First off this might be a lengthy post and I apologize for that

Anyways, I'm thinking of buying a FD. I Use to own a 87 N/A FC, which was a complete piece of **** mind you, but I sold it since I'm joining the Army soon. I don't know much about the FD but I know a decent amount about the FC.

-What are some essential/good modifications? I know a giant *** intercooler, and any other way to reduce temperature is a start.

-I heard it's a "sequential" twin turbo, I don't understand what the sequential means in respect to the turbo set up and people I know have been telling me it has to do with spool times or something (different answers every time) is it worth it? Is a single/twin set up better?

-In the FC my original plan was to swap my 87 13B motor for a 89'-91' 13B turbo (wanting a turbo engine and reading how the later year engine was better http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/ZVK/zvk.html)
Whats the difference's (if any) between the 92-95 and 99-02 engines? Is it possible to get a hold of a 99-02 engine and do a swap?

-In respect to SCCA rules on auto x (which I should eventually be doing with this car until I can move up to something more "professional") what mods are considered "illegal" by there standards? I was considering getting acrylic glass as modification but I heard thats not allowed. Are carbon fiber drive shafts allowed?

-Lastly there is way too much stuff Fujita Engineering (FEED) and RE-Amemiya make for the FD. How the hell do I go about buying a functional front and rear diffuser kit (Rear diffuser should accommodate a dual exhaust set up) and other such parts from a Japanese company? I can't speak much Japanese and I won't be able to get a hold of my friend who's fluent for a while.


Tl;DR: FC to FD guy, I need help

Thanks for any help, I really appreciate it!

 

the sequential part i think i can describe for yah...if im incorrect someone please correct me.

Ok i think the FD turbo works is that there are two turbos one for low end and the other for top end. The second turbo gets spooled up by the first turbo when there is a enough back pressure built up and at a certain Rpm. Also I think once the second one is working....they both are working all the time rather than one shutting off after the other starts working and vice versa.

 

Take a look in the FAQ thread at the top of this section. There area several tips for getting started with this car.

There are no differences in the core engine itself. The difference is in the components around the engine and the ECU.

You need to look at the SCCA rules for the class you want to run in and see what is allowed. If you start doing changes like that, you'll get put into a class that you won't be remotely competitive unless you start spending some big bucks. As for a a CF drive shaft, the stock drive shaft is aluminum and very light. At most, you'll save maybe 2-3lbs if that. It's not a worth while mod which is why hardly any FD owners ever do it.

The FD fuel tank is in the rear on the drivers side. Typically any car you see with a true dual exhaust will be running a fuel cell. There are many companies you can order parts from which can get Japanese parts directly. Start with www.fdnewbieimports.com . Just make an inquiry to them as to what you are looking for and they will get you pricing information. Be prepared to wait as sometimes orders from Japan can take a while. I waited about 8-9 months for headlights.

 

In a nutshell, the sequential system was MAZDA's way of increasing torque and reducing boost lag to make the car more street friendly. There's a ton of information in the stickys at the top of this section to get you started.
There is no significant difference in engines between the years. IMO your getting way ahead of yourself talking about engine swaps, CF driveshafts and diffusers.
As for autox, allowed m.odifications depend on what class you want to run...SS; ASP etc. SOLO Rule book is available for on-line download.

 

Yeah I don't even own the car yet lol so I might be getting a little a head of my self. Thankfully money won't be too much of a problem (I have a little under $40,000 to work with, but because of me joining the Army soon, I won't be buying a car I can't use immediately)

I would have just gone and picked up another FC, this time a 89-91 T2 seeing as how those cars tend to be easier to deal with, and I know a lot more about them. As I got more and more into rotary's and cars in general it just seemed that if you have the money to spend and time, why not do the logical thing and buy the 'updated' version?

Also I figured out the difference between Sequential Twins and regular twins. I don't know if I'd keep the sequential set up, it just seems like a pain in the ***.

 

sequential is only a pain if you have problems with it... otherwise its great -- instant response and .8 bar of boost at 2k rpm is nice.