drewthrewpoo

Well i took some stuff off the engine today to look for cracked or brocken hoses because i have a pretty bad boost leak. Well we found a few that were messed up and replaced them....3 of the to be exact. So hopefully that may help...well when i started the car it was ok....but when i hit the brakes my guage lights sorta dimmed a tad....i let off....they got a little brighter.....hardly at all but enough where i noticed. It's never doen that before. Well i hit the brakes again and they semi dim again and when i put it in gear the car shook and sounded like it was having a tought time idling...kinda like it wanted to cut off. Well i took it out and it started idling normal again. I put it back into gear and it started again....i had my dad look at the motor while all this was going on and he said nothing he could see was wrong. Do u think a vaccum line could do this because we were messin with a few of them today. I put it in reverse and 1st gear and it did the same thing....everytime i did it which is about 5 or 6 times. Im not sure what to look for or what could be causing this. Has anyone ever heard of this happening before?

Andrew

spurvo

is this happening when you put the clutch in but not put it into a gear?

Does it happen when you put it into any gear? I know you did reverse, how 'bout the others?

Did you pull the UIM for the hoses? Did you remember to re-ground the engine block to body connector? I'm thinking ground here for the lights and the idle problem, but then I'm not all that well versed in these types of problems yet!!

Lot's o' luck!!

drewthrewpoo

Um well i put it into 1st and reverse and it did it....i backed the car up a few feet and when i give it gas it's somewhat ok.........about the re-ground the engine block to body connector...i have no clue what that is. Im sorry im farely new to FD's And the clutch was pressed in all the way when it was shaking.....only when i put it into a gear though. Other than that if it was in neutral with the clutch in or not it was fine...but once i put it into a gear it immediatley started. And yes we moved the UIM to get a better look at some hoses. Thanks for any help


Andrew

drewthrewpoo

Am i the only one that's ever experienced this? I drove it a little last night and it was ok but it's just when i would not have the gas pressed at all when i was stopped...that's when it would shake like a mo fo.

FDjunkie

Leaky clutch hydraulics maybe allowing the clutch to drag???? Does the clutch begin to grab (try to move the car) when the pedal just barely comes up off the floor?

What is the RPM at idle before and after putting it in gear?

drewthrewpoo

Well....im not sure about the clutch trying to grab...ill go see in a sec...but my tach is broken and doesnt work right now....everyone said the solder is messed up but i ripped the car apart and cant find where they are talkin about...but that's another post so im not gonna ask about that one. But i do notice the oil pressure fluctuates alot when i put it into gear.



Andrew

drewthrewpoo

Well all i know is that when i put it into any gear it will shake...my friend and my dad said it might be the clutch...i was thinking that also because when i press it in it will make a noise also....does this sound like it's the problem? Im short on money and cant afford to fix anything big...i hope it's nothing crazy. Thanks

FDjunkie

It sounds to me like there are two possibilities, and unfortunately, it could be one or both issues.

If the clutch is dragging it means that it is not releasing completely and therefore, whenever you place the transmission in gear, the engine is being loaded down as if you were trying to start the car moving but without giving the engine any gas at all.

1. The least costly problem might be that you just need to bleed the clutch system. You do this just like would bleed brakes. I found that both of my FD’s (’93 then my current ‘95} need the clutch to be bleed soon after I took delivery. Only had to do this once on each car. A quick test:

With the car stopped, engine warmed up and running, rapidly pump the clutch pedal 3 or 4 or 5 times. Be sure and let the pedal come all the way up between strokes. Then finally press and hold the pedal to the floor. Shift in to 1st or reverse and see if the engine remains smooth. If so, continue to hold the pedal down to the floor for several minutes. During this time notice if the engine slowly begins to drop RPM and/or start shaking. If pumping seems to help and/or the shaking begins after a minute or so, then it’s a good bet you’ve found the problem.

2. The next least expensive but still somewhat common problem is for the hydraulic seals in the clutch slave cylinder (mounted on the transmission bell housing) to wear out and result in less than full release travel in the linkage. Normally you would expect to see some brake fluid leaking under the car and the clutch reservoir will be low on fluid. You might be able to drive the car in this condition for a week or two before it completely fails, but when it fails you will not be able to release the clutch at all! Very very dangerous, especially in traffic. The same test above might help verify this condition, too.

3. The more expensive and harder to verify or correct possibility is that the clutch itself is failing or damaged and is dragging. In this case the above tests will NOT make any difference. You might also expect to hear louder than normal noises (like you already mentioned) whenever the clutch is pressed in, and it may be difficult to start the car moving from a complete stop without being jerky. In other words the clutch will quickly grab when the pedal is slowly released. This one is harder to test, but if you can find another FD driver see if he/she/it will let you make a quick test drive so that you can compare, and get them to test you car, too. This may be your best way to identify this condition. Be aware that there is an inspection hole on the bell housing that you MIGHT be able to see something, but I doubt it would be of much help. Generally for you to be able to see anything it means the damage is really bad; like completely broken, blown-up, etc.

Anyway, I hope some of this is helpful. It its still not clear though, shoot me a PM and I’ll try again. Good luck.

spurvo

FDjunkie = Mr Clutch!!

Nice advice, dude!!!

drewthrewpoo

Well i drove it to work today and it was ok as long as it was out of gear at a stop...it drove normal except idling. And yesterday i started the car to show my friend what was goin on and it didnt do it for a while when it was in gear...but after a min or so it started slowly dropping and then started doing it again. So that sound kinda like what u described for the first symptom. This hasnt happend at all until we replaced about 3 hoses on the car that were cracked...we didnt break anything or mess anything up as far as i know....i was very careful because i hear people breakin the plastic nipples off a lot. Then right after we got done with that i started the car and it made a crazy noise......but my friend forgot to hook up a vaccum line to the intake manifold...it's the one beside where i tapped into for the boost controller(im guessing like most people do). I will probably try to bleed it and see what happens....and yea thanks a lot for the advice...you know ur tranny's and clutches dont ya? ...if you have any more input just let me know. Thanks again bro

Andrew