3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

Unhooked top air pump connector

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 09:08 PM
  #1  
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 823
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Unhooked top air pump connector

I just unhooked the connector (the one ontop of my airpump) i was just wondering if this is what the car would be like when the actual unit is out.

Things i noticed while driving,
Could smell a mild burning.. think this was the cat
I could actually hear my turbo spool more clearly
I did notice my idle was a bit sloppy
and when my car started up it stunk like hell lol probobly the extra fuel or something ?

ANyways was just wondering if unhooking the black connector at the top and driving would be a good simulation as to waht to expect if the whole unit was removed.

Also i still had all the hoses hooked up... would this change anything once i remove all of the hoses?
Reply
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 09:10 PM
  #2  
Monsterbox's Avatar
Mazzei Formula
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,021
Likes: 145
From: Birmingham, Al
yes....most say no difference in performance, however ive noticed the car revv's faster...almost like a lightened flywheel affect

if you do run without the airpump, you have to set the idle up via the throttle body screw located behind the plastic elbow...u must remove the plastic elbow to see the large screw in the bottom right corner of the TB...set your idle up to at least 1250rpms and you are good to go
Reply
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 09:15 PM
  #3  
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 823
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Originally Posted by Monsterbox
yes....most say no difference in performance, however ive noticed the car revv's faster...almost like a lightened flywheel affect

if you do run without the airpump, you have to set the idle up via the throttle body screw located behind the plastic elbow...u must remove the plastic elbow to see the large screw in the bottom right corner of the TB...set your idle up to at least 1250rpms and you are good to go
Sweet any idea what that burning smell is ?
I really wanna get a mid pipe wat effect does the midpipe have in terms of performance?
Reply
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 09:18 PM
  #4  
Monsterbox's Avatar
Mazzei Formula
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,021
Likes: 145
From: Birmingham, Al
a hell of alot....30rwhp or more....enough that when you put in a midpipe alone on the stock boost solenoid system the car will instantly spike to 17psi and will creep up high in the rpms on boost

if you go to a midpipe make sure you either pull the boost solenoid plugs and run WG spring pressure 7psi IMHO ull end up with 8psi and this is faster than the stock 10 with a midpipe

buy a boost controller as the stock solenoids simply cant react fast enough to the new spool

and....when you get a chance port the wastegate..until then buy and exhaust flange for 2.5inch exhaust and stick it btw your midpipe and catback
Reply
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 09:21 PM
  #5  
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 823
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Originally Posted by Monsterbox
a hell of alot....30rwhp or more....enough that when you put in a midpipe alone on the stock boost solenoid system the car will instantly spike to 17psi and will creep up high in the rpms on boost

if you go to a midpipe make sure you either pull the boost solenoid plugs and run WG spring pressure 7psi IMHO ull end up with 8psi and this is faster than the stock 10 with a midpipe

buy a boost controller as the stock solenoids simply cant react fast enough to the new spool

and....when you get a chance port the wastegate..until then buy and exhaust flange for 2.5inch exhaust and stick it btw your midpipe and catback

So there is no way to control the boost just by watching the boost guage and throttling accordingly?
Reply
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 11:01 PM
  #6  
supraturbo1987's Avatar
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 20 Years
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
From: Yutan, Nebraska
not effectively or safely enough. If you are going at WOT, and in a split second, you can spike to 17psi and that is all it takes for your motor to go bye bye.

I have a 3" DP, gutted stock cat, hks carb ti and a stock airbox. I have the airpump disconnected and don't have the ACV either. I am thinking of getting a hi-flow cat to reduce the smell and the noise as well. I have heard of people running a hi flow cat without the airpump and not having a problem and I have heard of them melting....I haven't had any experience with either...

Trev
Reply
Old Jul 21, 2007 | 03:35 AM
  #7  
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 823
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Originally Posted by supraturbo1987
not effectively or safely enough. If you are going at WOT, and in a split second, you can spike to 17psi and that is all it takes for your motor to go bye bye.

I have a 3" DP, gutted stock cat, hks carb ti and a stock airbox. I have the airpump disconnected and don't have the ACV either. I am thinking of getting a hi-flow cat to reduce the smell and the noise as well. I have heard of people running a hi flow cat without the airpump and not having a problem and I have heard of them melting....I haven't had any experience with either...

Trev
so all i need is an aftermarket boost controler?
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
Jul 1, 2023 04:40 PM
Skeese
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
65
Mar 28, 2017 03:30 PM
c0rpse
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
1
Aug 25, 2015 11:50 PM
86glxNA
New Member RX-7 Technical
7
Aug 22, 2015 08:54 PM
12abridgeport
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
2
Aug 17, 2015 06:28 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:05 AM.