Urgent questions for those who have done engine replacements before
12-21-02, 07:06 PM
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Urgent questions for those who have done engine replacements before
Hi all,
I just finished replacing my engine with a Mazda reman. There are some minor issues still unresolved, I was wondering if any experts can shed some lights.
1. First off, the main harness was replaced at the same time. There is a black connector on the ecu side that was not on the original harness. Is this for Cali emission stuff?
2. There are 3 connectors on the engine side not connected. One is for the air pump (removed, so this is o.k). One is for the Cali EGR valve (also not connected for me, I think). And for the life of me I cannot find what the third connector goes to (there doesn't seem to be any references in the shop manual). Any ideas?
3. After everything started up, the cooland level warning light came on (the coolant level is o.k., the temperature is also fine) and wouldn't go off. The sensor continuity tested ok, what could it be?
4. The brake light also stayed on. Is there a connector that brings the brake switch sig into the panel that was on one of the harnesses that I may have forgotten to reconnect? If so, where would that connector be?
5. The engine idleing is very rough, low and hunts around (between 500 to < 200 rpm). I have checked the map sensor. I will reset the ecu in the morning. What else could it be?
If there is any info you can provide, it would be greatly appreciated, TIA.
I just finished replacing my engine with a Mazda reman. There are some minor issues still unresolved, I was wondering if any experts can shed some lights.
1. First off, the main harness was replaced at the same time. There is a black connector on the ecu side that was not on the original harness. Is this for Cali emission stuff?
2. There are 3 connectors on the engine side not connected. One is for the air pump (removed, so this is o.k). One is for the Cali EGR valve (also not connected for me, I think). And for the life of me I cannot find what the third connector goes to (there doesn't seem to be any references in the shop manual). Any ideas?
3. After everything started up, the cooland level warning light came on (the coolant level is o.k., the temperature is also fine) and wouldn't go off. The sensor continuity tested ok, what could it be?
4. The brake light also stayed on. Is there a connector that brings the brake switch sig into the panel that was on one of the harnesses that I may have forgotten to reconnect? If so, where would that connector be?
5. The engine idleing is very rough, low and hunts around (between 500 to < 200 rpm). I have checked the map sensor. I will reset the ecu in the morning. What else could it be?
If there is any info you can provide, it would be greatly appreciated, TIA.
12-21-02, 07:45 PM
#3
On the extra black connector on the engine harness.
I've recently bought an new engine harness and saw this connector as well. The best that I can figure, it goes to the little "black box" that is attached to the factory ECU. I've been working only on 93's for a few years, and recently got some 94s. From the 2 94s I've worked on the engine harness has this connector on it, on the 93s that connector is on the body harness instead of the engine harness.
Need a pic for the connector question.
Add coolant light/buzzer. Check down by the AC pump, there is a single black connector that probably isn't plugged it. This is a common thing, add coolant has two connections, one at the sensor and the other one down by the ac pump.
Good luck!
Jeff
I've recently bought an new engine harness and saw this connector as well. The best that I can figure, it goes to the little "black box" that is attached to the factory ECU. I've been working only on 93's for a few years, and recently got some 94s. From the 2 94s I've worked on the engine harness has this connector on it, on the 93s that connector is on the body harness instead of the engine harness.
Need a pic for the connector question.
Add coolant light/buzzer. Check down by the AC pump, there is a single black connector that probably isn't plugged it. This is a common thing, add coolant has two connections, one at the sensor and the other one down by the ac pump.
Good luck!
Jeff
12-21-02, 08:21 PM
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Nah, the black connector has 8 pins I think.
Does anyone else know where this second connector for the coolant light is at exactly? I looked down by the AC, but no luck.
Does anyone else know where this second connector for the coolant light is at exactly? I looked down by the AC, but no luck.
12-21-02, 08:22 PM
#7
In reference of the rough idling, did u check to see if the car is getting right amount of fuel pressure? I think is suppose to be around 34-36 psi, Also when u turn on the a.c does the car rpm drop and then shut off? if so u might want to check your injectors to see how well they are flowing? Also u brake light my be coming from a bad relay.
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12-21-02, 09:10 PM
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Found the connector for the coolant level sensor, thanks turbojeff.
I will try to get a fuel pressure check tomorrow. The injectors are fairly new (less than 2 years old) worked fine before putting them into the new engine.
What could be the cause of low fuel pressure besides a bad fuel pump?
I will try to get a fuel pressure check tomorrow. The injectors are fairly new (less than 2 years old) worked fine before putting them into the new engine.
What could be the cause of low fuel pressure besides a bad fuel pump?
12-21-02, 09:51 PM
#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
This may sound stupid, but here it goes.
Would a vacuum leak cause rough idle like the one I'm describing? I am getting barely 11in of vacuum at the rough idle. When I step on the gas and get pass ~1500rpms things seem to smooth out some. When I actuate the throttle, I can hear a sucking sound. So what do you think??
Would a vacuum leak cause rough idle like the one I'm describing? I am getting barely 11in of vacuum at the rough idle. When I step on the gas and get pass ~1500rpms things seem to smooth out some. When I actuate the throttle, I can hear a sucking sound. So what do you think??
12-22-02, 08:07 PM
#11
Make sure the idle air-bleed screw is turned out far enough. You will get low vac. readings at that low of an RPM.
Also, make sure that your plug wires are right, and that your ignition harness that is connected to the coils is not on backwards. Pull each plug and verify spark, remove he fuel-pump fuse first. Rule the spark out, then you're left with fuel.
Sometimes you can foul the plugs on the first run. Check them and see if they're wet. If they are squirt some carb cleaner on the plug and blow it off good.
These are a couple of things I've had happen and I've installed about ten or so engines throughout my RX7 sickness.
Also, make sure that your plug wires are right, and that your ignition harness that is connected to the coils is not on backwards. Pull each plug and verify spark, remove he fuel-pump fuse first. Rule the spark out, then you're left with fuel.
Sometimes you can foul the plugs on the first run. Check them and see if they're wet. If they are squirt some carb cleaner on the plug and blow it off good.
These are a couple of things I've had happen and I've installed about ten or so engines throughout my RX7 sickness.
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