Its vacuum hose replacement tiime and I have decided to go the route of SIMPLIFICATION. Has anyone else done this before? If so did you just take out every vaum hose you could find and then Install per the new siplified diagram:
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...simplified.jpg

Or did you carefully replace hose 1 by 1. To me it looks like the easiest route is to just dig in and remove as many hose as I can remove the put em in according to the siplified diagram. Any done it this way. Any comments on doing it this way?

 

just to be on the safe side, i would replace each hose 1 by 1. but this route seems great too. gives you the exact locations for each vaccum line placement.

 

i got a question regarding vaccum hose replacement...

Is silicone sealant required with tie wraps, or are tie wraps just fine? Silicone sealant seems like it would give extra protection, is it worth it?

 

One by one would be a good idea IF they were going to be hooked up the same way as before.

 

the hoses dont get hooked up the same way as before?

 

They somewhat do, but you go from 60+ hoses to 25+ Its not the same setup, thus the term SIMPLIFICATION.

 

I did the simplification and liked it. I was running 15psi of boost and didnt have any hoses pop off.

You can pull that damn rack out also which makes it nice.

I just ripped everything out and ran new vac lines just like the diagram showed.

STEPHEN

 

Idunno. I think the zip ties should be fine.

 

Has anyone used silicone sealant? is it worth it???

That pic is very big! I like it. Very detailed...

1FAST7

 

THANKS SPOautos. JUST WNTED TO BE CAREFUL IN PROCEEDING

 

Look interesting. Maybe I will do it too.

 

Use the 3m weaterstrip adhesive on all hard lines that do not have a flare. If the hard line does not have a flangen, then a zip tie will do no good what so ever.

 

By doing this simplification do you loose anything performance wise? I guess I'm wondering if this doesn't change the sequental turbo system to non-sequential or something like that. I'm just curious.

I've never really run across anything like this before. I have fixed a turbo leak on my car once and I'm sure this would have made my life a little easier at the time.

- Cody

 

The simplification eliminates alot of the emissions parts of the vaccum system.

 

By eliminating some of the emissions parts isn't that going to hurt or even clog up your system/engine over time? I don't really know. I'm just trying to get a feel for the advantages and disadvantages of doing something like this.

- Cody

 

What would this diagram look like if you were running non-seq or single turbo ? Is there a daigram for removing the vacume lines that are not neede when you switch to a single turbo ?

 

I have done this several times. Be happy to help you replace the hoses. Let me know. Its actually very easy. It only takes me 5 minutes to get to and remove the upper intake manifold and get you into the solenoids/hoses area. I actually timed myself I personally prefer rubber hoses instead of the silicone, but to each their own. With the rubber hoses you can use the OEM clamps on each hose, it looks very professional. Let me know if I can help. I also have the part number for those Mazda hose clamps somewhere if you need it.

cheers

W

 

How the hell do you take off the manifold in that short of time ? damn . What is the trick . How far are you from southern Maine (portland area) ???? Thanx .

 

how do tie wraps look when the job is done? are the visible? can the oem clamps work? or are they not as good? sorry for all the questions..

1FAST7

 

Quick questions guys:

Where can I purchase the silicone hoses/lines?

I would like to work on this myself.

THanks.

Dan.

 

try www.hosetechniques.com

 

READ THIS!

The simplification eliminates the ACV (Air Control Valve), DT (Double throttle), and EGR (Exhaust Gas Recycler). If you remove your ACV, then your air pump will not be pumping air to anything so you might as well unplug it or eliminate it. This means that if you still have your main cat, then it will clog. I don't know, but maybe if you leave your ACV in place with nothing connected to it, then it will send fresh air to your cat. CAN ANYONE VERIFY THIS? I don't know how that damn thing works. Also, with your DT disable/removed, there will be nothing to keep you from boosting while your engine is still cold. So don't take your engine above 3000rpm during this time.

Here is a pic of my simplification when it was about 90% complete. Notice that I have the solenoid rack, but with the metal pipes removed, and my pressure tank has been moved under the UIM. Also, here is a perfect example of what happens when you cut your hoses too long: SPAGHETTI. Be sure to cut your hoses as short as possible and to move you parts as close together as possible.

 

I forget to mention something VERY important.

If you scroll down the page there is a "notes" section. The 1st note is very important! IF YOU DO NOT HAVE AN AFTERMARKET FUEL SYSTEM, LEAVE THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR SYSTEM INTACT. It's NOT shown in the simplification diagram, but it is shown in the full hose diagram, which I have hosted right here: http://www.rpi.edu/~skrzyj/rx7/93vachosescolor.jpg. It's solenoid (A). It's hard to see, but the rear hose goes to the bottom inside of the LIM (Lower Intake Manifold) on a diagonal nipple. The top hose goes to the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) which is on the firewall side of the secondary injector rail. After you do the simplification, your idle will rise about 800rpm, so you will need to adjust it.

G/L,
Jon

 

Ok, have to say that I am in the midts of doing the hose job and this SMIPLIFICATION method is looking very inviting...who has done this and have you noticed anything different than the regular setup?

 

No emissions, so my exhaust smells like half-burned fuel. I swear I can feel more low end power, but this is just from a butt-dyno. If you live in a state with smog tests, then I would advise against it.