eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

Well so I wanted to take a break from pulling my engine and decided to have a little fun, played GT4 for a few minutes then got sick of it. So I decided to make a mock up of the V-mount setup I am going to make in the next few weeks. Tomorrow I am going to polish out the dullness and bring some nice bling to it, then if time permits take her out for a spin and see how she does.

Its rough placement but I just could resist the temptation. Once I get some hard facts on it I will update...

neit_jnf

iTrader: (17)

looks like it has potential, make sure it doesn't hit the hood...

DGblk93

Hey eyecandy - looks like its gonna be one of 'those' Friday nights.

I am so torn on what to do next. I don't have the patience or the machine shop necessary to fabricate a v-mount, yet the whole setup from R.E. will run me about 3K. My dilemma is I know it is overkill for me because I don't track the car and I only drive it on weekends (on nice days). But I absolutely love the way the setup looks and I know it the best design for an aftermarket IC. I'm also telling myself 'you should replace that stock radiator'...

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

neit_jnf, FWIW if you place the front fuse box on its side on the front support that holds the bolts to the bumper, that adds about another 3" and it clears fine, the intercooler will be placed slightly below that. But I am running the setup in such away to make the ic and rad alittle more vertical to improve the air flow through both of them.

DGblk93, I guess you must really decide what is more important the $$ or the looks. For me, I am not going to make loads of power, seriously I know this sounds lame but it will be close to stock with prolly a max of 300rwhp. But of the choices in intercoolers I have I could run up to 500-600 hp. I will not be doing to much tracking, but I will be drifiting my car and with the slower speeds and higher reving of the engine I need maximum air flow to both. The main reason what sways me from the V-mount is the rad placement, I am just worried about an "accident" and bashing the bottom end of the rad in respect to the location of it and the fact their is only a plastic bumper protecting...

So,I have had thoughts of a my FMIC setup again, but the cost will not justify it (about the same as the v-mount), and the possiblity of still overheating. Just like the v-mount it would be an all custom setup as well. If time permits I am decide to run a mock up of that as well.

neit_jnf

iTrader: (17)

are you keeping your AC and PS? If yes, how are you going to deal with the lines?

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

If your goal is 300rwhp just go ASP medium. You'll save $$, time and end up having something that doesn't screw up the rest of the car.

The V mounts I've seen put the lower rad hose very close to the bottom of the car.

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

AC is gone, I got two 50 air (for those of you that do not know, thats two windowsa at 50mph). The powering is going to stay, I am still working on seeing how to reform the stock lines (to save a few bucks) but most likly I willreplace it with a small fuel cooler.

turbojeff, I understand what you are saying, but I honestly I do not see how you figure saving money.

ASP medium $1495, Fluidyne $450, and greddy elbow $115
Total: $2060

How do you figure it will screw up the rest of the car?

saxyman990

The regular size rotary extreme V-mount (not the monster) starts at 2350. Plus you still have to buy the greddy elbow (125 on chucks site), a mini battery kit (~250), and probably chucks cold-air intake (~450). Altogether that's about 3150, which is a sizeable difference in price.

You can also usually find used ASP intercoolers for much cheaper than that if you look around. I've also seen some better prices on Fluidyne's (I got mine brand new for about 350).

-Rob

DGblk93

^ all true. But Chuck's setup works with other intakes - says on his site.

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

LOL, I am not purchasing REs kit. I am making my own, but just take his kit for example if you really want to get into it (taking all prices from new since my kit would be all new, gotta be fair).

SMIC:
ASP Medium $1495
ASP IC pipe $135
Elbow $125
Intake $330 (avg)
Rad $450
Rad hoses $250

Total: $2785

REs V-mount kit (new rad hoses, IC hoses, IC, rad, etc) $2350
Elbow $125
Intake $330 (avg)
Battery Kit $250 (can do own for cheaper)
IC air not getting crammed through a 2x16" slot $PRICELESS

Total: $3055

Difference: $270

Depending on the IC and rad I choose, my setup should be in the $2050-2350 mark (including battery, intake etc).

Seriously though I do not want to turn this into a war amongest pricing and me are not comparing apples to apples here, but one of the main factors against SMICs is the fact of the air cramming through such a small opening. Taking the stock 1.5x10.25" = 15.375sqin means you should have NO larger than a 61.5sqin SMIC face.

Kevin T. Wyum

The IC pipe comes with the kit and what are the $250 radiator hoses in there for? Just curious.

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

According to the RX7 store the ic pipe I included was the replacemet crossover pipe (from y-pipe to IC, or else you need to mod it) is $135, the $250 rad hoses is the price for replacement Samco hoses, since the RE kit inludes new rad hoses, just trying to keep everything level.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Samco hoses are a waste of $$. The stock hoses are good quality, $150 will buy all 13 coolant hoses.

Kevin T. Wyum

The $135 is only when it's being purchased alone. It comes as a part of the kit otherwise, replacing the old version. I still don't follow the point to radiator hoses being in there. The radiator hoses in my car are actually 12 years old now and just fine. So the difference would be $655.

You should probably search for a thread from earlier this week about going from small cross section to large just prior to a heat exchanger and what happens. Air is compressible.

Kevin T. Wyum

rotorbrain

doesnt that speed up the air kevin??? w/o searching. . . i believe (from my own reasoning) that this is what happens.

paul

Kevin T. Wyum

Other way around, slows it down once it enters the larger volume area allowing for more contact time with the heat exchanger and better transfer rates. It wouldn't hurt to have a little more height in the opening but the performance difference is going to be very small and not worth asking people to change the position of the radiator to do it as opposed to simply setting the IC in place etc. This is all far less straight forward than it appears some people think.

rotorbrain

i often wish i hadve gone with your smic instead of my custom fmic. . . geh. . . oh well, live and learn. hahaha, im stuck with it now!!!

paul

TT_Rex_7

What size/brand/style intercooler core do you plan on using?

-Alex

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

Let me see if I can explain this better for ya then. The RE V-mount comes with new Samco Rad hoses. What I am trying to do is take everything the RE kit comes and take all the same items for using a SMIC.

Have you ever read Corky Bells book? Page 57 fig.5-17 "Minimum duct inlet area should not drop below one quarter of the core area."

I have still not decided on the intercooler size or brand yet, I hope to this week.

Kevin T. Wyum

You know that 2" x 16" is 1/4 the size of the core right?

spekdah

I did a very similar set up with my stock RAD and a custom IC, worked pretty well but I went back to FMIC , i preferred FMIC anywways.