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Is there an adapter or something else needed when upgrading to the unortho. main pully? It was my understanding when I bought it that it is simply "bolt-on" but it's missing what my mechanic calls the "crank trigger wheel." Help!

I'm finally getting my car put back together but we keep running into stupid stuff like this!!!!!!!!

rotorbrain

just put your old ones back on and give the UO pullies to me. haha. i thought the stock trigger wheel was used.

paul

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HAHAHAHAHAHAHA.....um.......NOOOO!

That's what I thought, but apparently not. My mech. says the holes don't line up. Guess I'll double check with him but in the mean time any other feedback would be mucho appreciated!

rotorbrain

i know a guy that has one. . . ill try to get in touch with him about it.

paul

Wargasm

I do have the UO main pulley and it bolts right on there.... try not to insult your mechanic when you tell him this, but if I recall correctly the 4 holes are in a staggered pattern to prevent people from putting the trigger on backwards or at the wrong angle... have him flip it around a few different ways and I think it should line up....

Brian

cournal

it fits trust me. i just put mine on a couple of months ago. you will need a new belt also.

Jason

iTrader: (5)

You use the old crank wheel. You also have to remove the main eccentric shaft bolt to install that pulley. It does not bolt on the sameway the stock pulley does.

Jason

FDnutt

All you mech needs to do is rotate the "crank trigger wheel" till the holes line up. It will only go one way. Just put mine on a couple of days ago.

FDnutt

Also, I hope your mech. followed the directions......has to put pressure on the back of the ecentric shaft before removing the main pulley, if not could be problems

Mr. Stock

Be vewy vewy careful.
It is easy to cause major engine trouble when installing the main pulley. When the main eccentric shaft bolt is taken off, it is very easy to displace one of the bearings on the eccentric shaft. This will require the engine to be pulled and dismantled to correct.


It sounds like your mechanic is not the right person to install the main pulley.

rotoryspeeddreamz

Time to find a new mechanic, because it fits fine. You will need new belts though because there is slight under driving, pulleys should come with a reference number as to what they think the correct belt sizes are.

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okay, i'm shitting a small brick right now, but my mechanic has not given me any reason to freak about his work so i'm hoping he secured the eccentric shaft. he's prepping it to be put in the car still, and he's done this before, just not with an unorthodox pulley.

but now i'm wondering how much of an issue the underdrive may be with my alternator/electrical system. i've already had problems in the past with a weak system and had to add a ground strap to stop my car from bucking under light throttle, and my concern is that if the alternator is "underdriven" enough this PITA problem will come roaring back. those of you who have switched, have you noticed a major difference in voltage? i'm running a couple amps for my stereo as well.....

thanks for all the feedback everyone!

Tomco78

I've been running the full Unorthodox pulley-kit for about a year now, never had any problems.

You have to ask your mechanic if he did the job the right way. Changing to the Unorthodox pulley is a lot more difficult than with other aftermarket pulleys.
If he mess it up, it can result in significant damage to your engine!

Trexthe3rd

Ummm, I hate to say this but, in order to even see the holes and try to align the timing wheel to the UO main pulley, the stock main pulley has to be removed first. If it is in fact removed and there is no constant applied forward pressure to the e-shaft, there is a very good chance the Torrington or needle bearings are already misaligned (unless the engine is outside of the car and sitting on the flywheel).

Trexthe3rd

Unless you are running a high powered stereo system (>500w RMS) you don't have to worry about it. If you are audio ****, just get a 1F capacitor and you'll have all the peak power you need.

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Yeah, right now I'm praying to the car gods he had the engine sitting on the flywheel. I'll keep you posted....

es

Well, if the engine is out of the car it's not that hard to tear the front open & re-align the needle bearings & spacers. If he's an experienced rotary engine builder then he'll know what's going on as the same problems can occur during assy of the stock front hub.

Also, if the engines out of the car that would mean it's probably just been rebuilt. If this is the case then there would be no reason to put the stock front hub back in. Just install the UR hub/pulley in it's place (unless you've got a Mazda re-man)...