was the limit on the stockers. Soooooo I ran 14.5. Id say maybe 3 months later and i started noticing some serious serious smoke at idle. One day i just looked behind me and was like "No ******* way is that my car". Sure enough it was. Took off the primary turbo's Intake and bang, blades had super play in them, up and down like a mary go round and side to side like a ****! It was fine at 10 but i guess 14.5 was to much. I have a damn near new set right here in my living room with only 35,000 miles on it. Same 7 i got my 5 speed tranny from and i was gonna send that to BNR for a upgrade but said screw it because i want to make over 350 at 15 psi so i just went single. I loved the way they spooled especially with Rob Baileys solenoids. They will be missed. Plus i dont have BNR money right now. But honestly if i did id go BNR.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't call them a waste of money.

There are several factors on why to get BNR's

1)Old turbos are shot, new from mazda they are like three grand, used turbos can actually be just as bad or worse than your old ones. BNR's are $2350 and are rebuildable.

2)Smog laws

3)Some people do not want 400+ HP nor the lag of a turbo. Auto x-er's are a perfect example. BNR's in sequential form at 14 psi (350 ish RWHP) = sweet.

4)They are more efficient than stockers.

so basically if one's old turbos are shot, don't want to be HP monster, and be smog legal BNRs is the clear winner.

Topolino

iTrader: (2)

+1 on montego's post. i upgraded to the efini twins a few years back during an engine reman + other bolt-on mods. unfortunately, at the time of the rebuild, the stage 3s were not on the market yet. anyway, my tuner recommended the efini twins, and since these were essentially upgrades to the originals, i went that route.

if i had to do it all over again, the bnr stage 3s would be the way to go if wanting to stay sequential (compared to stock twins & '99 spec twins).

pinkrx7

iTrader: (2)

you ran 11's with those rims and tires?

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Hoosier Drag Radials 225/50/16 for the drag strip on stock FD wheels, I used to run MT ET Street Radials 255/55/16 but they were too big and heavy, 10 lbs heavier than the Hoosiers, the bigger diamater and heavier MT tires slowed the car down, and I got slightly better 60 foot times with the Hoosiers - Recommended!! IMO 4.30 gears are needed for those 26" ET street's. Spare wheels and motorcycle tires for the front when drag racing.

matty

i was trapping 119.x at etown last night...boost was 15.5psi. my ets were just horible though. its funny how i got 12.2 with 300rwhp and 12.2 with 360rwhp....only tthing that has improived is my trap.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Are you spinning all the way through 1st and 2nd gear on street tires or something? Sounds like you probably need more practice to reduce the 60ft times, that can take a long time to get good at. 119 is real good, you could be mid or high 11's

matty

i wheel hop/spin 1st then back off throttle to get traction.. then i shift to second and i spin like mad again....back off throttle and get traction for rest of run./ people where coming over and was like that little rx7 flies after 330 mark. i tell them i am spinning till then

twokrx7

iTrader: (1)

If your stock turbos are not making more than 15 psi it could be that your resonated mid muffler is coming apart internally and causing back pressure (seen this before), or perhaps the wg flapper has moved and is not covering up all of the wg hole (seen this before after pulling the turbos off, but this was with a ported wg hole that is begger than stock), or you just need to fix your stock bc or put an aftermarket bc on the car.

I've also had issues with bc's in the past, the old greddy profec b is the best I've used, all other fancy bc's that I've used don't hold boost constant to redline and just have too many adjustments in an attempt to compensate for their lousy boost control algorithms.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like you need some slicks or drag radials like some hoosiers I have if you want to get some traction and much better times. Most of the time I don't spin at all.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Is there a way to hold the wastegate closed somehow, wire it closed or something like that, and see real quick if the boost shoots up higher than 15 psi ? If there is maybe you could do that just to see if they will boost more, and if they do then you probably need a boost controller.

RotaryBred

i used the "home depot" valve setup to control my boost with the PFC. works fine, i can boost way over 15psi. just gotta adjust it right. if ur not familiar with it, just install a needle valve between ur wastegate solenoid and wastegate. closing the valve all the way will "wire" the wastegate shut so to speak. use it to fine tune ur boost limits on the PFC as well. i also did the same thing with my precontrol so i don't have any lag in between turbo spools.

matty

where is rocky hill CT? i am shelton ct (northern part ffld county) perhaps we can meet and install the hd boost controller. i will pay u.

oh btw...will the higher and lower boost setting still work on the power fc if u run the hd bc?

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Probably. having the home depot valve setup you can turn the valve to open or close it and that will adjust your boost level. The more it is closed, the higher boost you will get. Install it and start out with it more open, then gradually close the valve while testing until you start to see that boost raise above 15 hopefully.