coop

Ok, I am trying to get a handle of what exactly needs to happen...
With the flywheel pushed toward the front of the car (hard) it will hold the bearing, then the main pully can be untorqued (with an impact driver) and removed. Then the new (replacement) main pully will be slid onto the escentric shaft (does the pully fit around the shaft?) and then the bolts can be torqued down.
My question is, are you past the 'critical point' with the bearing once the pully is simply slid onto the shaft, or is it unsafe until the main pully has the bolts hand tight... or is it only safe once they are torqued down?
Thanks ahead of time!

Rex-VII-FD3S

I would play it safe and hold the flywheel until its torqued down. on a small note it takes a good impact to pull that bitch off we tried a 250lb 1/4" matco and a cheap 250lb 1/2" at 120 psi and that didnt do **** so we had to do it the old fashion way. Breaker bars are a god send. But a good ingersol rand 650lb 1/2" should loosen that thing right up. It might also be a good idea to put some lock tight on the bolt for good measure and i believe the service man. call for it to be torqued to 180lbs. correct me if im wrong.

TomsRX7

Here is the way I would do it: go ahead and slightly loosen the pulley bolt, just break it loose, but not much more than that. You don't have to push the flywheel until then. So after you break the bolt loose and your ready, THEN hold the flywheel forward, loosen it the rest of the way, pull it off, put the new one on, and tighten it as much as you can before letting off the flywheel. And yes, the pulley fits around the eccentric shaft, like a puzzy around a dik.

-Tom

coop

Oooohh, now I get it!
Thanks Tom!
I have my pully set on the way, and it was a wonderful excuse to invest in my phumatic tools!!! (Ingersoll is on the way!)

7-sins

You might want to get the red lock tight and have a friend hold the flywheel. The ingersoll rand 2131A is the impact gun that should do the trick 600ft/lbs in reverse. I want to pick up one but I have higher things on the list like a 99 spec lip, optima batter, tein suspention, ect.

Good luck man,
Chris

TomsRX7

COOP, you're welcome. As for putting red LockTite on there, I wouldn't even think of it. I've built many engines and I'll never forget one of them: the bolt was seized on there. I bought a black socket, the ones that are made of a harder metal, made to be used on air guns. I was using a 6 foot pipe extension to get leverage on my breaker bar and I ended up breaking 3 sockets. Luckily I bought them at Sears and they kept replacing them for free. The Sears employee couldn't believe I was breaking them. So anyhow, blue LockTite is all I would dare put on there. However, my buddy who builds the engines at Mazdatrix, he saw how I put the blue LockTite on my upper intake manifold bolts and he was laughing at me, said I was going overboard and didn't need to do all that.

coop

Ok I am confused...I may need someone to spell this out for me...
I have all the pullys installed but the main drive. Looking at the pully, the bolts are on the backside...how exactly does this install?? The Drive pully has bolts on the font side (the one on the car still)
I got the set used (but not installed previously) so I don't have instructions.
Also if anyone has the belt numbers I need handy that would be great, other wise don't worry about it, I can find them somewhere I am sure.
Thanks!

coop

Do the belts the UR site recommends work with our cars? They said sizes used may vary slightly...
They recommend K050530 for manual trans Alt & airpump, and k6060400 for the P/S and A/c...
What belt should be used with this kit if AC is removed?
Thanks
-Dave

TomsRX7

Here is Unorthodox's page that show the step by step instructions: http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/inst...-7%2093-95.doc

coop

Thanks!
Anyone have any info about a belt size for when the A/C is removed...Also, off topic, but maybe I am searching for the wrong thing but I havn't been able to locate any sort of write up on A/C removal...Does Rob Robinette have a write up and I just couldn't find it??
Is it as simple as just un-bolting the components and removing the pipes, heat exchanger, and compressor?
My AC currently doesn't work...it may just need to be recharged, but it has never worked anyway...and since this is not going to be a daily driver anymore, I am getting rid of it.
I searched this site, and the RX7 forum on Yahoo (for 'A/C removal' and 'A/C remove')...the only thing I found was someone asking if it caused problems, and someone else saying the removal was easy, and it didn't cause problems.
I didn't want to start a whole new thread if there was lots out there my searches didn't turn up.
Thanks a head of time!

TomsRX7

As you know, Unorthodox does give you a belt number. If you do some research, part of that number is for the belt length, part of it is for how many ribs it has, and lastly, the belt width. So all you would have to do is run a string around all the pulleys (obvously the path the belt would take), mark it with a pen where the 2 ends of the string meet up, and then measure it. Then go to your nearest parts store with this info and you'll be all set. (The belt number is going to be the same EXCEPT for the digits that correspond to the belt length.

As for the A/C, I'm sure it would not cause a problem to simply remove everything. The only word of caution is that the system does have pressure in it so be careful when you disconnect the lines. To be LEGAL, you are NO supposed to empty the system pressure in to the air, you're supposed to drive the car somewhere and have them suck it out and put it in their container (it's bad for the ozone/atmosphere)

-Tom

coop

OH yea...legal...hummm...I will have to see about that
How much would some shop charge me to Suck my system!
Is the freon in liquid form? I started to loosen one of the bolts but some tan goo started to spray out...is it possible to remove the whole system with out unhooking it?

Thanks about the belt stuff, I had not realized that is what the numbers corresponded to, I can take it from there! (Just needed pointing in the right direction)

Once again, thanks for providing so much info, and being tolerant of my possibily ignorant questions

I think that is all the questions I have at this time...

-Dave

zkeller

iTrader: (47)

You definately need to torque the pulley nut to the proper specifications. The front pulley is so important to maintaining engine end-play. If it is not torqued properly you will throw off the end-play of the engine. If it is off .001" you could have problems with oil control,(makes the engine sloppy). I rebuild rotary engines and know this first-hand.

TomsRX7

No problem, you're welcome. As for removing the A/C system [b]without[/b} disconnecting the lines and losing pressure (and ofcourse spewing the refrigerant in to the atmospher), that is not possible. You are definitely going to have to release the system pressure either legaly by going to a local shop or illegally behind hour house

As for the proper torque on the front bolt, Zkeller is definitely on the money. If it's not torqued down to spec ft lbs, you are not going to return the end play to what it was already set to- not good.

Good luck dude.

-Tom

coop

I have a 6hp compressor and a Ingersoll-rand 2131A 1/2" impact wrench...is there a way to verify that I get it torqued down correctly?

If my A/C doesn't cool then could it be possibly that there is very little Freon left...Or could it just be the compressor?

Thanks!

YayeR

i don't recall anyone answering the question about what kind of difference can be felt with this modification.. and if minimal difference can be felt, then whats the real advantage?

TomsRX7

I wouldn't trust this to an air gun. It's gonna be pretty impossible to get it within the specified torque specs. From my experience, most guns won't get it tight enough, even with a pretty good size air compressor behind it. That's because most residential compressors only go 125PSI while service stations go up to 250PSI (or something like that). So it's not the HP of the compressor, it's the PSI.

Per the workshop manual, the one big bolt that holds on the main pulley needs to be torqued to 180-200 ft/lbs. The only way is with a good torque wrench and some strong muscles. A "back yard" method of holding the engine might be to have it in first gear and an assistant in the car stomping on the brakes.

TomsRX7

IMO, there is a noticable difference. The feeling is similar to having a lightened flywheel, but not as much. With a smaller eccentric shaft pulley, it's easier for the engine to drive the other components (water pump, alt, p/s pump, etc). Just think about when you ride a 10 speed bike. When the front sprocket is small, it's easy to peddle, but when the front sprocket is big, it's harder to peddle. As a matter of physics, it's because one revolution of the peddle moves the rear sprocket less when you have a smaller front sprocket; there's more leverage.