Front view, alternator and air pump removed. Look behind the far right idler pullet at the (dirty) plastic box with a long vacuum hose running forward to it. That's the vacuum chamber.

 

This should be sticky...

Or atleast go into a sticky and edit it with a link to this one...

It's very 'user friendly' for those wanting to look at all the vac line diagrams... Plus with the input about the PCV system, and the fuel pressure regulator solenoid...


J.

 

Thaks very much for that.
Any body make a replacment one. Mines leaking

 

Just wanted to post these here. They are very helpful for finding which lines to test for vacuum or pressure.
The first one is the whole system, the second and third are the turbo control system only.

 

Look here https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-rx-7-technical-256/frequently-asked-questions-3rd-generation-rx-7-1992-2002-faq-fd-782404/
It is the FAQ for 3rd gen vehicles

Check the for sale section, im sure some one has one that they are willing to sell. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-rx-7-1993-2002-parts-99/
If not, PM me. I have an extra one I would be willing to let go of for a small fee. Id check it before I sent it as well.

 

Is there a solenoid or valve for Aws? Couldn't find a thread on how to delete it. All I know now is I should cap the hose on stock elbow , not sure what else to do. Trying to swap w a greddy elbow, greddy doesn't have a Aws hose

 

The AWS valve itself is mounted under the Upper Intake Manifold ("UIM") near the Idle Air Control Valve. It is the one whose input air is supplied by the elbow you mentioned. Its solenoid is part of the valve itself, and is electrically driven by terminal #4P of the PCME.

If you block off the air supply, the AWS valve will still open and close under the control of the PCME, but no air will flow through it. I removed the valve (which tends to squash vacuum lines unless they are routed carefully), and blocked off the intake manifold port, in addition to capping the elbow.

It is important, if the AWS valve is not removed, to cap its input... otherwise unfiltered air will flow through it into the manifold during AWS operation (and of course the engine speed will increase).

 

Thank u westrohm for the good info. I am a lot more clear now. So I read a lot of posts where people say when they capped the inlet on the uim without removing the valve, the car stalls on cold start. I would assume same thing would happen with removing the valve and blocking w plates. Or does it have a different effect on cold start comparing the capping the uim and removing the hose only?

 

The AWS valve effect is to let extra air into the intake manifold during cold start. This is the same as pressing on the accelerator pedal. If it is capped, or if it is removed and the manifold port is blocked, no extra air will be admitted.

But the FD engine has separate fast idle controls, which if adjusted per the factory manual will open the primary throttle butterfly slightly until the adjust screw drops off its cam. There are two adjustments for that: one sets the fast idle speed, and the other sets the thermowax-controlled rod length. The rod length sets the coolant temperature at which the fast idle is cancelled.

If blocking the AWS port air causes stalling when cold, adjusting the fast idle screws should be able to bring the cold idle rpm up to compensate. (On our '94, no additional adjustment of the fast idle settings was necessary after I blocked the AWS port.)

 

Thank you for posting this!

 

Thank u for the reply! Good thing my car is a 94 so I will just go ahead and swap on the greddy elbow and cap the metal port on uim, and leave everything else (valve, fast idle...etc) untouched.

So the stalling on cold start w uim port capped only happy on 93 cars? What's the difference between different years of the Aws system then?

 

I would guess that it has nothing to do with differences between the FD model years. Instead it is probably just the fast idle adjustment itself, i.e. it was just set too low on some engines, so when the AWS was deleted, the engine stalled. Our car was bought new in '94, so I guess it was just set correctly when I did the delete of the AWS!

 

Hey guys. My fd is completly stock at the moment. I have purchaced a microtech ecu and want to tune it and put it on about 15psi. I still run sequential and stock exhaust and stock intercooler. This might be a really silly question. But were would i tap my boost controller?!
Can i tap it in as the simplifies sequential version 2 boost controller is and remove the ristrictor pills from them two vaccum hoses??
Thanks guys.
Toli

 

I think a lot of people will say the max psi u wanna put on stock twins is 14 and they r not designed to see big boost

 

what is the yellow line for in the full non seq? it was asked already but with no response

 

I'm curious too. Ive got it down to 6 lines and 5 would be so much better lol.

 

fwiw i dont have that yellow line installed and from what i can tell, my car runs fine. no difference with it not being there

 

I'm looking at doing the second diagram (simple seq) I have blanking plates for the air pump, do any vac lines need blocking or does anything no connected just get left or removed?

 

sub'd

 

just a heads up on that yellow line... i read somewhere what its for...

if you look at where it goes then youll see it goes to the diffusers for the injectors. it said it helps with atomization....

 

Thinking about going from non seq to simplified seq and have to questions.

Are all the solenoids the same? I know they serve different purposes but are they the same part?

Can someone confirm that these are the only solenoids I need
Charge control
charge relief
turbo control vacuum
turbo control pressure

Does anyone have any pics of their simplified setup? Interested n seeing how u have your solenoids secured.

 

What is that vacuum hose grayish in color labeled with "MT"?

 

"MT" means Manual Transmission, so the vacuum hose is only used for Auto trans and is capped off for manual trans!

 

New and improved version of the Eurospec RX-7 FD. Taken from the 92+ FSM for Europe. Coloring should be more correct, also i cleaned up the text and layout.

 

Very nice! Very clean and easy to read.

Dale