LUV94RX7

iTrader: (3)

From my standpoint it will be fun to see a strong V8 in an FD actually up and running and have the cabability of running 11s and 120s mph in the 1/4 mile. We all know JIMLAB will be the ultimate, but you will get yours done first, I hope.

Ken

paw140

I'll probably have mine done before jimlab. I'll start as soon as I get out of grad school, around 2006... should be done 2007 ish.

Just kidding!

twint78

goddamnit.hooked fuel pump directly to the relay.still not getting fuel.i have fuel pump hooked to relay hooked to battery power.still not doing anything.what the hell?

jimlab

Damn, remind me not to ask you for any electrical advice...

You should have invested in a multimeter before starting this project. Knowing how to trace electrical problems to their source is half the battle, but having a multimeter is the other half. Throw your test light in the garbage can and get a multimeter with continuity testing ability. It makes it a lot easier to find out if current is able to get from "here" to "there".

First test the leads to your relay. If it's not receiving 12V+ to one of the trigger terminals, then trace that back to the source. You had a custom harness made, I believe. It should have had a fuel pump relay output, and it's probably a ground trigger. If you hooked it up to one trigger terminal of your relay and hooked the other to ground, you're not going to get very far.

If you have power to the relay and you can hear it click, then your relay is fine. If it doesn't make a very noticeable click when powered, replace the relay.

If your relay is good then make sure that power is present at the relay and flowing through it to the N/O (normally open) terminal, and that it's making it back to the fuel pump wiring in the hatch. If you have 12V+ at the positive wire for the fuel pump and it's not running, then you have a dead pump. Or a bad ground.

Electrical troubleshooting is a process of elimination, starting at the source and working your way to the component affected. Once you've got the process down, troubleshooting problems with the electrical system is not that difficult.

p.s. BUY A MULTIMETER! And learn to use it correctly.

twint78

aight i get a very noticeable clicking relays are fine.

i still have the ground coming out of the fuel pump going into the original harness.

the relays have 4 wires at bottom.2 are prewired into the harness. one is wired to power the other is wired to fuel pump.

i will be checking for spark.

u think i should cut the ground at the wiring harness and just ground it to the car's chassis.

the engine turns over strong.

i rechecked the fuel and this time i had alot of fuel pressure.so the pump is working correct?

line in goes to odd cylinder bank side.line out goes to even bank side coming from fp regulator.

like i said i will now check for spark.

u think it might be my battery does not have enuff juice?

well testing rolls along

twint78

p.s. fuel pump is new.nothing is clogged.

Felix Wankel

My friend that the same problem with his LT1/6 speed swap into a 69 Z/28. He bought it from a junkyard, and all of the injectors were clogged from sitting. He had them cleaned and it started up.

I thought that it was funny that (I assume) every one of them was clogged.

twint78

hmm how long did they sit.mine have sat for 6mths now.i guess ill get them flushed.

twint78

where did he have them cleaned at?

cdk 4219

It probably will run in the 100 to 103 MPH range with the LT1. I am not trying to put it down, but the LT1 probably wont like the 4.10 rear gears, because it has a very flat torque curve, and runs out of steam at a relatively low RPM. Putting 4.10 gears in an LT1 Fbody with a stock top end doesnt improve either trap speed or ET. The automatic will be an advantage over the 6 speed, because it is very hard to shift that fast with a 410 gear. Now if the man saves his money for the 3.42 gears Jim is contracting for then he will definately be in better shape.

R Xplicit

4.10 will not be that bad in the car, but don't underestimate that motor in the disguise of an rx7 body. i think that the traps *should* be higher that the 100-103 area. 3.73 will better suit that automatic than the 4.10. there will be a noticable difference in those. but for now, that 4.10 will be fine.....

twint78

aight my update.

i pulled injectors.fuel dumps out of rail so there is fuel being pumped.

and there is fuel pressure.so i have a working fuel pump.this i now know.

but i pulled injectors to get them cleaned.i think they are clogged bad for sitting for six months not having anything ran through them,plus they have 80k miles on them.

Felix Wankel

6 months sounds about right.

I believe he took his to a diesel shop and had them cleaned.

cdk 4219

I have a TII with an LS1 T56 that puts out 315 to the wheels and 355 ft lbs with the stock engine. A Stock LT1 with an auto trans will give you around 255 to the wheels. The problem with the combo is that an LT1 wont breathe very well above 5300 rpm in its stock form, and at that point with a light car 4.10 are a liability. One of the other problems with a higher trap speed is that unless you make that LT1 breathe a bit better you cant go much more than 103 at that RPM unless you are in overdrive, which I am not sure the 4l60E will let you do at WOT. The LT1 is a good torque maker at low to mid range and the 4.10s always make me hit the rev limiter and the LS1 is set at 6250 and it breathes all the way up there. I hit the rev limiter at 112 mph at 6250 in 4th gear about 60 ft before the end of the track, but it slows the car down if I shift to 5th. You are right that the gears will be good for now, but the car will be faster with the 3.42 gears, no ifs ands or buts about it

twint78

ALL I CAN SAY IS

IT'S ALIVE.OH GOD IT'S ALIVE.

MY WIRING WAS ALL CORRECT.I KNEW IT WAS.THATS WHY I WAS STRESSED.ENDED UP BEING CLOGGED INJECTORS.THREW SOME ETHER IN AND FIRED RIGHT UP.

HOPE TO BE ON ROAD IN A BIT.HHAHAHHAHHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHH.

LONG LIVE THE V8 3RD GEN.

paw140

So are your injectors working now? Or did you just fire it up with ether? Do you have the driveshaft and everything else hooked up? You need to post some pics! If you don't want to post them, email me some at pawusm@yahoo.com.

LT1-7

It's about time you got that thing up

20B Junkie

Wow, thats really sweet. Has the weight of the car changed much? What about handling....worse/same/better? Any understeer? How much power you pushing?

twint78

wont know true effects till road worthy.

power to weight ratio increased

330hp from the start i presume wont know til dyno.

1 month and a half

jimlab

I'm still waiting for the seemingly inevitable electrical fire...

Node

iTrader: (1)

non-rotaries in RX-7's are the work of the Devil! Don't do it!
Jimlab has gone to the dark side

jimlab

A long, long time ago. Not even YZF-R1 could save my soul now.

twint78

JIM JIM JIM AN ELECTRICAL FIRE.COME ON GIVE ME MORE CREDIT THAN THAT.

ALL WIRE GAUGES ARE CORRECT GAUGE.EVERYTHING IS FUSED AND RELAYED CORRECTLY.EVERYTHING IS GROUNDED.AND EVERYTHING IS INSULATED.

I HOPE UR BUSTIN MY *****.

dubulup

Interesting thread, cool! Glad you got her fired up.

jimlab

More or less.