rowdog_14

So I just purchased a 100% factory RX7 over the weekend, even down to the original title and leather owner book with all contents (manual, warranty, salesman business cards, etc.) and I would like to upgrade but just a few bolt-ons and reliability upgrades. Here is the list I have come up with.


1. Down Pipe
2. Cat-Back
3. Mid-Pipe
4. AST Tank
5. Rear window spoiler
6. Duck Tail spoiler
7. Mazda RX-7 JP USA Vizage Body Kit - 7PC or just do a R1 front lip
8. Gauges(Boost, Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, AFR(last gauge since I am not modified)
9. Wheels
10. Y Pipe
11. Modify Stock Airbox


I would like to get these but I do not think it is needed if all I am doing is mainly exhaust

1. Apexi Power FC
2. Turbo Timer(Is this even needed if not modified heavily?)


I really wanted a RX7 that was factory that I could upgrade but man having this 100% one makes me not want to do too much to it if anything at all . Should I just stick to reliability modes and search for a rx7 that I can really upgrade in the future? I know it is my car I can do what I want but seriously just want some feedback.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

do nothing to it. 100% factory condition cars are becoming EXTREMELY rare and sought after. If you MUST do something to the car then KEEP ALL THE FACTORY PARTS YOU PULL OFF!!! this will allow you to mod it and also somewhat preserve the value. looking at your list, 1 ,4 and 10 would be good along with the power fc and an aluminum radiator. boost, water temp and AFR are the default 3 gauges for things to monitor. i would recommend a multi display so you dont have to put 3 pods or something somewhere on your dash. a turbo timer is never required. delete that term from your life and never speak it again.

if you really wanted to keep with the stock theme then getting an oem jdm downpipe would be a factory upgrade over the stock usdm. there are a good number of things you can do "behind the scenes" of a stock car to improve on the factory shortcomings and also improve on performance and reliability. it can be a rabbit hole depending on how dedicated you are and how far you want to take it.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Bro, no. Slow down. Read/research a lot before you do anything. Ever noticed that stock cars keep running fine and modded ones break a lot? It's easy to screw up Fd's.

Seriously, stock cars work mostly fine. Don't let ppl bullshit you. Your first 3 points are open exhaust. That's the fastest path to a rebuild.

You probably need to replace all the fluids, belts, brake pads, clutch, and some bushings just to have a nice stock car. When you're ready to upgrade, here are some that are hard to argue with even for a collector.


1. Radiator
2. Oil Coolers
3. Stainless brake/clutch lines
4. New OEM AST
5. I'm forgetting something


If you mod first and without research you'll sell your car for (much) less than you bought it, and soon.


PS turbo timers are worthless

Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

1. Down Pipe - get a HKS or similar, ceramic coat and mount it
2. Cat-Back - If you get one with stock ish restrictions (Racing beat maybe?)
3. Mid-Pipe - Nope nope nope
4. AST Tank - Must have, either new OEM or new metal
5. Rear window spoiler - Looks better without
6. Duck Tail spoiler - Looks good on pictures, not in real life. go 99-spec
7. Mazda RX-7 JP USA Vizage Body Kit - 7PC or just do a R1 front lip - Best way to completly ruin your car (and its value).
8. Gauges(Boost, Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, AFR(last gauge since I am not modified) - As long as you dont cut the interior go ahead
9. Wheels
10. Y Pipe - Good mod
11. Modify Stock Airbox - cheap bastard mod?


If you want a car to mod and have fun with, sell yours and buy a modded one (cehaper). If you want to keep it OEM-ish, keep yours.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

* DP is fine if it doesn't already have one. The pre-cat should come off. I agree with Zepticon, have it heat-coated before installation and don't buy one off Ebay. Search and read for ones with a good track record.
*Midpipe, awesome mod if you want to make your car loud, make it stink and risk blowing the engine (see boost creep).
*AST
*The only gauges you need are boost and temp (either oil or coolant, but coolant is typically easiest to install). All the others just scream boy-racer on a stock ECU.
*efini 'Y' pipe is fine, but with a good silicone coupler instead of the stock rubber version, this could probably be delayed if money is a consideration.
*Modified stock airbox is a good choice since presumably you're keeping it close to stock and keeping the stock IC.


*PFC, I recommend buying a new one with the newer OLED commander.
*Turbo Timer, worthless mod on the street driven FD since the turbos are water-cooled. Save your money.

Take a few evenings and ready thru all the sticky threads in the FAQ at the top of this section. You'll make more informed decisions, save some headache and money and not screw up your car.

Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

I was (and stil is) in a very similar situation. Im the 2nd owner of my FD, its a EU-spec (1152 made in total) and its also a 94/95 (around 250 made) so its pretty rare. So i am very conservative as to what i do to it, to keep it clean.

Have a look at my thread if you want some tips:
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...owlog-1060103/

rowdog_14

Thanks guys for all the feedback.

I know I have a unique car within a unique group so trying to keep things to only sensible, reliability upgrades and needed. With all my vehicles I keep all OEM stuff just in case I want to return to stock.

Based on the feedback here and what I am wanting to do with the car, the mid-pipe and turbo timer is not need. So I will take that off my list and add to my big binder of research notes that I have gotten

Also just FYI to everyone. I just did not hop off the train and get an FD because I liked it. I first saw one when I was in Autobody school in 2007 and wanted one then. I did not entertain it because I had other priorities. Well in 2015 I started searching the web and doing research on the car based on modding it to a certain degree. I printed out everything and saved it in a RX7 folder lol. In 2015 I also started looking but not actually looking to buy. Last week I put out a feeler to buy and found this jewel one state away. Thanks again and hope I can keep this car and pass it down to my 5 or 7 year old.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Lots of good points made here. Few things I'd like to add in -

I always tell people when they get a car to look at what the car is telling you and what it needs FIRST, then go from there. I've seen tons of cars with all kinds of crazy mods and stuff on it but with a nasty engine bay, dry-rotted Pep Boys tires, squealing brakes, etc.

One of the first and most important things for any car is tires. If you have crap tires, not only will you not be able to take advantage of more power or suspension upgrades, but bad tires can easily be a contributing factor in an accident of some kind. Don't want to do an emergency maneuver and end up in a ditch on the side of the road.

So, take time, drive the car and see what it needs. If the maintenance history is unknown you may want to do a full maintenance - spark plugs, oil and filter, coolant, diff and trans oil, fuel filter, wiper blades, air filter.

As far as your list, an HKS downpipes that's ceramic coated is an awesome way to go there. The HKS fits like a glove and is incredibly well made. You may even want to find a rusty one used for cheap then send it off for coating, when it comes back it will be like new. First downpipe I had I got for $50 because it was old and rusty, after ceramic coating it was better than new. I recommend Jet-Hot 2000 coating, it is damn near indestructible and reduces underwood heat by a huge amount. The downpipe is also a mod that you can do that won't affect the value or quality of the car at all.

If the paint is a little tired looking you may want to find a professional detailer in your area. It's amazing what a good detailer can do with a buffer, I've seen cars go from so-so to jaw dropping.

If you'd like further advice on modding the car for power, Banzai Racing has an excellent thread where they do each mod step by step and show the power gains. One of the biggies though is that the car is being professionally tuned in the process, without that you're looking at a hand grenade.

On gauges, the less the better. You don't really need a ton of gauges on the car, personally I'm looking to downsize mine. Boost gauge and water temp is really the only things I would recommend.

At the end of the day, it's your car, but just treat her right and she'll do right for you.

Dale

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Here you go. We actually did not tune the car until close to the end.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...added-1104322/

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

One point to make that you will see in Banzai's thread is the car didn't run right to start with, it had a bad lower intake manifold gasket. I've driven plenty of RX-7's that people thought they were fast, I wondered why they would shift to the next gear at 4500 RPM. The car wasn't running right and they didn't know, they had no point of reference.

So, another big mod to make is actually having the car run properly - most likely your car is, but there you go.

Dale

THE TECH

iTrader: (16)

Don't forget that at the end of the day that it's your car. Build it the way you want to regardless of any advice or criticism you get.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

How many miles on it?

rowdog_14

Nice thread and two years go I put down Banzai racing



Exactly


Yep


102k, currently has high 90's on the compression. So trying to see how long I can make it without a rebuild

mdp

Congratulations on you new purchase! It is exciting getting such a special car, and I understand all the cool things you would like to do to it to make it unique. However, don't forget it's a 24 year old car so...
With that extra $2-3k you've set aside for modifications here are some things you should do over the next year of ownership before even thinking about modding the car....

1. Replace all vacuum lines (I used Viton but I’m ****-retentive)
2. Replace all suspension bushings (I used Mazda Comp for the rubber ones, see reason #1)
3. Put on a good set of high performance tires, the crappy discount tire brand tires on the car really suck.
4. Replace all the rubber coolant and fuel hoses in the engine compartment.
5. Replace the fuel filters and air filter,
6. Change the engine oil and filter
7. Change the transmission oil to synthetic
8. Change the differential oil to synthetic
9. Linearize the stock coolant temperature gauge or get an aftermarket one.
10. Install a boost gauge
11. Replace the spark plugs and wires, and re-check the engine compression
12. Replace the shock absorbers with a good quality non-adjustable ones like the Bilstein B6s wich are used on the RS, RZ, and Spirit R. No need to go hog wild with Ohlins at this point.
13. Clean the engine bay.
14. Sand and paint the rusted support brace under the battery tray
15. Clean the wheel wells out, they're filled with dirt grease cobwebs etc. Treat any rusty areas with rust preventative paint, and then coat the fender liners with a black rubber trim dye.
16. Replace all the rusted bolts you can find with stainless steel ones. ( makes working on the car easier down the road)
17. Clean the engine sub-frame and paint the rusty spots with rust preventative paint.
18. Clean the rear suspension sub-frame and paint the rusty spots with rust preventative paint.
19. Take out all the heat shields in the engine compartment, remove the rust and paint with high temperature heat reflective paint. Replace any shields that have rusted through
20. Replace the pre-cat with a down pipe.
21. Replace the AST with an aftermarket aluminum one.
22. Replace the power steering fluid.
23. Flush the coolant system and replace the stock plastic radiator with a direct drop-in all aluminum replacement radiator.
24. Have the car professionally detailed, a complete make over full paint treatment and correction.
25. Check all the speakers they probably all need replacing.
26. Check the brakes, if they are ok flush out the old fluid and replace with a good high temperature fluid. If they are not ok do a complete brake job including overhauling the calipers if necessary. Replace the brake hoses.
27 remove the corrosion from the aluminum power steering cooler pipe and repaint.
28. Check for oil pan leaks and reseal if it is leaking.
29 Check the engine mounts for damage and replace if necessary ( i like Mazda Comps, see reason #1 )
30. Repair or replace any torn cracked rubber boots on the car, they are there for a reason ( to keep water and dirt out!)
31 Once all that is done, take a 2-3 day high performance driving class like BMWs Performance Driving School. You can not have more fun sitting down and you will learn how to trash, err I mean, drive someone else's car at the limit. Then take you newly restored beauty to a well run driving event with instructors, corner workers, ambulance workers, track boss, and tow trucks. Learn to drive your RX-7 at speed with an instructor. My favorite one is VARA University but there are others. Trust me after your restoration there is nothing better for your ego than to have a owner of a 1956 Le Mans D Type Jaguar come up to you and tell you your car is one of his favorite cars of all time, but I digress. Once again you will never have more fun on the track with your own car without putting it in peril of other drivers with fragile egos.

I'm sure other folks can think of additional things you can do to your car but in your first year of ownership work on the basics of getting the car back to like new condition and getting you the skills to drive it. This gives you time with the car to learn its strengths and weaknesses. At the end of the year you'll probably be $4,000 poorer but, you'll have a good 5 year modification plan in mind, or maybe, just maybe, you'll decide to drive and enjoy one of the best cars of the 90s, as it came from the showroom. As for me, I'm saving up for that D-Type.

D-Type Video

rowdog_14

Thanks for all the feedback guys but vehicles are vehicles no matter rotory or pistons. The same I do with my other vehicles, toys I am putting that same effort to the RX7. I work on everything I have unless I do not have or I can not rent the tool needed.

Currently my fleet is

09 Nissan Altima S
15 Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude
04 Dodge Ram Rumble Bee Edition "Yellow"(this is my performance truck pushing about 450hp now to the crank, looking to get about 500hp out of it with factory block internals and factory trans )
03 Suzuki TL1000R
02 Honda VTX 1800C
02 Honda XR 80 (got for my oldest son)
98 Suzuki Lt80 (got both my sons)

85 Porsche 928(actually my dads...Started restoring but dad took it back he could not stand it not at his house lol )
79 Corvette L48(dads too...Started restoring almost done but dad took it back too and all I had left was the interior it has sat outside and now is back in the condition it was back in 2007 when I started restoring it )

Other engine related items(RC planes/Helis)
P-40 50cc plane
P-47 50cc plane
P-51 30cc(1.50) plane
2 Nitro Helis
4 other Nitro planes ranging from .46-1.50 size

So as you see I LOVE engine related items and I lay my hands on everything . The only vehicle I do not touch is my 2015 Jeep because it is under warranty but believe in the next 6 years my hands will be touching that one too lol. I laid that all out to say that with majority of items related to any engine or vehicles, there are common quality check you do on all used items or at least any car person should do and I do checks on everything when I buy something and take it home. Rotors are a new world for me as I am sure it was for all of you but maintenance checks are not. Everything I have I can go out to the garage and start up and ride to Cali and back and no oil leaks in the driveway. Hopefully after I am doing with the checks on the RX7 it will be another car I can take to cali and back and not worry about a thing.

Again thanks everyone for the feedback and I hope to learn more about proper upgrades to keep the Rotory going for more years on end. This thread online along with the Banzi Racing thread had me update my notes I have made over the years.

I passed emission yesterday and got my tag today!!! So I am excited and looking forward to the rest of the health checks on the car.

rowdog_14

Oh and I am sure you all have seen the OS rotory engine. Very nice RC engine that screams!!!!!!!!!!!

rowdog_14

Oh and here is the car if some did not catch the intro I posted.

jj_calvin

iTrader: (3)

Wow! That car is MINT! How much did it cost? I would want to think twice before I began messing with anything that clean, especially factoring in how much it cost.

The items in your upgrade list look like the cookie cutter template items that turn up when you do a search for rx7 upgrade path or mod list. Great information and suggestions if you want to push your car beyond factory.

As always, it's your ride, and you need have a passion for what you want to do with it. Dale's advice seems spot on here. See how your car is behaving and it will let you know what you need to do. There is so much you can refresh by just replacing old parts with new OEM parts (Ray Crowe is your best friend here)! Personally I like the '99 spec look the best, but again, if you want to hold the value for the car, less is more.

DP with boost gauge and water temp gauge are non-intrusive mods that should not hurt the car value, and will only benefit the reliability. Just don't drill/cut/modify any of the interior panels etc.

cib24

Man, I wouldn't touch it much. I would take something akin to my approach, i.e. let the exhaust breathe a bit better (3" downpipe, 3" high flow cat, 3" cat-back), add a HKS twin power (and make sure your ignition system is up to scratch), add a PFC, get a tune and set the boost to maybe 11-12 PSI, get a boost, oil temp and water temp gauge, upgrade the brake pads (unless you are tracking then get bigger discs, lines, etc.), make sure the rest of your suspension is good (pillowballs, shocks) and that's about it. Maybe upgrade the radiator to a Koyo stock location unit if you live in a hot climate.

Leave the stock intercooler for a street car (just plug the hole that allows the intake to suck air from the intercooler duct), make sure the sequential system is working and you will have a reliable c.300-320hp street car that can run in the 12's if you put sticky tires on the back and learn to launch it. And you will reduce the risk of engine problems since you aren't pushing big power and you will keep that FD nice and clean which will keep its value.

rowdog_14

17K, that is as you see it with also all new tires, interior detail, paint refresh, new fuel pump, new starter, new plugs, new radio since the factory went out.


Nope keeping it 95% stock. I just ordered the gauges,dash gauge holder, HKS downpipe and new AST. Will get the new muffler(RB dual tip), y pipe next year.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Honestly, for a black base model, that's a screamin' deal right now even with 102k. All black interior is killer, and I think those cloth seats are the best stock seats. I bet the motor makes it to 150k if you treat it nice and don't pump up the power.

rowdog_14

Thanks, I figured it was a great deal seeing all the prices of the cars over the last few years and this year. He was wanting to open a business and this was the only car he was will to part with to gain some quick cash. He had a good selection of cars but I do not think I would have sold this one.




Everyone I just ordered a Efini Y-Pipe with crossover . Man you can drop money on this thing quick lol. Seriously done for the next few months or year. Will get the RB exhaust next year and that will be the cherry on top for me. Now to get all the other fluids/vacuum lines and hopefully have everything done next week while I am on vacation

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

Good for you man, great find.

eslai

Wow I have been going so slow on my car. It's bone stock still for all mechanicals and I've had it for a year. I have a swaintech-coated HKS downpipe that I have yet to install. My plan is to do that, then a Koyo n-flow radiator, then a racing beat exhaust. Probably a PowerFC at that point and I figure I'm done.

Good luck with yours!

bajaman

Okay, while I think I understand the INTENT here...your statement frankly is indicative of what happens far too many times when novices/people with no experience attempt to "build" an engine. To say, "build it regardless of any advice" is a bit of a misnomer...one should ALWAYS use GOOD advice, gleaned from real-world experience, to help ensure the success of the build, i.e. not waste money or possibly destroy the engine. Otherwise why even subscribe to a forum?