can i have as much info on block off plates as you guys can give me: like what you block off when you go single turbo w/ a oil only cooled turbo and what a block of plate kit blocks off, and the function of every spot you block off before you blocked it off.


??

 

like these things can somebody explain them in detail i know what some are but others im in the dark. and what the purpose of blocking them off is.

ACV
Split Air
AWS Pipe
EGR Valve
ISC/BAC Solenoid
Double Throttle

 

removal of the double throttle frees up the intake track and prevents your car from running slugish when its not completly warmed.

egr is removed because its not nessesary if you dont live in a non-emissions area. doesnt really improve anything, it just prevents the valve from sticking open(very bad).

as for the others, i am not totally sure. but in essence most of them just free up space, reduce complications, or remove excess weight.

i posted egr and double throttle removal "how to's" below, if you plan on needing them. there is also a website i got from mahjik that lisks all the fd block off plates that you'll need.

egr removal:
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/egr.htm

double throttle:
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/double_throttle.htm

all block-off plates ordering site:
http://www.2751engineering.com/fd_block_off_plates.htm

 

Curious, why would you use a oil only cooled turbo?

If you do, you'd be the first person who'd actually need a turbo timer!

 

This safety feature can be easily overcome by soft driving until the car is completely warmed up. basically as 4cn a1r has said it is just a factory safety feature that prevents the driver from damaging the motor before operating temperature.

EGR plays a significant role in reducing combustion temperatures as well. it does have a benefit but its really negligible. you can counter this increase in heat by reducing the ratio of coolant to water mix ie, more water less coolant.

The reduction in complications is the main reason why people go non-sequential. diagnosing any problems for the average owner can be a complete nightmare. IMO the simplicity of removing these things far outweighs the benefits of keeping them. Others may disagree.

Many after market turbos do not actually support water cooling, and are usually only oil cooled. turbos that feature both oil and water are usually quite a bit more expensive and are not guaranteed to last longer than just an oil cooled one. Oil cooled turbos do not require a turbo timer but it is essential to allow the hot oil to circulate out of the turbo before shutting the car off. Proper maintenance of both types of turbos is essential

 

This has been covered numerous times in the past but since I'm bored...

ACV (Air Control Valve) controls the direction of air from the air pump - needed for emissions.

I don't know what "Split Air" is, sorry.

AWS (Accelerated Warmup System) pipe provides a bypass channel for air to enter the intake manifold during startup. This is what causes your car to rev to 3k rpm as soon as you cold start it for the purposes of reducing startup emissions by quickly heating up the pre-cat.

EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve, as explained above, is for emissions. It channels a small amount of exhaust back into the combustion process yielding slightly lower NOx emissions and lower burn temperatures.

ISC (idle speed controller) does exactly what it sounds like.. Maintains your idle.

Double Throttle prevents, as stated above, prevents you from running the engine to hard before it's warmed up.

 

My Integra GSR turbo oil only, no turbo timer

My TO4R FD oil only, no turbo timer

My T78 FD oil only, no turbo timer

No issues.

Turbo timers are like 14" Wilwood brakes on Civics.

Seriously - who runs at 20psi for long periods of time, then stops and shuts the car off? Save the hundred bucks for gas.